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TSI Intake Manifold Removal DIY + Valve Cleaning
- Thread starter steelcurtain
- Start date
Cryptic19111
Go Kart Champion
I think I used a swivel adapter and an allen socket on an extension.. something like that. It's a bitch to get to
Finally got throttle body off which allowed me to get to the lower manifold bolts. I thought i removed everything but the manifold wont come out. Gotta go through the photos again. I already removed 5 top bolts, two lower, two lower nuts, and tripple square nut. Any ideas?
Reread all the posts in the thread and saw someone had the same problem. I feel like im pulling on this thing pretty hard and am worried about breaking something. Should i just yank on it?
Reread all the posts in the thread and saw someone had the same problem. I feel like im pulling on this thing pretty hard and am worried about breaking something. Should i just yank on it?
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nvturbo
Go Kart Champion
You should have left the TB on the intake manifold. Remove the charge pipe and coupling hose at the TB....along with disconnecting the plugs of course.
IF all the plugs are removed, you have to "pull/yank" the I/M until it is separated from the cylinder head. DO NOT PRY it off with a screwdriver. There's no need for that. If you look closely, you can literally see all the plugs that are connected to the wire harness that comes from the driver side of the car. There is one plug on the right side of the I/M. I believe it's for the flapper control or something. You'll see what I'm referring to. It has to be unplugged as well.
The only thing you need to get from underneath is the plastic skidplate and charge pipe. Other than that, everything is from above.
I'm guessing you're talking about the triple square #10 long bolt at the bottom of the I/M bracket? You can get to the bolt if you use a 4" extension and the triple square bit. Just go to the right of the coolant and AC refrigerant lines. I tried using a swivel adapter and it was impossible. The method I mention worked for me.
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Thanks. I had 1 or 2 harnesses to disconnect but my biggest problem was that I forgot to disconnect fuel hard pipe from pump. Still had to wrestle with the manifold pretty good to get it off and one injector stuck in the rail. Hopefully everything goes together easier than it came apart but I doubt it.
nvturbo
Go Kart Champion
For the fuel line, I put a towel underneath the manifold, loosened up the 17mm nut (under the I/M) and let the fuel drain. Then I loosened and removed the 17mm nut on the other end (right side of the engine valve cover).
Re-install is simple. Just make sure not to pinch the injector wires (especially between #1 and #2). DON'T FORGET the metal clips that surround the injectors....if they were removed.
Re-install is simple. Just make sure not to pinch the injector wires (especially between #1 and #2). DON'T FORGET the metal clips that surround the injectors....if they were removed.
Reinstall was definitely easier. Got everything back together today without a hitch. Car started up and runs much better.
Only problem is the CEL is still on. I drove around for about 30 minutes, parking and turning engine on and off about 6-8 times along the way thinking that the light would go off over time. I also tried to have Advanced Auto clear my codes but they only read codes. Same ones came up as before... P2015 and a few misfires.
I read that if you disconnect battery it will clear codes (mine was disconnected overnight). And also read that if you turn wheel from lock to lock that can work as well. Neither of these cleared them. Does it just take a few days of driving or what?
Any locals that can clear these for me? Thanks guys.
Only problem is the CEL is still on. I drove around for about 30 minutes, parking and turning engine on and off about 6-8 times along the way thinking that the light would go off over time. I also tried to have Advanced Auto clear my codes but they only read codes. Same ones came up as before... P2015 and a few misfires.
I read that if you disconnect battery it will clear codes (mine was disconnected overnight). And also read that if you turn wheel from lock to lock that can work as well. Neither of these cleared them. Does it just take a few days of driving or what?
Any locals that can clear these for me? Thanks guys.
have you checked to make sure all sensor/electrical cables have been correctly plugged in, P2015 intake manifold runner flap position, may also be mechanical as in something done when the intake was off....port dividers. Need to Vag Com it to get associated codes hopefully some one local will pipe up.
I just replaced the entire manifold with a brand new one and the code is still there. The flapper control was definite broken in the old one. The round piece that inserts into the mani kept popping out.
I ordered a wifi OBD2 dongle on amazon and I'll be downloading Dash Command for my iPhone... so we'll see I guess.
No I didn't and hopefully that's the case. I'm used to working on older cars and I believe they always cleared themselves once the issue was resolved. Got my OBD2 dongle today so just need to find some time to get it working with my phone.
Nitron
Ready to race!
What's the status of this? Code light still on?