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DIY Clutch Replacement: Lessons Learned

NewToVW

NewToVW

Automotive Ninja
XGC75 said:
Why doesnt this get more attention?? Really glad zrickety dug this up. Best clutch DIY I've seen so far.
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Hey thanks!

Re-reading things I wrote. I'd probably just take the dp off completely if I were to do it again.

Also, not sure I was clear enough - do NOT use the transmission bolts to pull the tx back onto the engine. You've got to get it back up on the pins with no mechanical help. This is hard. You need to rotate the output flange a little to get the splines to align (which you can't see) and keep wiggling things and have the shaft dead nuts straight to the clutch disc. It is frustrating, but when it's all correct, it just jumps into place on the pins. Then tighten the bolts.
 
P

Psycodrew

New member
Ok, u gave this a shot, you do not need to remove the passenger cv but absolutely do yourself a favor and drop the damn sub frame there is no way to get it out otherwise that I can see
 
V

vwgti2.0t

Go Kart Champion
Psycodrew said:
Ok, u gave this a shot, you do not need to remove the passenger cv but absolutely do yourself a favor and drop the damn sub frame there is no way to get it out otherwise that I can see
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I've had my trans out 3 times, and 2-3 out of other mk6's. You absolutely do not need to drop the subframe. Take the axles out and the output flanges off, twist the back end of the trans up and pull it out. It's not hard at all. I can have this trans out in under an hour moving at a semi-steady pace. To get the flanges back in, use a prybar (off of what I can't remember) until they fully seat and then stick a bolt in. It can be done easily by yourself.
 
GTIProject

GTIProject

Ready to race!
Just did mine at my shop today. Total time was 6 hours, but I was kinda feeling the job out.

I removed the subframe, because I honestly didn't want to deal with the hassle of man handling a 400lb trans. I already had the new bolts, and it took no time at all to remove.

A little tip, if you remove the subframe - disconnect the sway bar from both drop links before you try to bolt the sway bar back to the subframe. It makes it much easier.
 
T

tmacmact

Passed Driver's Ed
newtovw said:
Navigating it out should be pretty easy with the subframe and LCA out of the way. Once you get enough room from the passenger axle, you can also remove the passenger side output flange from the differential. This little bugger will hang up on the back of the flywheel if you don't. It's a 6mm hex key. Be sure you're angling the flange upward because you're now breaking into the transmission fluid and it could spill.
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Did you have any fluid come out? I heard it's a "dry" diff but I can't see the diff working without fluid.
 
FLtrooper

FLtrooper

Go Kart Champion
lasesking said:
Instead of the engine support bar. Wouldnt a engine lift (cherry picker) work just as well?
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Of course and You could even use a jack and block of wood under the oil pan. The support bar free's up some space. The legs of a cherry picker would be in the way and could make things very hard!

:)
 
privman

privman

Ready to race!
Thinking about attempting this. If I don't drain fluid and drop sub frame do I need to bleed anything out?
 
nvturbo

nvturbo

Go Kart Champion
lasesking said:
Instead of the engine support bar. Wouldnt a engine lift (cherry picker) work just as well?
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A Cherry picker will get in the way. Remember that the rolling feet will be right underneath the car. That's where most of your work is at.





privman said:
Thinking about attempting this. If I don't drain fluid and drop sub frame do I need to bleed anything out?
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No.
 
nvturbo

nvturbo

Go Kart Champion
privman, why are you getting those subframe bolts? Dropping the subframe is NOT NECESSARY.
 
privman

privman

Ready to race!
They say it's easier. I don't want to damage the stuff putting it back in
 
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