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80k mi service - big ticket items

T

TiCoyote

Ready to race!
I have a 2012 GTI with around 84k, so I guess it's past due. I'm trying to figure out what I should expect to spend. I know I need:
DSG flush and fluid: $350

Will I need brakes and rotors?
Spark plugs?
Coil packs?
Shocks?
Fuel filter?

It also vibrates at idle. Motor mounts?

This is starting to look like a $2k service? How much of this will I actually need?
 
gdub09

gdub09

Ready to race!
If you don't have any service history I'd do whats highest priority, DSG flush. I'd look at your brakes to see if you actually need them, same with shocks. If they're not leaking or hella bouncy, leave em. As for plugs, I'd do em but if your coil packs aren't giving you an issue I'd leave em alone. Fuel filter isn't really necessary but it's advised to change it every 20K.
 
estepnie

estepnie

Ready to race!
1ashchuckton

1ashchuckton

Autocross Champion
Plugs, fuel filter & DSG service. If it has been over two years since the last brake fluid flush add that to the list. Is it time for an oil change? If so add that to your list. Your brakes may or not be OK, inspect them.
 
zrickety

zrickety

The Fixer
I've got almost double your mileage...never spent anywhere near 2k on service. You can do the DSG service cheaper, shop around. My brakes and rotors looked fine past 100k. Spark plugs are a good idea, I run Denso double platinum at $4-5 each. Coils I would wait, shocks I would wait. Fuel filter is easy and cheap. A dogbone mount like HPA or 034 would go a long way with vibration and reduce wheel hop.
 
A

andrewd

New member
You are definitely due (well overdue for DSG service and plugs) if they have never been done. Now some other things that would be smart to do would be to replace the coils, PCV valve (these are known to take out the rear main seal when they fail), check to see which timing chain tensioner the vehicle has, and possibly a carbon cleaning. I’d be more inclined to get those items straightened out before looking into mounts and shocks/struts. Hard to say whether you need brakes but I’m still all original on mine after 84k as well with plenty of life.
 
Q

QuitersLOSE14

Ready to race!
Why do y’all ask about this stuff? It’s laid out in plain Engrish in our owners manual? Server space wasted.


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Q

QuitersLOSE14

Ready to race!
Brakes are easy, look inside the wheel at the pads and see how close they are to the metal backing. Some cars have wear sensors too. I’m over 100K miles and have only done rear pads and rotors. Look for crappy looking discs too, could mean uneven wear, or debris caught in between the pad and rotor. Of course, you can’t tell squat about the backsides like this.

Mounts (all inclusive) don’t really need done unless they fail, or unless you want “tight as new” back at 84k. I’m considering anti-walk kits from SuperPro or Whiteline (I like their elastomer better) as I’m staring to get vagueness over the road now. Remember, anything higher in density (higher durometer ratings) will make noise, vibration and harshness (NVH) worse, typically. Increasing NVH decrease reliability. We humans don’t do so good with increased shaking either.

I have a TDI so I can’t comment on coils, but that’s likely in the manual. Once again, replace when they fail; and you’ll know when they fail lol. If you’re tuned, maybe look at upgrades.

Otherwise, all these other fine folk have brought up good points!


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