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master water/meth discussion thread

DallasDub94

Go Kart Newbie
I emailed Aquamist almost 2 weeks ago and have yet to get a response? Is that normal for them?

Also emailed aquamist here in the states and they forwarded the email to the main shop. Also messaged them on facebook, but just received automated responses.
 
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riceburner

Autocross Champion
selling a methanol pump mount from BSH if anyones interested PM me.
 

HYDE161

Go Kart Champion
I emailed Aquamist almost 2 weeks ago and have yet to get a response? Is that normal for them?

Also emailed aquamist here in the states and they forwarded the email to the main shop. Also messaged them on facebook, but just received automated responses.

Forward me your email to Aquamist. RJacobs1@gmail.com
 

DallasDub94

Go Kart Newbie

HYDE161

Go Kart Champion
Some have seen this by now on FB and IG (@becauseHYDE), just circling back to update the forums...

Here’s our baseline dyno with a very conservative low boost tune on 93 pump gas & methanol. SAE 447HP at 6,493rpm and SAE 422TQ @ 5,250pm, both with 26.5psi and 18.75 degrees of timing on a 424xLC2 Dual Eddy Current All Wheel Drive dynamometer. Next step we are working on cleaning up the tune with 30psi+ for another dyno run before building an E85 tune for even more power.

Here’s the build progression in a nutshell for anyone who wants to take a Gen2 TSI engine to this power level. Pag Parts Turbo (PPT) built the bottom end (rods/pistons/wrist pins), upgraded the clutch and added their prototype EFR7163 .85AR TSI turbo kit. PPT built the top end (Supertech), custom Audi all-road intake manifold with port fuel layout and true front mount intercooler. Took my time meticulously wiring and testing the Torqbyte CM5-LT and PM3 with twin 1,000cc split-spray port fuel injectors and post intercooler water methanol jet. Started logging higher boost files with port fuel and quickly realized we were out of LPFP supply so went with the PPT custom Walbro450 LPFP kit. Realized I needed more traction so switched up my suspension/wheel/tire layout which led to more speed which led to a newer brake system upgrade. Added more boost and timing and built a 2nd stage of PWM direct port methanol with the CM5-LT to support higher timing. Shed a ton of weight (seats and trunk) and corner balanced the car for more traction. Built a full Beetle “MWS” 02Q 6-speed transmission with Peloquin LSD/TyrolSport ARP case bolts/steel shift forks. Spent months logging around weather/work/family to tune the Eurodyne ECU file and simultaneously tune 4 separate MAPS on the CM5-LT (AUX = Walbro450 / MAIN = pump with 1st stage post intercooler water methanol / GPO1 = port fuel / GPO2 = 2nd stage direct port water methanol). It was a lot to accomplish in 2+ years with kids/new house/new job. This wasn’t an all-at-once cash build to go from K04 to fully built big turbo; I scrounged for sponsorships, sold off old parts to make way for new/improved parts, did a lot of the work myself, gained a lot of the parts or discounts from writing HYDE16 forum reviews since 2011 and leaned on a lot of people for advice and recommendations. It’s been a long road and to some, “too long of a build”, but I built this car my way and it’s now starting to pay off. As one friend put it, a “build” is about the journey and friends met along the way, not about the end result.

Thank you to Arnold Lee at Pag Parts Turbo for his engineering/fabrication/hardware/overall build, Rick Daystrom at Torqbyte for the support and software enhancements, Kim Andre Kvernlien at KAK Tuning for his long term Eurodyne custom tuning, Kojac Jerry for the late night Torqbyte tuning sessions and meticulous improvements, David Veal and Andrew Bowers for overall support during every road block I faced (tune/emissions/LPFP supply issues/etc) and everyone else who said they love following the build which in turn kept this going as far as it did. The entire build has been chronologically cataloged with step by step build photos on IG @becauseHYDE16.

 

smanierre

Autocross Champion
Bringing this bitch back from the dead. Getting ready to do my initial WM setup and have a few questions. While i'm on the stock turbo i'm just gonna be running one jet post IC for cooling. For anyone that may have this setup, how much are you spraying? Trying to figure out what size aquamist jet to get. Also, what's the best option for a pump? Eventually i'll be running the post IC nozzle along with 4 dpi nozzles so I want a pump that can handle it. Should I just go with the Aquamist pump as well?
 

HYDE161

Go Kart Champion
Bringing this bitch back from the dead. Getting ready to do my initial WM setup and have a few questions. While i'm on the stock turbo i'm just gonna be running one jet post IC for cooling. For anyone that may have this setup, how much are you spraying? Trying to figure out what size aquamist jet to get. Also, what's the best option for a pump? Eventually i'll be running the post IC nozzle along with 4 dpi nozzles so I want a pump that can handle it. Should I just go with the Aquamist pump as well?

Aquamist pump, run a 0.6mm post intercooler jet and 0.4mm DPI jets to start.
 

zef

Drag Racing Champion
I've been back and forth on getting an aquamist setup for awhile and I am now tempted to pull the trigger on a simple post IC bung - not looking to tune it for power or anything, just looking for the cooler IAT benefit. Looking at the aquamist kit and the setup looks pretty straight forward, but whats the best way to determine at what point it should come on, how strong, etc...is it trial and error, or are there some general rules of thumbs you can follow to make setup a little easier?
 

HYDE161

Go Kart Champion
I've been back and forth on getting an aquamist setup for awhile and I am now tempted to pull the trigger on a simple post IC bung - not looking to tune it for power or anything, just looking for the cooler IAT benefit. Looking at the aquamist kit and the setup looks pretty straight forward, but whats the best way to determine at what point it should come on, how strong, etc...is it trial and error, or are there some general rules of thumbs you can follow to make setup a little easier?

I will set your board up for you. Start with a 0.6mm check valve jet in the post intercooler location. 60/40 meth to water mix by volume which works out to 50/50 by weight.
 

GIACUser

Master Wallet Mechanic
I've been back and forth on getting an aquamist setup for awhile and I am now tempted to pull the trigger on a simple post IC bung - not looking to tune it for power or anything, just looking for the cooler IAT benefit. Looking at the aquamist kit and the setup looks pretty straight forward, but whats the best way to determine at what point it should come on, how strong, etc...is it trial and error, or are there some general rules of thumbs you can follow to make setup a little easier?

An accurate way is to do a timing log of 4th gear runs from 2500rpm to redline. The resulting log will show you where timing retard begins and the severity of it. The goal is to add just enough w/m to get to zero timing being pulled throughout a 4th gear full throttle run. It is best to work up, just until you reach zero timing, going over can't be seen in the logs but it will result in quench and loss of power.

That is how I did it with my Snow system. The Aquamist system is more complex and I admit that with my new setup/engine I had my tuner install and tune this one since he was an Aquamist dealer and he was tuning my motor with it anyway.

There are some calculators on the various W/M sites that give you a good starting point on jet size.

On my MKV K04 GTI running a DM 100 octane tune (91 octane in tank) I ran a 2 nozzle system (Snow) with 50/50 w/m. 2- 225ml nozzles. One nozzle just at intercooler exit. Second nozzle in TB plate just after TB.
 

UberFast

Ready to race!
Just finished reading the whole thread. Lots of good info here. Thanks to everyone that has pitched in their experience and knowledge. Almost done installing a dual nozzle snow stage 2 kit. Just have to finish wiring it tomorrow and test. Will be about 100 degrees here the next couple days so should be a good test of the kit.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

GIACUser

Master Wallet Mechanic
Just finished reading the whole thread. Lots of good info here. Thanks to everyone that has pitched in their experience and knowledge. Almost done installing a dual nozzle snow stage 2 kit. Just have to finish wiring it tomorrow and test. Will be about 100 degrees here the next couple days so should be a good test of the kit.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Let us know how it works for you.
 
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