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Most comfortable shocks ?

MrFancypants

Autocross Champion
There are disadvantages of inverted monotube that you may not like. For example, due to requiring high pressure gas it’s easy to lose the smooth ride you want. Run some Google searches on the B6/B8s for the MkV and you’ll come across an endless stream of complaints regarding how harsh they are. I believe it was Neuspeed that spec’d them differently for the MkVI, and as I understand it the valving in the Bilsteins they sell is much nicer.

Another disadvantage that I dislike is that due to being inverted, I don’t have easy access to the bumpstops. So I can’t add or remove packers if I want to fine tune my car’s handling balance.

Twin tube Konis are also a bit cheaper. I got my set for about $150 less.

With effort the Bilsteins are definitely the more capable damper, but if you get them on the car and you hate them they have to come back off to be adjusted. If you’re shooting for perfect, they’re what you want.
 

MrFancypants

Autocross Champion
Here's a question .... For the B6/B8, how does the OE bumpstop fit the bigger tube?

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I was typing my last post as you posted that... the answer is that the OE bumpstops aren’t used. Bilsteins have bumpstops that are internal, so the damper has to be partially disassembled to change them.
 

snobrdrdan

former GTI owner
I had koni yellows for a few years, They are adjustable so you can make them stiff if you want, or loosen them up and they are great on the street. They are what I most frequently recommend for street cars.

x2 on this, either the Sports or the STr.T's

Bilsteins will be stiffer
 

TimS

Go Kart Newbie
Here's a question .... For the B6/B8, how does the OE bumpstop fit the bigger tube?

You don't really need to use them, but you can. The piston narrows at the top to fit the mount, and the narrowed section is long enough to fit the bump stop (but it's just there to take up space, since the internal stops do the work). The rears are the same diameter as stock, so that's not an issue.



I switched from Koni FSD (stock replacement) to Bilstein B8s with VWR springs, and the Bilsteins are a better match for the springs. The ride is much better than the FSD; you definitely feel the road, but it's not harsh at all. All the bounciness is gone and it's still perfectly comfortable for long highway hauls.
 
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OEMPL+S

Go Kart Newbie
Check your bumpstops. If they’re stock length on a lowered car they’re probably engaging and quickly ramping up your spring rate every time you hit a bump, leading to an awful ride.

If this is the case there are “sport” replacement bumpstops you can get that are just over a half an inch shorter with a similarly gentle progressive increase in rate.

VW part numbers...
Front: 1K0 412 303 F
Rear: 1K0 511 353 N

If I had to guess I’d say that it’s the tears that are causing you trouble, as they’re nearly in use at stock ride height. If you lower the car an inch and don’t cut them or replace them they’ll be compressed roughly a half an inch. This may also cause the car to have a bit of a forward rake.
Danke.

I need these part numbers .... Gonna order the rear short ones.

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OEMPL+S

Go Kart Newbie
Okay here's an idea .... I'm removing my front lca polybushings and installing OE and rear RS3/TTRS type solid febi bushings .... I've already pressed then into my old housings and will get them installed when I have the car in for service next.

Basically this should help with the ride somewhat.

Bow another thing .... Since I installed my H&R front and rear sway bars about 2 years ago I have always run them on stiff....

Is this my issue ^^ ?

Is running my sways to stiff contributing to my overly rough ride?

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jay745

What Would Glenn Danzig Do
Okay here's an idea .... I'm removing my front lca polybushings and installing OE and rear RS3/TTRS type solid febi bushings .... I've already pressed then into my old housings and will get them installed when I have the car in for service next.

Basically this should help with the ride somewhat.

Bow another thing .... Since I installed my H&R front and rear sway bars about 2 years ago I have always run them on stiff....

Is this my issue ^^ ?

Is running my sways to stiff contributing to my overly rough ride?

Sent from my DEVICE using Tapacar
The sway bar settings shouldnt matter in terms of a rough ride. At a resting or straight line you don't have any load on them. I'd attribute the rough ride to the oem R struts/shocks paired with lowering springs.
 

TimS

Go Kart Newbie
Okay here's an idea .... I'm removing my front lca polybushings and installing OE and rear RS3/TTRS type solid febi bushings .... I've already pressed then into my old housings and will get them installed when I have the car in for service next.
I did this and didn't really notice much difference in ride quality. Road noise is a little quieter now, though.

Bow another thing .... Since I installed my H&R front and rear sway bars about 2 years ago I have always run them on stiff....

Is this my issue ^^ ?

Is running my sways to stiff contributing to my overly rough ride?

Sent from my DEVICE using Tapacar

The only time sway bars affect ride quality is over uneven bumps or if you approach a bump/dip at an angle.
 

OEMPL+S

Go Kart Newbie
The sway bar settings shouldnt matter in terms of a rough ride. At a resting or straight line you don't have any load on them. I'd attribute the rough ride to the oem R struts/shocks paired with lowering springs.
It's only on uneven roads .... The side to side is rough. Overly reactive and jounces.

I'm running eibach linear springs that are about 10% stiffer.

Why would the R struts create any issue?

I thought they would be fine considering lots of R owners have used them for lowering ....

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OEMPL+S

Go Kart Newbie
I did this and didn't really notice much difference in ride quality. Road noise is a little quieter now, though.



The only time sway bars affect ride quality is over uneven bumps or if you approach a bump/dip at an angle.

Heck .... So that's not gonna help me much .... Well at least I won't have to grease them anymore.

Well there is a lot of uneven roads in Ontario .... Staggered bumps and cracks .... Otherwise on a new road the suspension is fine .... But any one that hasn't been redone in years is just hell.

Maybe I will set my sway bars on soft and maybe I'll just revert back to stock springs ....

I highly doubt it's the dampers .... I'm not even lowered that much and the springs are linear.

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jay745

What Would Glenn Danzig Do
It's only on uneven roads .... The side to side is rough. Overly reactive and jounces.

I'm running eibach linear springs that are about 10% stiffer.

Why would the R struts create any issue?

I thought they would be fine considering lots of R owners have used them for lowering ....

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OEM struts with lowering springs will eventually turn really bouncy.
 

OEMPL+S

Go Kart Newbie
OEM struts with lowering springs will eventually turn really bouncy.
Ya but they only have about 10,000 on them max

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OEMPL+S

Go Kart Newbie
Word man. Just trying to help, not trying to argue with you. Seems like you know everything, good luck.
Sorry I'm not trying to argue .... I appreciate your input.

My lack of knowing anything is what got me this crashy ride .... If I knew/was smart I shoulda left the stock struts and springs, except for the 4x4 look.

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Blakcard

Autocross Newbie
Lots of great folks on here with tons of experience swapping in/out different suspension mods. Lots and lots to read. I'm in the same boat looking for a suspension refresh. Still on stock set up after 257K and it's getting musssssshy. I have the VMR springs gathering dust in the basement as I don't know what struts/shocks to get however I'm leaning towards Koni Yellow's.. .with our Toronto roads/hwy's still pretty crappy I want to install and forget it even though I really want the Bilsteins.
 
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