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Tony's Black GTI

Tony48

Go Kart Champion
Oil Pan install
Finally got around to dropping and installing a new oil pan. Good news is that there was no metal to be found from the cam bridge screen (magnetic drain plug did a good job catching everything). Everything else looked good as well, pickup was clean, no sludge or any other issues.

https://flic.kr/p/2eNQaFp

https://flic.kr/p/24cmd74

https://flic.kr/p/R3rJyF

Blown Tire leads to future modifications...
I blew a tire thanks to a giant pot hole. Luckily Tire Rack's road hazard program will cover the price of a new Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+, and my wheel wasn't bent. The bad news is that something got tweaked and my steering wheel is slightly off center. So it's time for another alignment despite just having one done a month and a half ago :mad0259:. Since I have to get an alignment I figured now's the time to do a bit of an overhaul. New ball joints, tie rod ends, and a few fun goodies like this which came in the mail yesterday:

https://flic.kr/p/24cmdCK
 

Tony48

Go Kart Champion
I finally got all the parts together. I'll be dropping the subframe and installing everything sometime next week.
  • VWR Subframe Mount
  • Eibach Sway Bars (26mm Front & 23mm Rear)
  • Greasable Poly Bushings/Brackets for rear sway bar -- Energy Suspension
  • Teflon lined bushings for front sway bar -- H&R
  • Adjustable Rear Sway Bar Endlinks -- ECS
  • Aluminum Control Arms powder coated -- B6 Passat fitment
  • Ball Joints -- Lemforder
  • Outer Tie Rod Ends -- Lemforder
  • A huge bag of hardware (damn TTY bolts)

https://flic.kr/p/2eZVJ1E

https://flic.kr/p/SM9amY

https://flic.kr/p/24t5PZn

Here's a shot of the control arms masked with hi-temp tape and ready for a coat of powder. Hard to see in the photos but the base coat is a dark gray with metallic flake and then an 85% gloss clear coat. This was a practice run for the color scheme I'll be doing my OZ Ultraleggeras (as soon as I build a large powder coat oven). Powder purchased from Prismatic Powder - colors are Crystal Grey and Clear Vision.

https://flic.kr/p/2dPm3rf

https://flic.kr/p/2dYBhBf
 
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Tony48

Go Kart Champion
Big photo dump of work done over the past two evenings. The subframe dropped out easily and I opted to support the steering rack rather than disconnect the steering linkage. Some wire and a jackstand made for a janky but adequate support.











I got to work removing the subframe bushings. A few slits with the air saw and the bushings came out easily with a drift/hammer and pry bar. I followed up with a bath in the parts washer to remove 8 years of road grime.














The VWR subframe bushings pressed in easily with the help of a hydraulic press and a piece of steel tubing to correctly direct the force.





It wasn't until reinstall that I realized I pressed in the upper bushing in an incorrect orientation. I assumed the machined notch for swaybar clearance was supposed to line up with the notch in the subframe. It actually needs to be about 180* away. See photos for incorrect and correct orientation. Since I had a spare subframe laying around from a junkyard visit I opted to notch the subframe to remove the bushings. The bushings made it through the process with only a few superficial scratches. I quadruple checked the new orientation with the sway bar mocked up and pressed the bushings into the spare subframe.

I wasn't happy that I had to destroy a subframe after my mistake. I was also a bit frustrated that there weren't any instructions with the VWR mounts to make the orientation a bit more evident. Ultimately the mistake was my own fault and I'm just glad that I had a spare subframe and was able to correct the issue.





























With the subframe sorted I got to work on the ball joints and tie rod ends. I pulled the axle bolts and disconnected the axle from the bearing housings to get the clearance for the ball joints. Both ball joints and tie rod ends were freed up easily and popped apart with the correct puller.








Next task was to swap over the poly bushings from my front control arms to the aluminum control arms. Getting the inner bushings of the ALK off the control arms proved to be quite difficult because of the rust and gunk creating friction. Once apart all the bushings got a good cleaning with water & dish soap and re-greased with silicon before reassembly.








No pictures of reassembling the subframe and bolting it up to the car since it was a pain to get everything lined up. The subframe spacer kit is great and I'm glad I have it but it definitely makes it dififcult to line everything up and get the bolts started. Everything went back together with new TTY bolts and got torqued to spec.











Moving on, I pulled the rear sway bar and end links. This was cake compared to the front. Install was quick and the Energy Suspension bushings/brackets fit well. We'll see how the ECS end links hold up. They seem well made and I purchased them since they're cheap and the front pair has held up well (so far).











Lastly I adjusted my coilovers up so I'm sitting at 25" ftg. I'm tired of the rough ride and scraping when I have passengers in the car. Hella functional > Hella low :23:. I've got an alignment scheduled for next week at a local Indy shop. On my quick test drive the car handled amazing. I made so many changes that it's hard to take them all in but the sway bars definitely made a huge handling difference. The VWR subframe mount added some vibration at idle but I think it will calm down a bit and it's really not too bad as-is. However, the car shifts like a dream now--the shifter feels incredibly locked in. The coilovers handled a few big bumps and expansion joints with noticeably more grace than previously. I think 25" ftg is the sweet spot for ride quality with ST coilovers. More impressions to follow when I get an alignment and some seat time.
 
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torga

Autocross Champion
Excellent work, man!! I love seeing clean subframes and suspension components - it's like forbidden pleasures :laugh:
 

hbrown0509

Go Kart Champion
The VWR subframe does settle after sometime and is barely noticeable. Mainly when the AC is on or reversing. I feel like it mostly comes from the ECS Tuning pendulum mount as vibrations weren’t bad at all until I added that into the mix. I have to ask though, can the VWR upper and lower mount not be removed without destroying the subframe?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Tony48

Go Kart Champion
Excellent work, man!! I love seeing clean subframes and suspension components - it's like forbidden pleasures :laugh:
I appreciate it!
The VWR subframe does settle after sometime and is barely noticeable. Mainly when the AC is on or reversing. I feel like it mostly comes from the ECS Tuning pendulum mount as vibrations weren’t bad at all until I added that into the mix. I have to ask though, can the VWR upper and lower mount not be removed without destroying the subframe?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Good to hear about the VWR mount settling it. Actually, your comments about this setup in another thread are what convinced me to purchase both the ECS pendulum mount and the VWR subframe mount!

They're a press fit and very tight. No way they will come out without a hydraulic press and even pressure on the outer alloy ring. Since they're inserted from the top and bottom it makes it impossible to press back apart. Okay, maybe not impossible...maybe I could have engineered something to slip in between the mounts to distribute the force to the outer edges of the alloy ring and then used a bolt to press through the hole in the mount but it would have been really, really difficult.

Hopefully someone learns from my mistake.
 
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hbrown0509

Go Kart Champion
I appreciate it!

Good to hear about the VWR mount settling it. Actually, your comments about this setup in another thread are what convinced me to purchase both the ECS pendulum mount and the VWR subframe mount!

They're a press fit and very tight. No way they will come out without a hydraulic press and even pressure on the outer alloy ring. Since they're inserted from the top and bottom it makes it impossible to press back apart. Okay, maybe not impossible...maybe I could have engineered something to slip in between the mounts to distribute the force to the outer edges of the alloy ring and then used a bolt to press through the hole in the mount but it would have been really, really difficult.

Hopefully someone learns from my mistake.



Glad to hear my comments helped your decision making! So far my ECS mount has been working well. Man that’s crazy to think about in terms of removing them. Didn’t think they would be near permanent of an install! Glad it worked out for ya in the end and enjoy the setup. Give it at least 500 miles or so. NVH should start diminishing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

BringerOdeath

Ready to race!
Oh man! Awesome install! The powder coated control arms look awesome! I am now tempted to pull mine and powder coat them red..... I think you may have solved an Issue I have with my subframe mount! I never aligned the slot in the right place. I have been trying to figure out some rattle over bumps which I could not find the cause of! I have this one: https://www.uspmotorsports.com/Vibra-Technics-SubframeMount-Road-MK5-6.html.

plus my really thick Hotchkis Front and rear 27mm sway bars......

I have to replace my steering rack this weekend, so I have to take the sub frame off and will do this. I have taken the sub frame mount out without having to cut my sub frame before, Thank god!

I installed some SPM exhaust I bought from a buddy that decided to switch to track only exhaust since his car is for Autocross only. Got those KW electronic damper coilovers installed, but have not fully finished all the wiring yet..... UGHHH. Too busy!


Did you get the door modules for the mirror dip? I picked up the 8 sensor pla 2.0 park assist kit. Will probably install next month! :)
 

Tony48

Go Kart Champion
Oh man! Awesome install! The powder coated control arms look awesome! I am now tempted to pull mine and powder coat them red..... I think you may have solved an Issue I have with my subframe mount! I never aligned the slot in the right place. I have been trying to figure out some rattle over bumps which I could not find the cause of! I have this one: https://www.uspmotorsports.com/Vibra-Technics-SubframeMount-Road-MK5-6.html.

plus my really thick Hotchkis Front and rear 27mm sway bars......

I have to replace my steering rack this weekend, so I have to take the sub frame off and will do this. I have taken the sub frame mount out without having to cut my sub frame before, Thank god!

I installed some SPM exhaust I bought from a buddy that decided to switch to track only exhaust since his car is for Autocross only. Got those KW electronic damper coilovers installed, but have not fully finished all the wiring yet..... UGHHH. Too busy!


Did you get the door modules for the mirror dip? I picked up the 8 sensor pla 2.0 park assist kit. Will probably install next month! :)
As far as the subframe puck goes, after further research I believe the notch is there to line up with the notch on the subframe for 4wd cars. However, it works well for clearance in 2wd applications the way I have it oriented. Check yours and let us know!

Sounds like you've got a lot of unfinished projects going on just like me haha. I still haven't purchased the correct door modules or messed with mirror dip stuff....also been busy with life.

Why are you replacing your steering rack?
 

Francoleon91

Drag Racing Champion
omggg dude.. I can see myself installing those VWR pucks in my driveway, under my car.. installing them the wrong way, realizing they were on wrong and then thinking to myself im FUCKED, literally. id probably cry.

Edit: NVM lol. the subframe NEEDS to be off to put on both pucks. but still..
 

BringerOdeath

Ready to race!
As far as the subframe puck goes, after further research I believe the notch is there to line up with the notch on the subframe for 4wd cars. However, it works well for clearance in 2wd applications the way I have it oriented. Check yours and let us know!

Sounds like you've got a lot of unfinished projects going on just like me haha. I still haven't purchased the correct door modules or messed with mirror dip stuff....also been busy with life.

Why are you replacing your steering rack?

Chasing that noise! My rack has always had some noise, but the all the rattling over bumps when driving slow has been driving me insane. It isn't my struts because I had the same sound with my old ones and all my bushings are relatively new and super pro brand. I got one off a 34k mile 2015 turbo bettle for 100 bucks.... then I saw your orientation pics...... UGHHHH! LOL
 

zef

Drag Racing Champion
Reading this I totally just realized I've been driving around with my VWR pucks in the incorrect orientation for over a year lol. I guess since I've been running pretty close to stock sway bar size (24mm) it hasn't made any noise.
 

Tony48

Go Kart Champion
Chasing that noise! My rack has always had some noise, but the all the rattling over bumps when driving slow has been driving me insane. It isn't my struts because I had the same sound with my old ones and all my bushings are relatively new and super pro brand. I got one off a 34k mile 2015 turbo bettle for 100 bucks.... then I saw your orientation pics...... UGHHHH! LOL
Hopefully switching the puck orientation solves the issue! If there is contact between sway bar and puck I would think you would be able to see some marring on the sway bar. Might give you a clue to what's up.
Reading this I totally just realized I've been driving around with my VWR pucks in the incorrect orientation for over a year lol. I guess since I've been running pretty close to stock sway bar size (24mm) it hasn't made any noise.
I'm not 100% sure what the "correct" orientation is for the puck since it didn't come with detailed instructions but as you can see from the pictures it is damn close when I mocked up a 26mm sway bar. I really didn't want to pull the puck out to reorient it but I would kick myself if I was getting clunking like BringerOdeath and knew it could be the puck!

I guess the alternate option if you already have the puck installed "incorrectly" is to unbolt the sway bar and hit the top of the puck with a die grinder or dremel to create a little clearance. I don't see that being an issue if you're only shaving down 1-2" around the circumference.

By the way, I've been following along the bodywork in your build thread and hot damn it looks fantastic. Something to aspire to!
 

zef

Drag Racing Champion
I guess the alternate option if you already have the puck installed "incorrectly" is to unbolt the sway bar and hit the top of the puck with a die grinder or dremel to create a little clearance. I don't see that being an issue if you're only shaving down 1-2" around the circumference.

By the way, I've been following along the bodywork in your build thread and hot damn it looks fantastic. Something to aspire to!



Thanks man! I'll have to check for rub marks. Either I'll do that or wedge some foam tape in there haha
 
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