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Performance build plan

Korydogg

Ready to race!
Planning to go APR intake, R8 coils, Neuspeed FMIC and Borla catback exhaust. These will all be ordered at the same time and hopefully installed in a weekend. Once I'm done with that, I plan to go Stratified tune and get it all dialed in.

What are your thoughts?

I have read on this forum that intakes aren't really worth the money when you're not going past stage 1. Which is the case here......I just want reliable power and don't ever plan on going stage 2......but have a lot of experience with engine building and find it hard to believe a better flowing intake isn't going to produce more power....even if its just a little bit.

Also, the exhaust is more for sound than anything else. I know I need to replace the DP if I really wanna make power gains but I am not planning on going that far.

I'm at 65K and have already replaced the spark plugs.
 

Boscogn

Go Kart Champion
CAI gives like 2-5hp once tuned barely anything it's mostly for sound. Your biggest performance upgrades are tune and tires. IC 3rd then mounts and suspension bits imo.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
 

thatspsychotic

Ready to race!
Planning to go APR intake, R8 coils, Neuspeed FMIC and Borla catback exhaust. These will all be ordered at the same time and hopefully installed in a weekend. Once I'm done with that, I plan to go Stratified tune and get it all dialed in.

What are your thoughts?

I have read on this forum that intakes aren't really worth the money when you're not going past stage 1. Which is the case here......I just want reliable power and don't ever plan on going stage 2......but have a lot of experience with engine building and find it hard to believe a better flowing intake isn't going to produce more power....even if its just a little bit.

Also, the exhaust is more for sound than anything else. I know I need to replace the DP if I really wanna make power gains but I am not planning on going that far.

I'm at 65K and have already replaced the spark plugs.

Cat back does effectively zero for power, it's just sound. If you want more sound then do it, but put the money elsewhere otherwise. Similar story for the intake, but there are slightly more gains to be had with an intake, 5-10 HP if the tune you get is specifically optimized for it, much less if not.

Next most important beyond tires, which you will desperately want after stage 1 torque levels, are smaller items like a GFB DV+ or at least a Rev D diverter valve because depending on what you have, the stock DV (for example rev G) is a known weak point and started leaking boost very shortly after I went Stage 1. Also consider either proactively replacing your PCV plate if it's not the AH revision, or going for a catch can setup to protect against PCV valve boost leaking into the crankcase.

Other fast parts that aren't power-related but will help make the most out of it are Tyrolsport subframe collars or similar kit, and upgrading all the rubber parts like SuperPro offset control arm bushings, BFI stage 1 engine/trans mounts, etc.
 

GreyGti1990

Ready to race!
If you are manual transmission, plan on upgrading that clutch sooner rather than later.
 

GIACUser

Master Wallet Mechanic
Planning to go APR intake, R8 coils, Neuspeed FMIC and Borla catback exhaust. These will all be ordered at the same time and hopefully installed in a weekend. Once I'm done with that, I plan to go Stratified tune and get it all dialed in.

What are your thoughts?

I have read on this forum that intakes aren't really worth the money when you're not going past stage 1. Which is the case here......I just want reliable power and don't ever plan on going stage 2......but have a lot of experience with engine building and find it hard to believe a better flowing intake isn't going to produce more power....even if its just a little bit.

Also, the exhaust is more for sound than anything else. I know I need to replace the DP if I really wanna make power gains but I am not planning on going that far.

I'm at 65K and have already replaced the spark plugs.


I have had my MKV GTI for 10 years now. Started out like you. Pretty much tried everything related to performance for these cars. Have done all the stages, KO4 and now going forged motor and big turbo and beyond.

If I were starting over again and I wanted the best performance for a relatively small outlay with 100% reliability and no smog issues (I live in Cali too).... I would say your first purchase should be stage 1 tune. Forget everything else until you do this.
 

thatspsychotic

Ready to race!
If I were starting over again and I wanted the best performance for a relatively small outlay with 100% reliability and no smog issues (I live in Cali too).... I would say your first purchase should be stage 1 tune. Forget everything else until you do this.

Agree on going stage 1, but I wouldn't call it 100% reliability if you don't touch literally anything else. My experience with stage 1 (now at 147k miles) has meant upgraded diverter valve (mine leaked even at stage 1 boost levels with the stock rev G version) and constant vigilance about the PCV plate (mine failed with only vague symptoms and no CELs and caused failure of my rear main seal).

It's still worth doing stage 1, but you definitely need heightened awareness of certain things, especially as the car ages.
 

Jarred767

Ready to race!
Agree on going stage 1, but I wouldn't call it 100% reliability if you don't touch literally anything else. My experience with stage 1 (now at 147k miles) has meant upgraded diverter valve (mine leaked even at stage 1 boost levels with the stock rev G version) and constant vigilance about the PCV plate (mine failed with only vague symptoms and no CELs and caused failure of my rear main seal).

It's still worth doing stage 1, but you definitely need heightened awareness of certain things, especially as the car ages.

What’s recommended as far as maintenance with the pcv? I just went Stage 1+ (Cobb with their intake) and just crossed 100k, so want to make sure I’m staying on top of things. (Already have red top coils and GFB DV+ is probably next) thanks!

Btw, great question OP! I see myself in a very similar boat with my build. Gonna do a few more small things then get a stratified tune as well, so I’m interested to here what others have to say.
 

Allchokedup

Autocross Champion
I went stage 1 @ 120k miles, went stage 2 @ 130k miles. Shortly after new sb stage 2 and single mass flywheel. Its fun but i have had serious engine issues that i have repaired. Have now bought a spare daily just incase. Now going to accumulate bolt ons as i build a solid back up motor. People including myself fail to realize when our daily is our fun car its only a matter of time..
 

GreyGti1990

Ready to race!
I went stage 1 @ 120k miles, went stage 2 @ 130k miles. Shortly after new sb stage 2 and single mass flywheel. Its fun but i have had serious engine issues that i have repaired. Have now bought a spare daily just incase. Now going to accumulate bolt ons as i build a solid back up motor. People including myself fail to realize when our daily is our fun car its only a matter of time..

Comes down to maintenance, really. This car has been my daily driver for going on 3 years now. I've also got a 2011. Bought it with 42k on the clock and its at 91k now. Haven't had any (knock on wood) huge issues with it.
Intake manifold was replaced before I got it.
Water pump started leaking and was covered under warranty.
Replaced the timing chain tensioner as preventative maintenance at 80k miles.
Replaced PVC valve as preventative maintenance at 90k miles.
Had the rear main seal replaced when I upgraded my clutch at around 60k miles.

Only time I came close to having my car towed was when my stock coil packs failed on me after going stage 1.

Car has been stage 2 since around 60k miles.

No need for me to buy a cheap daily or have a replacement motor on the side.
 

GreyGti1990

Ready to race!
What’s recommended as far as maintenance with the pcv? I just went Stage 1+ (Cobb with their intake) and just crossed 100k, so want to make sure I’m staying on top of things. (Already have red top coils and GFB DV+ is probably next) thanks!

Btw, great question OP! I see myself in a very similar boat with my build. Gonna do a few more small things then get a stratified tune as well, so I’m interested to here what others have to say.

The PCV is just known to fail. Theres a check valve on the PCV that gets stuck and once that happens... it builds pressure in the crank case from what I understand and that can cause the rear main seal to fail and start leaking oil. Once the rear main seal fails you gotta pull the transmission to repair it.

There has been a lot of revisions for the PCV. The recommended maintenance is replacing your PCV with the AH revision. Real easy swap to do. PCV is kinda pricey though at around $200/250.

Since you own a 2011 model its also a good idea to check the upper timing chain tensioner. The old styles are known to fail at times and can cause timing to jump and major engine damage.

I had the old style in my 2011 and had it replaced. If your at 100k miles and have the old revision I'd just look into doing the whole timing chain with new guides and tensioners.
 

thatspsychotic

Ready to race!
What’s recommended as far as maintenance with the pcv? I just went Stage 1+ (Cobb with their intake) and just crossed 100k, so want to make sure I’m staying on top of things. (Already have red top coils and GFB DV+ is probably next) thanks!

Btw, great question OP! I see myself in a very similar boat with my build. Gonna do a few more small things then get a stratified tune as well, so I’m interested to here what others have to say.

Since you're at 100k, I recommend just straight up replacing the PCV plate with a new one as described below. Better than keeping running it and needing a rear main seal before you know it. It's an ultra simple DIY, right on top of the motor, just unbolt old and re-bolt new. It might be over $200, but you could buy 6 or 7 PCV plates for the amount that doing the rear main seal costs.

The PCV is just known to fail. Theres a check valve on the PCV that gets stuck and once that happens... it builds pressure in the crank case from what I understand and that can cause the rear main seal to fail and start leaking oil. Once the rear main seal fails you gotta pull the transmission to repair it.

There has been a lot of revisions for the PCV. The recommended maintenance is replacing your PCV with the AH revision. Real easy swap to do. PCV is kinda pricey though at around $200/250.

Since you own a 2011 model its also a good idea to check the upper timing chain tensioner. The old styles are known to fail at times and can cause timing to jump and major engine damage.

I had the old style in my 2011 and had it replaced. If your at 100k miles and have the old revision I'd just look into doing the whole timing chain with new guides and tensioners.

Pretty much all of that is right on, I've lived through all of it including my rear main seal letting go due to failed PCV plate. I did the timing chain/tensioner on my car at 120k, tough bill but good peace of mind. These cars are not cheap to keep running, plain and simple. However, only time I was nearly stranded was when I had a failing CV joint, but that's not really related to the tune, was just a torn boot that went unnoticed for just long enough to be a problem.
 
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Korydogg

Ready to race!
Thanks everyone for the input here. Definitely some good info and discussion back and forth. With the guidance here I plan to definitely go stage 1 and do the supporting mods as suggested. I decided against the intake because I felt like it just really wasn't worth it.....same with the catback. I took my car to a custom exhaust shop a few weeks ago and did a resonator delete and it sounds perfect. So no need for the cat back......however, that stock muffler looks like poop from the back of the car. I'm still gonna get a FMIC....living in California it gets stupid hot here...and have read nothing but great things about having a better IC and the relation between consistent power and heat.
 

Korydogg

Ready to race!
Cat back does effectively zero for power, it's just sound. If you want more sound then do it, but put the money elsewhere otherwise. Similar story for the intake, but there are slightly more gains to be had with an intake, 5-10 HP if the tune you get is specifically optimized for it, much less if not.

Next most important beyond tires, which you will desperately want after stage 1 torque levels, are smaller items like a GFB DV+ or at least a Rev D diverter valve because depending on what you have, the stock DV (for example rev G) is a known weak point and started leaking boost very shortly after I went Stage 1. Also consider either proactively replacing your PCV plate if it's not the AH revision, or going for a catch can setup to protect against PCV valve boost leaking into the crankcase.

Other fast parts that aren't power-related but will help make the most out of it are Tyrolsport subframe collars or similar kit, and upgrading all the rubber parts like SuperPro offset control arm bushings, BFI stage 1 engine/trans mounts, etc.

How can I tell If I have the AH revision PCV plate?
 
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