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Old 10-06-2017, 04:09 PM   #183
titan253
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Drives: 2011 TR GTI
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Originally Posted by PunchBuggy View Post
SNIP
I had problems with intermittent stalling on crank, turned out to be a bad battery. A shop originally looked at it and said the voltages were fine, but after it kept happening (and replaced coil packs and a new in-tank fuel pump) I finally took out my voltmeter and sure enough the battery would show 11,10, even as low as 9 volts. Replaced it with OEM and haven't had a problem since
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Old 10-06-2017, 04:59 PM   #184
PunchBuggy
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Drives: 2011 GTI
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Location: Abbotsford British Columbia
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Originally Posted by titan253 View Post
I had problems with intermittent stalling on crank, turned out to be a bad battery. A shop originally looked at it and said the voltages were fine, but after it kept happening (and replaced coil packs and a new in-tank fuel pump) I finally took out my voltmeter and sure enough the battery would show 11,10, even as low as 9 volts. Replaced it with OEM and haven't had a problem since
Thank you I will look into it.
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Old 10-08-2017, 06:24 PM   #185
Sauce118
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Originally Posted by Shieze View Post
Thanks. From your description this is completely controlled by the computer then and should have nothing to do with how long you hold the key.
Actually... I'm not sure what dictates this.. Butt my first 2010 4door GTI would crank on its own (not a push button, but a quick crank of the key would keep the starter engaged until it caught and started properly). That car was totaled unfortunately, and I purchased another 2010, a 2door this time (both 6spds). On the second 2010, I have to hold the key in crank position until the engine starts properly. If I don't hold it the whole time, the starter cuts out just like any old car. Both cars were/are APR tuned, so I am not sure what determines this, but it definitely is not the same for every car.
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