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Long story not short, I’m getting into modding.

Serrongetme

New member
I’ve had a MK6 GTI for a while now, but I’ve been too worried about messing with the extended warranty I bought with the car to ever really do anything fun to it. I don’t regret getting the warranty, because it has more than paid for itself, but having it did leave me less than attentive to the world of modding, which I originally bought the car to eventually get into. I have a K&N reusable “performance” filter in my stock intake, and I guess I’ll always consider that the first modification I ever technically made to my performance, but now that I’m ready for a serious modification, my head Is spinning from trying to prioritize. My philosophy for after the warranty ended was going to basically be “if it’s not broken don’t fix it”, essentially meaning I was planing to just wait out my parts and, as they went, I would take the opportunity to replace them with something a little more exciting than stock. My first real chance to follow this process has come and gone, thanks to an unfortunate long weekend road trip situation. I pulled into a parking lot to do something on my phone and that was it. As soon as I was done, I started the car, drove about two feet, and felt my power begin collapsing into rumbling misfires which gave a light show of yellow CEL flashes and an indecisive EPC light which didn’t end up staying on but showed itself all the same. It was some bad coils and plugs. This was the very beginning of a long weekend, I needed my car for plans which I also happened to be partway through a commute for, and there was nothing within a reasonable distance of me except for an actual VW dealership. Naturally they wanted a ridiculous amount of money to get me up and running again. Had this happened at less inopportune of a time, I would have been happy to order some NGK iridium spark plugs and R8 coils or something like that, and I’d officially have progressed toward a faster and better car in that way. Not a big upgrade, sure, but an important one for ecu tuning. These things already kinda go a lot, at least from what I’ve read in forums and heard in conversations, and even going stage I will often kill a coil or two within the first few thousand kilometres, so, in whichever order, both new coils and an ECU upgrade were going to happen within a short time of one another. Neither luck nor common human decency, it seemed, were on my side. The dealership wanted a whopping $130 just to officially diagnose the issue I already knew I had, before they’d be willing wit fix it, then $700 for parts and labour to do so. After tax, that would have been $937.90. That’s in Canadian dollars, in case anyone is wondering. Suffice it to say, they knew they were my only option. When the service advisor told me what the cost would be, my jaw literally dropped. I asked how much the parts alone would be and the quote was just under $400. Ignoring that quote for literally just plugs and coils with no install for a second, I took in the fact that the remaining $300+ of the cost was supposed to have just been the labour charge. If people are actually in the habit of paying “certified technicians” who can’t confirm, nor deny, a single fact about an engine which isn’t throwing a code to tell them where to look, over $300 for the 15 minutes of labour to install coils and plugs in a car, then I’m quitting my life to do that full time. You’ll think I’m nuts, thankfully less so than I would have to be to have paid for installation too, but I bought the parts I needed. It was worth it because I was able to really quickly install them where it sat and then get back on with my plans right away, even if I overpaid just to put stock parts back in it again. Now I’m trying to decide between APR stage I, an APR intake (just need the air box and the rear turbo inlet pipe for my engine), or if I should wait until I’m ready to buy both at the same time. The third option is just in case, if I do stage I, then get the intake, I would have to go back to update the software again to account for the new intake. I don’t actually know if that’s how it works or not though so please help me make my decision by correcting me if I’m wrong. I know that a new intake can call for an ECU reset but that it will eventually adapt to the new airflow on its own if you don’t reset it, given enough kilometres driven. I’m not sure if the ECU will do the same thing, or to the same extent, if I’m stage I. I’m also getting close to needing new brakes and I’m thinking of taking that opportunity to get better brakes. I was looking at the big brake upgrade kits but they are excessively expensive. Are there any suggestions for better-than-stock brake pad or maybe even rotor replacements which are well reviewed but won’t blow a modest modification budget? I’m also thinking about VCDS. If you just bought my car and you were ready to spend between $300 and $700 on a first modification, where would you start? Better coils? A catch can? ECU tune? Intake? None of the above? I should also mention that I’m happy to do the work myself, as long as that’s an option, but a good suggestion is a good suggestion, even if it’s something I’ll have to get done by someone with the proper equipment and/or training. I’m excited to hear what people have to say, because I’m really ready to get my hands dirty and then enjoy the fruit of my labour.


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Last edited:

tdream1

Autocross Newbie
R8 coils and a tune.
 

smanierre

Autocross Champion
Now I’m trying to decide between APR stage I, an APR intake (just need the air box and the rear turbo inlet pipe for my engine), or if I should wait until I’m ready to buy both at the same time.

This here is a polarizing topic and everyone has their own opinions, me included. My take on this is skip the APR hardware. That price for an intake is absurd. I'm a huge fan of the IE intake. It looks good, build quality is amazing, and way cheaper than APR ($300 less), even more so if you can find a used one on the classifieds. Also the IE intake is 3" all the way back to the turbo, although that really won't matter unless you're going BT.

The third option is just in case, if I do stage I, then get the intake, I would have to go back to update the software again to account for the new intake. I don’t actually know if that’s how it works or not though so please help me make my decision by correcting me if I’m wrong. I know that a new intake can call for an ECU reset but that it will eventually adapt to the new airflow on its own if you don’t reset it, given enough kilometres driven. I’m not sure if the ECU will do the same thing, or to the same extent, if I’m stage I.

If it's an off the shelf (OTS, in case you see that flying around) then there is no need to update or get reflashed when changing parts. The ECU will adapt on its own. Again with my opinion, a Cobb accessport with a stratified tune was the best thing i've done to my car. Lets you change the maps whenever and with companies like stratified, you can get some pretty amazing tunes. Also 6spd or DSG? This will be a big factor in what tune to get.

I’m also getting close to needing new brakes and I’m thinking of taking that opportunity to get better brakes. I was looking at the big brake upgrade kits but they are excessively expensive. Are there any suggestions for better-than-stock brake pad or maybe even rotor replacements which are well reviewed but won’t blow a modest modification budget?

BBKs are for the most part dumb expensive. I have one on order from Rotorlab where I got a full 18z kit, with mk5 r32 rear calipers for a parking brake, for just shy of $2k USD. That is basically as cheap as you'll find, and not necessary for most of the people on here (me included at ths point but I just hate money). If you're looking for a budget brake setup, just get better pads and rotors. I've heard good things about stoptech, but i've never done any of my own research into them so hopefully someone else chimes in or you can post in the braking portion of the forum.

I’m also thinking about VCDS.

I would say get an OBD 11 or something similar. Much cheaper and can do most of the stuff VCDS can do. If you really need a VCDS, can probably find someone nearby that has one.

If you just bought my car and you were ready to spend between $300 and $700 on a first modification, where would you start? Better coils? A catch can? ECU tune? Intake? None of the above?

I would personally start with a intake, downpipe, and tune. From there you can do pretty much everything else you want, as you want. Thats where I started and now i'm almost done with most things that can be changed on my car performance wise, then it's onto big turbo. Those will give you the best bang for your buck though.

I should also mention that I’m happy to do the work myself, as long as that’s an option, but a good suggestion is a good suggestion, even if it’s something I’ll have to get done by someone with the proper equipment and/or training. I’m excited to hear what people have to say, because I’m really ready to get my hands dirty and then enjoy the fruit of my labour.

This will save you a lot of money and a lot of the work isn't too hard, usually just frustrating at times. I also give these recommendations assuming all the maintenance has been done (timing chains, intake manifold, oil changes, blah blah blah), if not then do those first, then mod.
 

torga

Autocross Champion
This here is a polarizing topic and everyone has their own opinions, me included. My take on this is skip the APR hardware. That price for an intake is absurd. I'm a huge fan of the IE intake. It looks good, build quality is amazing, and way cheaper than APR ($300 less), even more so if you can find a used one on the classifieds. Also the IE intake is 3" all the way back to the turbo, although that really won't matter unless you're going BT.
For the most part, an intake is an intake. There are some that have better sealing from the air inlet, but you'll be fine with most any decent CAI. Don't need a CAI for Stage 1, but it would help for Stage 2. I have a BSH CAI and I'm a fan.

I would say get an OBD 11 or something similar. Much cheaper and can do most of the stuff VCDS can do. If you really need a VCDS, can probably find someone nearby that has one.
+1 on OBDeleven. That's an excellent little reader that packs a big punch for $50-70.



I would personally start with a intake, downpipe, and tune. From there you can do pretty much everything else you want, as you want. Thats where I started and now i'm almost done with most things that can be changed on my car performance wise, then it's onto big turbo. Those will give you the best bang for your buck though.
If you're going to do a downpipe and a Stage 2 tune, you need to budget for a performance clutch as well. The stock clutch can't handle much more torque from stock and you will start slipping it shortly after the increased torque from a Stage 2 tune (115-130 lb-ft at the crank over stock in some cases). Stickier tires are also a must, to put all that torque down. Stiffer motor mounts and a dogbone mount will help, too.



This will save you a lot of money and a lot of the work isn't too hard, usually just frustrating at times. I also give these recommendations assuming all the maintenance has been done (timing chains, intake manifold, oil changes, blah blah blah), if not then do those first, then mod.
Tons of information about all these maintenance bits all around the forum, just a search away. But most of us are helpful and will answer any questions.
 

GolNat

Autocross Champion
Looks like OP posted from an iPhone so no OBD11. Buy a cheap android phone or tablet or if you have a laptop get VagCom.

Best bang for the buck first mods IMO:

1.) Summer Tires
2.) Stage 1 tune

Call it a day and build upon that. Stage 1 requires nothing but a flash get the other stuff like an intake later when you can get a good used one. Not needed but a DV+ is also nice with the tune.
 

GIACUser

Master Wallet Mechanic
I will say it is expensive to mod this car but the results are commensurate with the expense, they can transform the car.

I have owned my MKV GTI for 11 years and have tried just about every level of modding from just stage 1 to my current build which is all out with big turbo, forged motor and brakes and suspension to match.

My favorite level was going with K04 turbo. If I had known just how good it would be I would have skipped stage 1 and 2 and just gone straight to K04. When I drove the car with the K04 for the first time it felt like the car finally had the power it should have had from the factory. Doing this mod is like getting a whole new car as it can easily provide an extra 100-140whp and you end up with a car that pulls hard all the way to redline.
 

zrickety

The Fixer
There have been a number of threads like this over the years. The way I like to do it is-
Stage 1 tune.
Any reputable intake.
Lower control arm bushings (the big ones), this is effectively like a traction bar.
Subframe mount or at least an insert.
Unibrace xb

This is the most cost effective way to take it to the next level. After that, lightweight wheels and better tires, suspension depending on your mileage. K04 if you've got money to burn.
 

sterkrazzy

Autocross Champion
Suspension is usually one of the first things I do. I like a little bit stiffer ride, but I mostly do it just to eliminate the wheel gap.

CAI/exhaust is another thing I do pretty early. I just like the noises.

If you're going to be modding a dogbone mount is a must as it'll help you keep the power to the ground. Engine mounts as well, but that can happen later. The dogbone mount is just so cheap and easy and makes a big difference.

Then I get my tune and just kinda continue building the car from there.
 
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