GOLFMK8
GOLFMK7
GOLFMK6
GOLFMKV

APR Presents the MK6 Oil Catch Can System

zia

Passed Driver's Ed
That's nothing for 1K miles, either it's not pulling out enough or you have nearly 0 blow-by.



Really?! Anything to be concerned about? Or just be glad my Italian tuneup is working :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

vwgti2.0t

Go Kart Champion
Not sure I posted a pic here, but I bought this a few weeks ago too. Really like it so far. Usually drain it every other time I get gas and getting most water mixed with a little oil out. The quick drain and hose makes it super easy.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

a3scott20

Ready to race!
I was having big exhaust smoking (at idle only) after APR CC installed, anyone experienced?

But, it is normal now with no smoking after I rerouted the front PCV hose, which I did it as OEM- Front PCV port connects to intake manifold.
I took out the plug (APR provided) from rear PCV port and use another hose connecting rear PCV port with APR catch can port, then no smoking anymore.
 

HYDE161

Go Kart Champion
I was having big exhaust smoking (at idle only) after APR CC installed, anyone experienced?

But, it is normal now with no smoking after I rerouted the front PCV hose, which I did it as OEM- Front PCV port connects to intake manifold.
I took out the plug (APR provided) from rear PCV port and use another hose connecting rear PCV port with APR catch can port, then no smoking anymore.

So you made the APR CC layout like the ECS CC layout but reconnected the vacuum source from the intake manifold to the front of the PCV plate? This is the setup I run and crankcase pressures are a non-issue.
 

a3scott20

Ready to race!
So you made the APR CC layout like the ECS CC layout but reconnected the vacuum source from the intake manifold to the front of the PCV plate? This is the setup I run and crankcase pressures are a non-issue.

Yes I'm running exactly what you have mentioned with no smoking. It is really weird that some of my friends runs fine with APR CC but mine is not. With new PCV it is no change.
 

LaRayes

New member
i am running APR stage 2 intake pipe and the rear pcv hose connection with the pipe is a bad fit that leaks oil, I really want to fix this issue. Is the pcv connection on the intake pipe blocked off? and where does the long hose connect in the back? since if it connects to the same APR intake pipe it will not be a good fit with the OEM connector. any help would be much appreciated.
 

Lazer 100

Ready to race!
The can is designed to trap the junk, so hopefully nothing gets by but cleaner gasses. It's catching the gunk as much as possible to prevent it from getting into your intake directly.

You can't run the can to the manifold alone. Think about how the engine works when there's boost pressure. Boost would go from manifold -> leak into can, pressurizing it -> blast full force into the PCV system.

All the pressure building up in your crankcase at that point would have nowhere to go. Remember, the gasses in the crankcase build up much faster when you're boosting the engine hard. So, they can only go slipping past the rings, or maybe blow up the PCV and blasting out the rear plug if not alleviated. In that scenario, the can would only work when you're off the throttle, so no good.



I believe so. There is an engine removal hook that would need to be removed, then the edge may be trimmed to fit.

@arin@apr

I understand that catch cans are good for keeping unwanted gasses etc... out of unwanted places, which is great, but the problem I'm having isn't so much with the gasses. When I autocross all of the oil sloshes around in my crankcase and is making is way into my intake manifold, which in turn gets burnt off when I restart the engine.

I'm APR all the way and would prefer to get this catch can, but if I'm understanding the layout/diagram properly, the APR catch can wouldn't solve this problem whereas catch cans with a pcv delete would.

Is this correct, or am I just an idiot and misunderstanding the diagram?
 

Arin@APR

GOLFMK7 Official Sponsor
It's probably just not clear. The PCV is retained, which means the fine and coarse oil seperation still takes place, sending oil back into the pan. We block off the rear port, so no oil barfs into the intake, pre turbo. Then in the front it goes from the PCV, to the can, to the intake manifold. Anything barfed into the manifold, now barfs into the can.
 

Lazer 100

Ready to race!
Got it. So I'll probably just have to empty it a couple of times over the weekend.

I'll have at least 1 event before I'm able to get one and install it, am I running a huge risk by letting oil get past the pcv valve, which I'm pretty sure is broken anyway?

Also, would it be a good idea to still replace the broken pcv valve after I install the catch can, or does it make any difference since everything is getting sorted out via the catch can?

Thanks for the help.
 

leiito1

Go Kart Champion
Sry for bumping an old thread, but can this setup work with a BSH boost tap? Don’t think it’s threaded. Would one of those expanding plugs work well in this spot? I’d be afraid of it getting sucked in!
 

Grabbit

Go Kart Champion
Boost. The front and rear tubes are linked, but operate with check valves in place to ensure they can't see boost pressure when stock.


While this is true I still see a potential issue with running a catch can with the front and rear lines configured this way while still utilizing the OEM PCV setup. In a completely stock car at idle, the vacuum in the intake manifold pulls in fresh air via the front (manifold) line through the PCV from the rear line connected to the intake pipe just before the turbo. When a completely stock engine produces boost it closes the check valve connected to the front (manifold) line of the OEM PCV and the engine then draws the crankcase vapors through the rear hose connected to the intake pipe, effectively reversing the direction of flow between idle and boost conditions. With the modified routing of the APR CC setup (and other CC manufacturers), there is no fresh air being drawn into the crankcase at idle. Would this not cause a slight pull or vacuum in the crankcase at idle thus stressing the seals over time? Perhaps this pressure is negligible or I'm just flat out wrong? I've always been paranoid about the all-too common RMS failure and I really don't want to pull the trans to replace it. If that happened I would have no excuse not to do an LSD, clutch packs, flywheel and TCU tune at that point right?



I hope you follow me on this..... I'm hoping I'm missing something somewhere with how this works but I've played around with several new and used PCV units to figure out how it works. I really want to find the best fix to prevent oil build up in the intake track. I've pulled the boost tubes several times for random maintenance and oil has always been present. When I did a carbon clean I ended up replacing the factory intake manifold with the latest revision because so much oil was caked on the inside I didn't want to waste a bunch of time attempting to clean it all out.
 
Top