6
Serpentine Belt howto?
- Thread starter cbenjes
- Start date
pashley
Ready to race!
belt
In for this too. I'd like to install my fluidampr pulley on my own...seems like it should be straightforward, but I need to make sure I handle the belt correctly.
In for this too. I'd like to install my fluidampr pulley on my own...seems like it should be straightforward, but I need to make sure I handle the belt correctly.
If only changing the serpentine belt you will not need the special crank pulley counter hold tool, but if changing the crank pulley or removing that at all then yes, you need a special tool that costs about $50 online.
For serpentine belt replacement only, jack up the passenger side, pull the lower fender liner, and locate the serpentine belt tensioner. There's only the crank pulley (largest), A/C compressor (lower right when facing crank pulley), alternator (upper right), and the belt tensioner pulley (small pulley in middle of it all) associated with this belt. Attach a long 17mm wrench or a 17mm socket and wrench to the nut on the end of the pulley, and rotate it clockwise (as if attempting to further tighten the nut). You will be fighting the spring tension so a longer handle wrench makes this easier. I used an 18 inch or so breaker bar to gain leverage. Once you relieve tension remove the old belt and slowly let the tensioner back into position while you grab the new belt (the tensioner has a strong spring force, don't let it snap downward without a belt in place). You can allow the tensioner to go all the way to it's end stop and remove the wrench if needed, it won't get damaged by traveling to full end. The new belt has grooves for all three items it needs to drive, while the tensioner rolls on the smooth back side of the belt. Place the belt in the proper arrangement, swing the tensioner up and tuck the belt under the tensioner pulley, and slowly release the tension on to the belt. The only thing I would caution is making sure the belt is correctly back in the grooves of the pulleys and that you never let the tensioner snap into place, since this could damage the tensioner and become a much bigger job.
**** edit 1/14/16- The turbo outlet pipe may be close enough to the crank pulley that it prevents the belt from coming out when removing. You can just unbolt the turbo outlet pipe to move out of the way and reattach after the new belt is installed. I forgot that I did my belt while doing chain tensioner, so my outlet pipe was already removed.
Overall it's a very easy job. VW states that if you remove the belt with plans to re-install you should mark what direction it was running prior to removal and re-install in same direction. Not an issue when replacing. Sorry I don't have any photos, but there may be some on the threads that show how to replace the timing chain tensioner and the ones about changing the crank pulley. I don't really think photos are needed since it's pretty self-explanatory once you see it. I don't think you'd be able to get this done from above by just popping the hood since the passenger engine mount gets in the way of the direction you need to swing the tensioner pulley, so I'd recommend coming in from underneath/side of engine.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
For serpentine belt replacement only, jack up the passenger side, pull the lower fender liner, and locate the serpentine belt tensioner. There's only the crank pulley (largest), A/C compressor (lower right when facing crank pulley), alternator (upper right), and the belt tensioner pulley (small pulley in middle of it all) associated with this belt. Attach a long 17mm wrench or a 17mm socket and wrench to the nut on the end of the pulley, and rotate it clockwise (as if attempting to further tighten the nut). You will be fighting the spring tension so a longer handle wrench makes this easier. I used an 18 inch or so breaker bar to gain leverage. Once you relieve tension remove the old belt and slowly let the tensioner back into position while you grab the new belt (the tensioner has a strong spring force, don't let it snap downward without a belt in place). You can allow the tensioner to go all the way to it's end stop and remove the wrench if needed, it won't get damaged by traveling to full end. The new belt has grooves for all three items it needs to drive, while the tensioner rolls on the smooth back side of the belt. Place the belt in the proper arrangement, swing the tensioner up and tuck the belt under the tensioner pulley, and slowly release the tension on to the belt. The only thing I would caution is making sure the belt is correctly back in the grooves of the pulleys and that you never let the tensioner snap into place, since this could damage the tensioner and become a much bigger job.
**** edit 1/14/16- The turbo outlet pipe may be close enough to the crank pulley that it prevents the belt from coming out when removing. You can just unbolt the turbo outlet pipe to move out of the way and reattach after the new belt is installed. I forgot that I did my belt while doing chain tensioner, so my outlet pipe was already removed.
Overall it's a very easy job. VW states that if you remove the belt with plans to re-install you should mark what direction it was running prior to removal and re-install in same direction. Not an issue when replacing. Sorry I don't have any photos, but there may be some on the threads that show how to replace the timing chain tensioner and the ones about changing the crank pulley. I don't really think photos are needed since it's pretty self-explanatory once you see it. I don't think you'd be able to get this done from above by just popping the hood since the passenger engine mount gets in the way of the direction you need to swing the tensioner pulley, so I'd recommend coming in from underneath/side of engine.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
Last edited:
Updated my DIY with something I forgot about:
The turbo outlet pipe may be close enough to the crank pulley that it prevents the belt from coming out when removing. You can just unbolt the turbo outlet pipe to move out of the way and reattach after the new belt is installed. I forgot that I did my belt while doing chain tensioner, so my outlet pipe was already removed.
This shouldn't be a problem if the TOP bolts have to be loosened or removed to make clearance for the belt.
The turbo outlet pipe may be close enough to the crank pulley that it prevents the belt from coming out when removing. You can just unbolt the turbo outlet pipe to move out of the way and reattach after the new belt is installed. I forgot that I did my belt while doing chain tensioner, so my outlet pipe was already removed.
This shouldn't be a problem if the TOP bolts have to be loosened or removed to make clearance for the belt.
twovalvekid
New member
How about the tensioner itself? Pretty sure mine is worn out (belt chirps like birds) and don't have much with respect to tools at my apt.
cbenjes
Go Kart Newbie
I changed my drive belt yesterday. Pretty straightforward, as Pooley said. You don't have to remove the turbo outlet pipe to remove/install the belt, just remove the 2 hex screws that keep it tight near the A/C compressor and you can move it out of the way enough to get the belt past it.
The worst part was removing the wheel liners. That took the bulk of the time.
All work is done from underneath the vehicle, so make sure you have it supported by sturdy jack stands.
I bought a new belt tensioner in case the old one was toast, but after 120,000 miles, the old roller was still as smooth as the new one, so I didn't see the need to replace it. Actually, the belt was in decent shape, too. Good thing the tensioner was OK. The Haynes manual says you have to support the motor, remove the motor mounts to remove the tensioner. Not in my garage. Not without a lift. Who in the hell designed that?
Fortunately, I can't find anyone who has had to replace a drive belt tensioner in a MK6 GTI yet, so they must be a pretty dependable part.
The worst part was removing the wheel liners. That took the bulk of the time.
All work is done from underneath the vehicle, so make sure you have it supported by sturdy jack stands.
I bought a new belt tensioner in case the old one was toast, but after 120,000 miles, the old roller was still as smooth as the new one, so I didn't see the need to replace it. Actually, the belt was in decent shape, too. Good thing the tensioner was OK. The Haynes manual says you have to support the motor, remove the motor mounts to remove the tensioner. Not in my garage. Not without a lift. Who in the hell designed that?
Fortunately, I can't find anyone who has had to replace a drive belt tensioner in a MK6 GTI yet, so they must be a pretty dependable part.
113kmi on my original belt tensioner without issue, and I didn't see any posts about how to remove it when I prepped for my timing chain tensioner replacement.
Blakcard
Autocross Newbie
Need to mine very soon after reading about what happened to @HandicappedGTI. found this video.. .pretty straightforward. Gonna order my belt from Rockauto.com
https://youtu.be/-mYHKzHcjgk
https://youtu.be/-mYHKzHcjgk