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Tony's Black GTI

BringerOdeath

Ready to race!
Awesome Tony! Glad you were able to end up golden on the caliper repair! I don't have the tools so I would have to send the caliper out for repair. Looks good! I had to use a 5mm spacer when I had the 17z calipers and it was still CLOSE!
 

Tony48

Go Kart Champion
OK awesome thanks for the info I just picked up some 986 calipers off ebay. so im starting my rebuild on them now.

Best of luck! Let me know if you need any help tracking down parts. It was a bit difficult for me to find new seals.

Awesome Tony! Glad you were able to end up golden on the caliper repair! I don't have the tools so I would have to send the caliper out for repair. Looks good! I had to use a 5mm spacer when I had the 17z calipers and it was still CLOSE!

I was really surprised when my OZ's didn't clear the brakes. I've ordered a set of custom 6mm spacers from Motorsport tech which should give me plenty of clearance and be wheel centric (56.1mm center bore to 75mm OZ centerbore). The 10mm spacers are too agressive for my spring setup and I'm rubbing on turns.
 

BringerOdeath

Ready to race!
Best of luck! Let me know if you need any help tracking down parts. It was a bit difficult for me to find new seals.



I was really surprised when my OZ's didn't clear the brakes. I've ordered a set of custom 6mm spacers from Motorsport tech which should give me plenty of clearance and be wheel centric (56.1mm center bore to 75mm OZ centerbore). The 10mm spacers are too agressive for my spring setup and I'm rubbing on turns.

The funny Thing is that if I had gone with the 18z caliper or TTRS calipers from the beginning, I wouldn't have needed spacers since the larger rotor pushed the caliper outwards towards the wheel barrel, clearing the spokes with plenty of room
 

Tony48

Go Kart Champion
The funny Thing is that if I had gone with the 18z caliper or TTRS calipers from the beginning, I wouldn't have needed spacers since the larger rotor pushed the caliper outwards towards the wheel barrel, clearing the spokes with plenty of room

Same deal here. The back of the wheel spoke only touches the edge of the caliper closest to the hub. If the rotors were bigger on this kit I would clear without an issue. Had I known this I probably would have gone with a TTRS kit from the beginning. Oh well, hopefully the new spacers give me the clearance I need and prevent fender rubbing.
 

BudgetPhoenix

Autocross Champion
Hi Tony, quick question. When you were trying to get the timing marks to line up (mostly) where you turning the crank over with the pulley removed and the spacer and bolt installed? Just worried about the sprocket slipping if I tried this.
 

Tony48

Go Kart Champion
Hi Tony, quick question. When you were trying to get the timing marks to line up (mostly) where you turning the crank over with the pulley removed and the spacer and bolt installed? Just worried about the sprocket slipping if I tried this.

I did a small amount of turning with just the spacer and bolt installed. Whenever I needed to turn the crank more than 1/4 turn or so, I put the crank pulley and bolt back on (just hand tight). It only takes a few seconds to throw the pulley on so I figured better safe than sorry.

You working on a timing job right now?
 

Tony48

Go Kart Champion
Thanks for the response. I have all my parts and tools in and ill be starting this friday or next friday.

Good luck! Post here or send me a PM if you have any questions. The job is still pretty fresh in my mind. Make sure you have a short triple square for the motor mount bracket or you'll get stuck pretty quickly.
 

BudgetPhoenix

Autocross Champion
Good luck! Post here or send me a PM if you have any questions. The job is still pretty fresh in my mind. Make sure you have a short triple square for the motor mount bracket or you'll get stuck pretty quickly.

Yep got one of the short 12mm bits that have a 10mm hex bottom! Also bought a very stubby 12mm that fits a 3/8 if it makes it easier.
 

Tony48

Go Kart Champion
Did you have any issues getting the cam bridge back on? Mine doesnt seem to want to go back on at all.

Yeah mine was tough to line up and push on. I ended up putting a tiny bit of oil where it was binding and *VERY* gently tapping it on with a small hammer. Make sure you tap slowly and move the hammer around so it goes on evenly.

Probably not the best thing to do but it worked for me.
 

Tony48

Go Kart Champion
I'm wrapping up install of the following items:

-ST X Coilovers
-Powerflex Front Control Arm Rear Position Poly Bushings (ALK)
-SuperPro Front Control Arm Front Position Poly Bushings
-ECS Tuning Front Subframe Locking Collar Kit

-All new rubber/mounts (front/rear top mounts, strut bearings, coil spring isolators, etc.)
-I spent a small fortune on all new hardware (most of the stuff taken out was TTY anyway)

I had no problem installing the coilovers, pulling the control arms, or dropping the subframe. Install went smoothly with the exception of the lower locking collars at the control arm brackets. The Powerflex brackets have a recessed spot for the bolt where the OEM bracket is flat (I assume because of the geometry change that the brackets provide). I sanded down the outside of the bushing so it would fit in the bracket recess but the mounting hole in the Powerflex bracket is elongated so the collar doesn't really do anything anyways. For this reason I decided not to use the lower bushing at the control arm brackets. I have the top one in place and I think that's the important one.

I also noted that one of the four bolts that goes up through the subframe into the steering rack was missing. I'm not sure if there are multiple steering rack part revisions/designs, but my steering rack does not extend over that hole, so there's nowhere to thread the bolt into. Weird but I'm not going to worry about it since it's been that way and hasn't hurt anything.

I also decided to use some rust encapsulator paint at a few spots on the front & rear control arms, and rear subframe. They were beginning to look pretty rough with flaking paint & rust spots. Eventually I'll pull all 4 control arms and powder coat them. If I'm feeling particularly bored then I'll drop both the front & rear subframe and powder coat those as well!

Anyway, enjoy the pics and I'll update with my driving impressions after I get the car aligned next week. I will say that I took a short test drive and am VERY impressed with the control arm bushings.

Full Flickr Album here and select pics below:












 
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GoodTimesIndeed

Go Kart Champion
Looking good man! You'll love those Powerflex bushings.
 

BringerOdeath

Ready to race!
I'm wrapping up install of the following items:

-ST X Coilovers
-Powerflex Front Control Arm Rear Position Poly Bushings (ALK)
-SuperPro Front Control Arm Front Position Poly Bushings
-ECS Tuning Front Subframe Locking Collar Kit

-All new rubber/mounts (front/rear top mounts, strut bearings, coil spring isolators, etc.)
-I spent a small fortune on all new hardware (most of the stuff taken out was TTY anyway)

I had no problem installing the coilovers, pulling the control arms, or dropping the subframe. Install went smoothly with the exception of the lower locking collars at the control arm brackets. The Powerflex brackets have a recessed spot for the bolt where the OEM bracket is flat (I assume because of the geometry change that the brackets provide). I sanded down the outside of the bushing so it would fit in the bracket recess but the mounting hole in the Powerflex bracket is elongated so the collar doesn't really do anything anyways. For this reason I decided not to use the lower bushing at the control arm brackets. I have the top one in place and I think that's the important one.

I also noted that one of the four bolts that goes up through the subframe into the steering rack was missing. I'm not sure if there are multiple steering rack part revisions/designs, but my steering rack does not extend over that hole, so there's nowhere to thread the bolt into. Weird but I'm not going to worry about it since it's been that way and hasn't hurt anything.

I also decided to use some rust encapsulator paint at a few spots on the front & rear control arms, and rear subframe. They were beginning to look pretty rough with flaking paint & rust spots. Eventually I'll pull all 4 control arms and powder coat them. If I'm feeling particularly bored then I'll drop both the front & rear subframe and powder coat those as well!

Anyway, enjoy the pics and I'll update with my driving impressions after I get the car aligned next week. I will say that I took a short test drive and am VERY impressed with the control arm bushings.

Full Flickr Album here and select pics below:













Awesome man!!!!! I have the super pro mount and I didn't have an issue with the 34 MS collars I have, since the super pro one is flush like oem. I just recently got a set of the upper bushings from super pro, so I would have to have the oem TT ones pressed out. I noticed a HUGE difference in in steering, although I switched to aluminum Passat spindles and Audi TT control arms at the same time. Instead of powder coating, etc, I would suggest going the alum spindles and control arm route if rust is an issue for you. :)

We have single piece Passat/TT alum subframe instead of the 3 piece one we have and I may swap it in when I do my new strut mounts/bearings next week. Also, you can get the alum rear subframe for the A3 as well....

I got my key fob folding module and everything coded correctly. My windows, sunroof, and mirrors close when I hold the lock button on my FOB. Now I have 2 door modules for folding mirrors, mirror dip, etc. I rewired my old side mirrors for mirror dip and oem puddle lights. I have the fold motors for a cabrio golf sitting around as well, I will probably give them to the person that buys the mirrors. they may have better luck disassembling the cabrio mirrors to swap the folding motors....
 

Tony48

Go Kart Champion
Finished up the coilover install. My kit didn't ship with rear dust boots or bump stops. KW was kind enough to ship them to me 2 day. So I got the rears installed which wraps up installation of everything. Then I took the car out for a test drive and 2 mins later a deer jumped out at me. I swerved around it (thanks powerflex bushings for the great steering response :thumbsup:) but it managed to slightly swipe my right rear door. You can see a clean mark from the center of the door to the wheel where he got me, and a small scratch. Oh well, it could have been much worse--just one more thing to fix before I wrap my car. In the meantime I'll give the springs a little more time to settle and fine tune my ride height before I get an alignment.








*SOME* of the hardware that was replaced during this work:






Looking good man! You'll love those Powerflex bushings.

Thanks! They seem pretty fantastic so far. Steering has completely changed and no consequential NVH or anything. What an under rated modification.

Awesome man!!!!! I have the super pro mount and I didn't have an issue with the 34 MS collars I have, since the super pro one is flush like oem. I just recently got a set of the upper bushings from super pro, so I would have to have the oem TT ones pressed out. I noticed a HUGE difference in in steering, although I switched to aluminum Passat spindles and Audi TT control arms at the same time. Instead of powder coating, etc, I would suggest going the alum spindles and control arm route if rust is an issue for you. :)

We have single piece Passat/TT alum subframe instead of the 3 piece one we have and I may swap it in when I do my new strut mounts/bearings next week. Also, you can get the alum rear subframe for the A3 as well....

I got my key fob folding module and everything coded correctly. My windows, sunroof, and mirrors close when I hold the lock button on my FOB. Now I have 2 door modules for folding mirrors, mirror dip, etc. I rewired my old side mirrors for mirror dip and oem puddle lights. I have the fold motors for a cabrio golf sitting around as well, I will probably give them to the person that buys the mirrors. they may have better luck disassembling the cabrio mirrors to swap the folding motors....

I'll look into aluminum control arms, but unless I can find some cheap I'll probably go the powder coat route. The main reason being I'm set up to do powder coat in my garage so it's virtually free. Can I run the passat control arms without upgrading to passat spindles? I had no idea about the single piece subframe from a passat/TT & the aluminum rear subframe from an A3 though. I'm gonna have to look into that. I assume it bolts right up? Do you happen to have part numbers?

Also, PM incoming about the mirrors.
 
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