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F23T Technical Info Compilation Thread

RGTI13

Go Kart Champion
working whit some guy over the internet to see if he can tune my file ill be posting logs once i get rev2 by the mean time this is rev 1 log for f23 on 91 shell
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This shit is too rich. Wtf is this. Like seriously.

Make sure you have the correct plugs (and correctly gapped), get a dual nozzle methanol kit (they REALLY are simple), and then re-tune.

I always aimed for 2-5 degrees of timing pull on a hot day when I didn't have methanol. When I did, I aimed for 4 or less. I'm going to assume that your timing pull is a mixture of lack of octane, high cyl temps, and the fact you're dumping fuel. Your AFRs are in the 10s at some points when they should be in the 12s. I am an extreme case, but I always preferred a lambda of .87-.89.
 
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tone7601

Passed Driver's Ed
yeah im actually running the wrong plugs i forgot i had to change them i was running the laser ones urotunning provides i was using them on my stage 1 but i already got the
BKR8EIX # 2668

Omg. His timing pull is perfectly fine. Put in correctly gapped plugs (one step colder) and call it a day. You don't want 0 timing pull for the 100000th time
Gives me a headache reading these posts.

You could lean up the car to make some more power if you wanted. You're not running much timing anyways, so there is honestly no reason to pull any more lol. You don't have much room for e85 in my opinion. You could run a couple gallons but you'll have to lean up your mixture otherwise you're going to raise that injector timing too high.

Your intake temps are ridiculous. That's where your timing pull is coming from. Invest in a methanol kit. Simple fix.

I don't like the end of your log. You should do a full log to 6500-ish RPM. Your injection timing shoots up and your lambda shoots down flooding the cylinders. Normally that's a case of high cyl temps but you can't tell unless you continue the logging.

Edit: it looks like the tune is requesting a dump in fuel at 5500-ish RPM. That needs to be addressed before going further anywhere was in the tune. You don't want to see requested or actual lambda in the .7x's.

TL/DR: That tune needs some major revisions.
 

mikejsmith1985

Go Kart Champion
Omg. His timing pull is perfectly fine. Put in correctly gapped plugs (one step colder) and call it a day. You don't want 0 timing pull for the 100000th time
Gives me a headache reading these posts.

You could lean up the car to make some more power if you wanted. You're not running much timing anyways, so there is honestly no reason to pull any more lol. You don't have much room for e85 in my opinion. You could run a couple gallons but you'll have to lean up your mixture otherwise you're going to raise that injector timing too high.

Your intake temps are ridiculous. That's where your timing pull is coming from. Invest in a methanol kit. Simple fix.

I don't like the end of your log. You should do a full log to 6500-ish RPM. Your injection timing shoots up and your lambda shoots down flooding the cylinders. Normally that's a case of high cyl temps but you can't tell unless you continue the logging.

Edit: it looks like the tune is requesting a dump in fuel at 5500-ish RPM. That needs to be addressed before going further anywhere was in the tune. You don't want to see requested or actual lambda in the .7x's.

TL/DR: That tune needs some major revisions.


Just to clarify I've already stated that I'm not an expert I'll share what I interpret. For my car I want 0 knock... If you're ok with more knock that's awesome it's just not what I want in my tune. I'm certain there are many things that one could find wrong with your theories as well as mine. If there was only 1 solution we wouldn't have so many tuning options. I respect your input and I admit I could be wrong! I don't know what your credentials are so I assume you're not infallible either... I apologize that my theory on no knock seems to bother you so deeply.
 

tone7601

Passed Driver's Ed
Okay guys someone teach me something and tell me for what i should be looking for like whats bad and whats good i know knock is somewhat bad if it appears at lower rpm now about intake tempature and lambada what number should be good im trying to learn but the more inlook into it the more i get confused
 

RGTI13

Go Kart Champion
Just to clarify I've already stated that I'm not an expert I'll share what I interpret. For my car I want 0 knock... If you're ok with more knock that's awesome it's just not what I want in my tune. I'm certain there are many things that one could find wrong with your theories as well as mine. If there was only 1 solution we wouldn't have so many tuning options. I respect your input and I admit I could be wrong! I don't know what your credentials are so I assume you're not infallible either... I apologize that my theory on no knock seems to bother you so deeply.

Knock is not as dangerous as you are making it out to be in your head. In an ideal world, you want a couple degrees of timing pull on a warm day. This is not because you want knock but because you know your tune is optimized to be the best as possible. If you have zero pull all the time, the tune is too safe and you're leaving power on the table. This is just my opinion and interpretation of it.

My credentials: 480WHP for 35k miles. Stock motor. Eurodyne. And that was a low-boost dyno. I was above 500 for 10k+. This is all with a constant -4/-5 timing pull on the higher rpm band on a warm day and .88-.89 lambda.
 
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RGTI13

Go Kart Champion
Okay guys someone teach me something and tell me for what i should be looking for like whats bad and whats good i know knock is somewhat bad if it appears at lower rpm now about intake tempature and lambada what number should be good im trying to learn but the more inlook into it the more i get confused

The start/end points on your methanol kit will depend on your mixture and nozzle sizes. If you're doing two smaller nozzles and a 50/50 mix by volume (distilled and methanol) then you may want to start spray at 10psi and full by 18psi. That's if your peak boost is around 22-ish. That's just a simple setting.

Intake Air Temp: This issue for you will be solved with methanol injection. More water in the mixture, lower intake temps. More methanol in the mixture, higher octane.

Knock: Low RPM timing pull is obviously an issue because you're not under load. So that's an obvious problem. As I said above, I will shoot for a few degrees of timing pull on a warm day because it'll adjust on a cooler night. Your issue with timing pull is a combination of your high intake temps and low octane fuel. Both of which will be solved with methanol.

Lambda/AFR: Idealy, you want (depends where you feel comfortable) .83-.88 lambda requested and within .01 actual. I always ran around .88/.89. That's pretty lean, but I put 35k miles on my car with 480WHP on the stock motor.
 

drepai

Go Kart Champion
I always had good luck setting full 2-3 psi under whatever boost I'm seeing at 7000 rpm then subtracting 6-8 from that to get start. K04 frame turbos will taper to like 16 psi around there, gotta make sure meth flow doesn't taper too.
 

tone7601

Passed Driver's Ed
another question what meth kit you guys using someone told me to go whit coolingmist but im not really sure about it since ive never heard about this kit i was leaning more towards the aem since i can get for 550 installed whit brackets and everything
 

12bluemk6

Ready to race!
another question what meth kit you guys using someone told me to go whit coolingmist but im not really sure about it since ive never heard about this kit i was leaning more towards the aem since i can get for 550 installed whit brackets and everything
I've seen devil's own kits with k04 setups that were only $300. Basic kit and you get what you pay for, but if you're only going for cooling and a little extra octane it would be more than enough. 100oct tune on that wouldn't be a great idea though.

Anyways, what brought me here is that I wanted to announce I'll be joining the f23 club in the next few weeks. ? can't wait. Been following this thread and others for a while now... getting extremely bored of stage 2

Uni Stage 2 | SPM DP | Magnaflow CB | S3 IC | 034 Mounts | HPA Red Puck | FX350 Kit | BSH Intake | Rev D DV | DG SS
 

12bluemk6

Ready to race!
Yeah, definitely is, I don't even remember stage 2 anymore except it was not fast lol
First fast car I've owned and it's still too slow for me. If I had the money I'd be big turbo and over 500whp but the college life sucks lmao

Anyways, any suggestions/ things I might need upon ordering the f23? I'm ordering it ceramic coated, with hardware, right from FrankenTurbo site.... Is the MBC worth it? I was seriously considering an eboost 2 setup I'll be running unitronic 2+. Might just get the MBC to be safe for the time being

Stage 2 | SPM DP | Magnaflow CB | S3 IC | 034 Mounts | HPA Red Puck | FX350 Kit | BSH Intake | Rev D DV | DG SS
 

drepai

Go Kart Champion
First fast car I've owned and it's still too slow for me. If I had the money I'd be big turbo and over 500whp but the college life sucks lmao

Anyways, any suggestions/ things I might need upon ordering the f23? I'm ordering it ceramic coated, with hardware, right from FrankenTurbo site.... Is the MBC worth it? I was seriously considering an eboost 2 setup.

Uni Stage 2 | SPM DP | Magnaflow CB | S3 IC | 034 Mounts | HPA Red Puck | FX350 Kit | BSH Intake | Rev D DV | DG SS

MBC basically sets a duty cycle and leaves it, if boost tapers up top or spikes you can't do anything about it. Eboost2 gives you control over pretty much everything and allows you to switch boost maps on the fly.
 
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