6
Wanting to go Stage 2 ... i've been warned of possible bottom end issues ???
- Thread starter srsmk6
- Start date
theunholy
Go Kart Champion
which dealer did you go to when you have problems with your car?
McFuzz
Go Kart Champion
I went to Winn since I bought from them originally and they did the stage I tune (back when they were an APR dealer). They are pretty mod friendly - as in they will not deny you things that are obviously caused by component failure unrelated to mods or anything else. My car is fairly moded (TBE, intercooler, clutch, LSD, the works basically) and not a single problem so far ::knock on wood::.
theunholy
Go Kart Champion
Good to know, will go there when something comes up... hopefully not lol
NGP Lorton has some good dudes working there.
Tk_mkv1
Go Kart Champion
Ive been there many times, they did my stage 1 tune, clutch install. Plus i enjoy going there just to see the nice audi's and their mk6 r. Plus theyre about 10 minutes away from work. Those guys definetly know whats up with our cars
Tk_mkv1
Go Kart Champion
First i never did stage 2, but stage 2 isnt much of an upgrade as stock to stage 1, stage 2 makes the stage 1 more linear and wide powerband all the way up to redline, kinda like a high revving n/a engine, if manual, please save money for clutch, youll need it. I recommend southbend stage 3 drop in disk, only $400.
Also if you go to ngp, they can be booked
up to 2 weeks so ask for quote by email.
fast2ghl
Ready to race!
No problems on stage 2 what so ever, have 40,000km on my stage 2 FBO setup as well, and it gets its fair share of beatings. Everyone above is correct. If you were Stage 3+ then you can begin to worry about bottom end stuff but even then, the bottom end is still fine.
Stage 1 to 2 is not really a massive difference in power, more so in the way its delivered. Its stronger up top and pulls harder all the way to redline rather then dying like stage 1 does. The more bolt ons you have with stage 2 the more power you will make but again its not really a massive difference over 1. If you want that crazy OMG feeling again like stock to stage 1 you need k04 or bigger.
Unitronic vs APR is really going to be a personal thing... Both have great software for stage 2 it really just comes down to availability in your area. I've been UNI since day one and had no issues at all, car is really strong (specially in the 1 degree weather we are having now
). If I had to choose for K04 or larger software though? I'd probably head towards APR.... Just my thoughts. Both are good.
Stage 1 to 2 is not really a massive difference in power, more so in the way its delivered. Its stronger up top and pulls harder all the way to redline rather then dying like stage 1 does. The more bolt ons you have with stage 2 the more power you will make but again its not really a massive difference over 1. If you want that crazy OMG feeling again like stock to stage 1 you need k04 or bigger.
Unitronic vs APR is really going to be a personal thing... Both have great software for stage 2 it really just comes down to availability in your area. I've been UNI since day one and had no issues at all, car is really strong (specially in the 1 degree weather we are having now
). If I had to choose for K04 or larger software though? I'd probably head towards APR.... Just my thoughts. Both are good.
fast2ghl
Ready to race!
The following is what I have;
- FMIC
- Big bore aluminum boost pipes
- 3" turbo back catless
- Full stage 2 intake (Apr 1+2)
That's it for the real power mods. There's other stuff "bolted on" like full PCV/catch can system replacement, Audi R8 coil packs, trans/motor mounts etc, etc... But I consider a FBO to be what I listed above as those are the main bolt ons for power.
Hope this helps.
nevekd128
Ready to race!
i doubt 2 psi will do anything seeing as how you're stage 1 anyhow
Injen1us
Drag Race Newbie
A couple things... first this:
Unit tends to have the best numbers and a solid tune. But more than huge numbers there is also power delivery. I think DM makes the best looking tq curve personally. APR has loads of R&D and therefore commonly considered more reliable.
Secondly, 20psi is not going to blow the motor. Predominately because its just air pressure meant to increase intake air density in effort to map a more efficient/powerful tune. The tune running too lean is what would be more likely to cause the damage youre referring to in the original post. If the added 2psi you get pops anything its going to be your boost hoses that are poorly secure (if they are poorly secure). Almost everyone on this forum with a k04 is running stock internals and pushing 25-29psi. F23 guys push 30psi. Even alot of the BT guys are pushing 30+; still on stock internals. Youre gonna be fine on stage 2.
If you should be worried about anything on stage 2 it should be:
-What clutch am i going to buy 15k miles down the road
-What FMIC am i going to get to get max power/efficiency out of the tune
Unit tends to have the best numbers and a solid tune. But more than huge numbers there is also power delivery. I think DM makes the best looking tq curve personally. APR has loads of R&D and therefore commonly considered more reliable.
Secondly, 20psi is not going to blow the motor. Predominately because its just air pressure meant to increase intake air density in effort to map a more efficient/powerful tune. The tune running too lean is what would be more likely to cause the damage youre referring to in the original post. If the added 2psi you get pops anything its going to be your boost hoses that are poorly secure (if they are poorly secure). Almost everyone on this forum with a k04 is running stock internals and pushing 25-29psi. F23 guys push 30psi. Even alot of the BT guys are pushing 30+; still on stock internals. Youre gonna be fine on stage 2.
If you should be worried about anything on stage 2 it should be:
-What clutch am i going to buy 15k miles down the road
-What FMIC am i going to get to get max power/efficiency out of the tune