Brake bleeding questions

HI-life-GTI said:

Copied/Pasted from ALLdata

On vehicles with Electronic Differential Lock (EDL), EDL/Anti-Slip Regulation (ASR) or EDL/ASR/Electronic Stabilization Program (ESP), the brake system must be pre-bled when a chamber in the brake fluid reservoir is completely empty. This will happen if there are leaks in the brake system.

Pre-Bleeding



Connect the (VAS 5234) or (V.A.G 1869 ).
Bleeding sequence:

1 - Bleed the left front and right front brake calipers simultaneously

2 - Bleed the left rear and right rear brake caliper together simultaneously



With the bleeder bottle hoses attached, leave the bleeder valves open long enough that brake fluid exits without bubbles.
Then, the brake system must be bled normally
Bleeding

Adhere strictly to the work sequence when bleeding the brake system.



Connect the (VAS 5234) or (V.A.G 1869 ).
Open the bleeder valves in the sequence below and bleed the brake calipers.
1- Left front

2 - Right front

3 - Left rear

4 - Right rear

Use a suitable bleeder hose. It must fit tightly on the valve so that no air gets into the brake system.



With the bleeder bottle hose attached, leave the valve open long enough that brake fluid exits without bubbles.
Post-Bleeding

A second mechanic is required to assist:



Press the brake pedal forcefully and hold.
Open the bleeder valve at the brake caliper.
Press the brake pedal down to the floor.
Close the bleed valve when the brake pedal is pushed down all the way.
Release the brake pedal slowly.
This bleeding procedure must be performed 5 times per brake caliper.

Bleeding sequence:

1- Left front

2 - Right front

3 - Left rear

4 - Right rear

A road test must be performed after bleeding. During this, at least one ABS regulation stop must be performed!

Click to expand...

Can someone explain the Bold Type Part Above??

Also how would this be done with a Motive pressure bleeder

Going to be doing this real soon and need an explaination asap

estepnie said:

Bumping an old thread but is what I bolded above really necessary when doing a flush?

Click to expand...

Pay attention to the first sentence, it relates to the first process.

When a chamber in the fluid reservoir is EMPTY.

I have never emptied the reservoir (generally this is only after a cylinder replacement).

When I upgraded my brake lines I did not do the first part with simultaneous bleeding but my reservoir also was not empty.

The bleeding order listed is correct however, that is the order I used and have found all over the internet confirming it for these cars.

I have no idea about the VAS and VAG listings, assuming they are just manufacture specific tools. A quick google search shows this is correct, a specific form of bleeder.

I used the power bleeder from ECS with the one way valve catch bottle and did the bleeding solo with that, used 3-4 quarts IIRC to make sure the entire system was flushed as I was upgrading to high performance fluid.

I do not recall doing the last part with the 5 cycles per caliper, but it has been years since I did it. I asked my wife as she has a better memory if I had her help with the bleeding and she said yes, so obviously I did do the last part (it sounded familiar, I just didn't remember until I saw it written here).

So in answer to your question, yes, yes you do need to do the last process. ALLDATA collects the information from the manufacturer's so if they say do it.....you should.

Remember, these cars have all manner of ABS controllers and other units to control the ESP, EDL, ect, ect it's not like the old dumb brake systems. Each stage of the system has to be cleared and pulsed.

Thumper said:

Pay attention to the first sentence, it relates to the first process.

When a chamber in the fluid reservoir is EMPTY.

I have never emptied the reservoir (generally this is only after a cylinder replacement).

When I upgraded my brake lines I did not do the first part with simultaneous bleeding but my reservoir also was not empty.

The bleeding order listed is correct however, that is the order I used and have found all over the internet confirming it for these cars.

I have no idea about the VAS and VAG listings, assuming they are just manufacture specific tools. A quick google search shows this is correct, a specific form of bleeder.

I used the power bleeder from ECS with the one way valve catch bottle and did the bleeding solo with that, used 3-4 quarts IIRC to make sure the entire system was flushed as I was upgrading to high performance fluid.

I do not recall doing the last part with the 5 cycles per caliper, but it has been years since I did it. I asked my wife as she has a better memory if I had her help with the bleeding and she said yes, so obviously I did do the last part (it sounded familiar, I just didn't remember until I saw it written here).

So in answer to your question, yes, yes you do need to do the last process. ALLDATA collects the information from the manufacturer's so if they say do it.....you should.

Remember, these cars have all manner of ABS controllers and other units to control the ESP, EDL, ect, ect it's not like the old dumb brake systems. Each stage of the system has to be cleared and pulsed.

Click to expand...

I'm going to do the whole process As I may have let the fluid level get to low in the process of changing out the brake lines (we'll see how it goes on Friday) My Chilton Manual aside from agreeing with All Data on the proper sequence for bleeding mentioned something about (if you continue to have a spongy pedal after repeated bleedings you may have Air in the ABS and you'll need to tow it too the dealer to get that done!!!!)

"Thumper" when you refer to quarts are referring to actual quarts or liters as most Foreign performance brands sell it in liters (Don't want to run out of fluid while bleeding the brakes (got all of my parts from tire rack except for the tyrol sport kit) and I've already gone through 2 of 4 liters








Question Thumper Do you have to do any sort of Vag-Com during or afterwards? and should the ignition be on or off during the bleeding process??

JT64 said:

"Thumper" when you refer to quarts are referring to actual quarts or liters as most Foreign performance brands sell it in liters (Don't want to run out of fluid while bleeding the brakes (got all of my parts from tire rack except for the tyrol sport kit) and I've already gone through 2 of 4 liters



Question Thumper Do you have to do any sort of Vag-Com during or afterwards? and should the ignition be on or off during the bleeding process??

Click to expand...

Liters, quarts, whatever LOL

I checked my history, this is what I used; 3 bottles

https://www.ecstuning.com/ES261392/


So technically I only used 1.5 liters, you're already half a liter over what I used. And when I was doing it clean fluid started coming out before I was done but I went ahead and used it all just to be 100% sure all the old was out.

No idea on the ABS bleeding, I had no issues (did you have the cap off the reservoir when you removed the lines? I think people have said the reservoir drained when they did that.).

I did not have to use VCDS for anything after, and I am sure my ignition was off as no reason to have it on.

Thumper said:

Liters, quarts, whatever LOL

I checked my history, this is what I used; 3 bottles

https://www.ecstuning.com/ES261392/


So technically I only used 1.5 liters, you're already half a liter over what I used. And when I was doing it clean fluid started coming out before I was done but I went ahead and used it all just to be 100% sure all the old was out.

No idea on the ABS bleeding, I had no issues (did you have the cap off the reservoir when you removed the lines? I think people have said the reservoir drained when they did that.).

I did not have to use VCDS for anything after, and I am sure my ignition was off as no reason to have it on.

Click to expand...

Didn't have the cap on the master cylinder off initially but I did loosen it thinking it would keep brake fluid from coming out at a higher rate which it did. But when I did check it after we were done replacing everything it was almost empty.

Just going to follow that all data info and hopefully it works out fine.

Hey Thumper I ran into a weird problem Using the pressure bleeder we continued to get air coming out each bleeder to the point I used a ridiculous amount of brake fluid We checked and rechecked all the connections and lines and it continued to do the same thing So we gave up and bled it pumping the pedal which worked just fine. You ever run into that using your pressure bleeder.

Also this is what this shop told me but I still cat figure it out :iono:

Conversation started Tuesday




James Thomas

7/5, 12:12pm



James Thomas




Wondering if you can help me I'm having an issue after upgrading the brakes on my MK6 GTI. I upgraded using stoptech pads rotors and lines. The issue I'm having pertains to bleeding the brakes with the use of a motive pressure bleeder and that I continue to get air bubbles so much so that we used a ridiculous amount of brake fluid and ended up bleeding the brakes using the 2 man method which kind of worked but the pedal feels soft even though it stops good. What am I Missing Please help



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Futrell Autowerks

7/5, 1:52pm



Futrell Autowerks




Line changes can be tricky, you could try purging the air at the distribution block by cracking the lines while they are under pressure, that helps. There's also an adaptation channel to have the ABS assist with brake bleeding. HTH-



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James Thomas

7/5, 2:53pm



James Thomas




Thanks for getting back to me. I don't quite understand the last part regarding the ABS Please elaborate.



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Futrell Autowerks

7/5, 3:18pm



Futrell Autowerks




Do you have Ross Tech? There's an adaptation channel to assist with brake bleeding.



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James Thomas

7/5, 3:43pm



James Thomas




Yes I do have Ross Tech



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Futrell Autowerks

7/5, 4:17pm



Futrell Autowerks




Check the wiki on brake bleeding w/Ross Tech-



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James Thomas

7/5, 4:50pm



James Thomas




Ok thanks



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James Thomas

7/5, 7:18pm



James Thomas




Ok Which one of these is it http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Diagnostic_Procedures#Volkswagen



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Volkswagen - Diagnostic Procedures - Ross-Tech Wiki

The following pages contain information about various car models, each page covering a generation such as Audi A3/S3 (8L) 1997 - 2003. In this case, Audi is the manufacturer, the model may be A3 or S3 and the chassis code in parentheses is 8L. This chassis code can be found in VIN digits 7&8. The ye...

wiki.ross-tech.com

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James Thomas

7/5, 7:22pm



James Thomas




Also will I get a check engine light if the ABS isn't working properly or A code if run Auto Scan in VCDS to check for codes



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Wednesday




Futrell Autowerks

7/6, 9:10am



Futrell Autowerks




Sorry I dont personally know, I just know thats one of the tools used when they bleed a system.

Think I figured it out step 1 ABS Brakes 2 Basic Settings 3 in the drop down menu select brake bleeding and basically follow the directions doing one wheel at a time you will need a partner to do this, It's basically like in this video starting at 6:41 https://youtu.be/EkmKGptc4rM?t=6m41s When I get around to doing it myself I'll do a thorough step by step which will probably be in a few weeks?