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Old 10-16-2018, 03:58 PM   #43849
ACHILLES R32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stg1needed View Post
That's what I was figuring, it was definitely the stock battery. Come to think of it, it was cranking slowly compared to my past vehicles but as the vehicle is new to me "2weeks" didn't think anything of it. Guess that makes sense as to why I got a code for de-energized performance to early ecm power relay code.
If you have a Costco membership the interstate h6 battery they sell fits perfectly . Has a #29 on the side . It's $120 after tax

Replaced my this past weekend

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Old 10-17-2018, 01:50 PM   #43850
Short Bus
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Did a quick toe adjustment... rear toe is still perfect so my thrust angle should be good. The front toe is now set at 1/16" total toe out, or 1/32 (.07 degrees) toe out per wheel.

I lost my carpenter square and I can't find my digital angle finder so I can't check the camber, but when one of those things shows up if I see that my camber is "close enough" I may not even bother with an expensive rack alignment.

Install complete:

Eibach Pro-Kit springs (paired with Koni Sport struts, as installed previously)
Eibach 26/23 mm ARBs (currently set to soft)
Meyle HD front ARB links
B6 Passat/CC/S3 spindles
ECS subframe collar kit
FAG front wheel bearings
B6 Passat/CC/S3 Lemforder ball joints
Lemforder tie rod ends

Other suspension upgrades previously installed: Audi TT control arm bushings, ECS upper strut mounts, Koni Sport struts

It goes straight down the road and initial impressions on how it handles are positive. The car rides about the same as it did before, maybe even a touch better, but I haven't had it on any bad roads yet.

I took my time installing all of this stuff and it looks like that time paid off. It all went on right the first time; no odd clunks or noises or other problems to speak of, it drives as it should.
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Old 10-17-2018, 05:57 PM   #43851
Jack Sparrow
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Bought the Sony XAV-AX5000 head unit. Will install this week and post pictures.
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Old 10-18-2018, 01:02 PM   #43852
fbgmoney
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Will be attempting to change my rear rotors and pads for the first time after 91.5k miles. Wish me luck.
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Old 10-18-2018, 01:45 PM   #43853
uglybastard
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good luck
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Old 10-18-2018, 01:55 PM   #43854
riceburner
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91000 miles on stock rotors and pads??
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Old 10-18-2018, 02:01 PM   #43855
Phur
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fbgmoney View Post
Will be attempting to change my rear rotors and pads for the first time after 91.5k miles. Wish me luck.


Auto parts stores have the caliper piston tool sets available as a loaner.


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Old 10-18-2018, 03:33 PM   #43856
Short Bus
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Originally Posted by fbgmoney View Post
Will be attempting to change my rear rotors and pads for the first time after 91.5k miles. Wish me luck.
I hope you've got a breaker bar. I couldn't even figure out how to get my compact electric impact in to remove the carrier bolts. Breaker bar made it pretty easy though.
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Old 10-18-2018, 04:07 PM   #43857
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I hope you've got a breaker bar. I couldn't even figure out how to get my compact electric impact in to remove the carrier bolts. Breaker bar made it pretty easy though.
What he said^

Also get your car up as high as you can on stands to get longer breaker bar in there. Goodluck.

PB blaster perhaps
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Old 10-18-2018, 04:09 PM   #43858
fbgmoney
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Originally Posted by riceburner View Post
91000 miles on stock rotors and pads??
Yup. I guess I don't use the brakes. Do you think it's worth it to buy a torque wrench for installing the carrier bolts? I don't have anything that measures that high. My plan now it to torque all I can torque.

I'm bought that caliper piston retractor set because I like having useless tools I guess.
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Old 10-18-2018, 04:10 PM   #43859
davisharr
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Originally Posted by pdan View Post
Holy balls, how do you guys who have always lived in cold climates get under and work on the car outside when its 40 degrees outside?? Or do you just not, unless its in a garage?? Need to re-attach my front lip, figured out apparently I need to remove the OEM front splash guard....who knew it wasnt just 4 bolts into existing holes. Of which I only put in 3.....
I installed my front lip in -25 deg C (-13f for you non metric guys), laying in the snow on my back. LOL. Biggest struggle was making sure jack stands where on solid ground not a layer of ice. It sucks but you do what you have to do when your a car guy! And you learn some good tricks of the trade, like always wear a toque to keep body heat in, and disposable nitrile rubber gloves over small thin wool gloves makes a warm waterproof shield that still gives you some dexterity!
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Old 10-18-2018, 04:11 PM   #43860
franco516
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Originally Posted by fbgmoney View Post
Will be attempting to change my rear rotors and pads for the first time after 91.5k miles. Wish me luck.
were on long island are you at?
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Old 10-18-2018, 04:12 PM   #43861
Phur
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I got a 1-1/2 breaker bar and was able to get mine loose without even getting under the car. I stayed next to it. I dont have jackstands and have a gravel driveway. I was just using the factory jack, one wheel at a time. No penetrating fluid was needed for the carrier bolts but came in very handy for the rotors.


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Old 10-18-2018, 04:21 PM   #43862
fbgmoney
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were on long island are you at?
I live in Long Beach but am house sitting for my parents this weekend in Northport AKA using their garage. Where abouts are you?
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