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Old 04-13-2010, 12:43 AM   #1
2010 UG
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Front Door Panel Removal Write-up

I've had a couple PM's about doing a write-up on the door panel removal, so here goes. My pictures didn't really come out as well as I would have liked, and I didn't take near enough of them, but I think I have enough to explain this clearly. All the pictures below are of the driver's side of a 3-door.

Tools needed:
Some sort of prying tool (screwdriver, butter knife, panel tool)
Torx T30 bit or driver
If you are using torx bits on a ratchet you'll need at least a 3 inch extension
You also might want to pick up some spare clips for the door panel (more on that later)

Step 1:
First thing you need to do is remove the small panel that sits just below the armrest. It is the piece that is removed in this picture:

The red arrow indicates where you should start to pry the piece upwards, it starts to pop up pretty easily and you shouldn't have to use much pressure. Work your way around the piece carefully pulling towards you and slightly upward. Once you reach the rear you should be able to slide it forward. Be careful not to pull the rear section straight out, as it is looped in behind the main panel and you might break something. Once you have it removed, set it aside.

Step 2:
Now its time to remove the three torx screws holding the panel in place. All three are the same size, T30. The are located in this picture by the green arrows.

Make sure not to misplace any of the screws

Step 3:
Now that the screws are removed the panel is help in place by 7 clips on the underside of the panel. This picture of the back of the door panel should help you locate them. remember this is the reverse side of the drivers door.

I had the most luck by starting with lower rear corner (bottom right in this pic) then sliding my hands under the panel and slowly moving towards the front of the car while slightly pulling towards my body. Try not to lift or pull down on the panel, but pull as straight outward as possible. Once you have unclipped to the three along the bottom move up along sides remembering to pull straight out.

Step 4:
Once you have released all the clips you can pull up on the door panel it should slide free of the door. At this point it would be wise to set a towel or something soft on the ground to rest the door panel on while you unclip the door lock wires and such from the panel. I didnt get a picture of how it looked before I unclipped the wires but I can tell you that there are 4 or 5 harnesses all located around the window controls and the door latch mechanism highlighted in this picture:

the latch mechanism simply unclip from the panel by pulling on it, and all the wires unclip in a fairly straight forward manner. make sure not to forget about the little blinking red light thingy on the top of the drivers side panel.

Then we get to the whole reason I started this mini-project; the door speaker. As you can see from this pic, replacing it is going to be quite a bitch. the speaker and mounting ring are one solid unit that is riveted to the inner door panel.


Time for re-installation. Its basically the same steps in reverse with a couple of minor differences. the first is that you need to make sure that the 7 little plastic rivets are are not still in the locked position, you can tell the difference by looking at these two pics I blatantly stole from someone else's write-up. The first is of the clip in a locked position (not what you want), the second is the unlocked position which is what you are shooting for.


Apparently these things have a tendency to break or get stuck in the door, I guess I was lucky. Either way its probably best to pick up a couple spares form the dealership or whatever.

After that, the easiest way to get the panel back on is to remove the felt window strip from the panel by pulling it down away from the door panel. It slides off pretty easy. Going back to the picture from step 3 you can see it as the dark strip at the top. here it re-installed on the door:

Once you've got that done, its a pretty simple. the main thing is to make sure that doors lock and unlock properly after re-attaching the latch cable. It seemed pretty idiot-proof to me, but you never know.

Like I said, this is my first write-up so be patient with me please.

Justin

Last edited by 2010 UG; 04-13-2010 at 12:16 PM.
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Old 04-13-2010, 12:50 AM   #2
siagolf
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Thank you for this, and I hope you don't mine me linking this thread in my CF-wrap thread!
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Old 04-13-2010, 11:24 AM   #3
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Very good write-up! I think the size of the Torx bit is T20. At least that's what it is for the 4 bolts that hold the head-unit in place
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Old 04-13-2010, 12:15 PM   #4
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I went and checked the bit size, its T30. I've updated my original post
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Old 09-03-2011, 12:04 PM   #5
MegaMikeLA
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this is JUST what I was looking for! Going to do this today as I am having some speaker rattle within the door on an aftermarket system that the dealership will not cover!
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Old 09-04-2011, 10:43 PM   #6
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Thanks for this.
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Old 10-23-2011, 09:11 PM   #7
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Thanks for this write up, it was invaluable for getting in the door today. I'll be using this in my speaker install DIY coming soon.
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Old 11-11-2011, 01:25 PM   #8
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Very valuable. Thanks for risking it for the good of the forum!

I've got a rattle that I've been meaning to tackle as well and this writeup will be crucial.
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Old 12-17-2011, 02:32 AM   #9
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thank you and a addendum to this write up for newer MKVIs

Thank you for the write up. I was able to replace my mashed driver side mirror on my 2 week old 2012 GTI and only had to pay for parts ($250) the painted cap was the only part that wasn't damaged

One addition to your writeup - don't know if its new for 2012 but in step 2 there are 4 T30 torx screws to remove. The pic is slightly different than my door so there might have been an extra screw added to the door. The added screw to is closest to the door latch. Just FYI to any 2012 GTIs that are getting the door panels removed.

Thanks
John
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Old 12-17-2011, 03:15 AM   #10
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Thanks to the OP for this write up. I followed it pretty closely when removing my panel the other day. Wasn't nearly as hard as I thought it would be.
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Old 12-17-2011, 01:04 PM   #11
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awesome write up...thank you!!!!
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Old 12-17-2011, 02:04 PM   #12
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im not trying to jack your thread but whatever happened to the p2spec door panel removal how to???
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GOBbluth View Post
I cut the tether off. When I get to the pump, I remove the cap and chuck it into the nearest bush, patch of trees, or some sort of wet lands. I pump gas. Then I spend anywhere from 5 to 165 minutes retrieving the cap. I screw it back on and drive away. I'm not letting it dangle against the paint and I don't know any better way.
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Old 12-17-2011, 03:47 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTI_likeurmom View Post
im not trying to jack your thread but whatever happened to the p2spec door panel removal how to???
http://golfmk6.com/forums/showthread...pec+door+panel

Search is your friend....Schooled by the newbie.....
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Old 12-17-2011, 04:25 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuckU2 View Post
http://golfmk6.com/forums/showthread...pec+door+panel

Search is your friend....Schooled by the newbie.....
ok i explain. my computer doesnt work so i surf the web on my ps3, which doesnt work the best. i wasnt sure if the p2spec writeup was still around.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GOBbluth View Post
I cut the tether off. When I get to the pump, I remove the cap and chuck it into the nearest bush, patch of trees, or some sort of wet lands. I pump gas. Then I spend anywhere from 5 to 165 minutes retrieving the cap. I screw it back on and drive away. I'm not letting it dangle against the paint and I don't know any better way.
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