DTC-60 on stock rotors ?! LOL

I really don't get how some companies make and sell parts that are not fit for the use that they were designed for. So after having had a bad track day with my GTI (on stock rotor and Hawk HP Plus pads) I gave a try to the DTC-60 and stoptech slotted rotors. What a mistake ! I through out $600, a total waste. So I had another bad track day.

While the HP Plus lasts only 800 yrds the DTC-60 lasts 2-3 laps but after the brakes are gone.

The advantage of the HP Plus that I can feel easier the heat problem and limit caliper temperature to 600F by using brakes a bit less. so my pace is still good and I can follow the pack.

With the DCT-60 caliper temperature is up to 900F (measured after the cool down lap). Once caliper reaches 900F the performance drops suddenly (1-2 turns) and brakes won't come back. I need like 3 cool down laps to have them back.

PS: My dust shield are removed and brake fluid hold really well.


Both Stoptech and Zimmerman are top quality rotors but they are undersized.

The GTI chassis is amazing, I can hold up against GT class cars but the brakes are like anchors holding back the car on all 4 wheels.

So why Hawk makes DTC-60 for the stock calipers ?!?! they can' handle the heat. It is a total melt down.

Question for you track rats: What is the best rotor and caliper upgrade that really works on track, I am not looking for cosmetic upgrade.

I tracked 3 times with DTC-60 on stock rotors and haven't had any problems yet. Maybe try trail-braking rather than slamming on the brakes at the last second?

You are right going into the ABS makes things worst. And I am on street tries so it shouldn't be so hard on the brakes. I extensively trail braking but above 120mph nothing to do after 2-3 laps my brakes are gone. My car is empty I removed everything from inside.

On my old BMW 330 track car the stock brakes were able to handle slicks, but on the noise heavy GTI the little front brakes limit pretty much the top speed.

You're running at a track where you can get your K03 GTI to speeds over 120 mph?

You have special needs. I would go with a big brake kit and ventilation that directs air to the rear center of the rotor. If that doesn't fix it nothing will.

We have 3 local tracks where I easily hit 130mph : Tremblant, Calabogie, Mosport.

I was comparing rotor sizes and the GTI's rotors are not so small but the stock GTI will covers 70% or the where hub area. The stock GTI wheels are very restrictif.

On my track BMW I had the Kosei K1 wheels which only covers 5% of the hub area !

So maybe I should buy 4 of these Kosei K1 wheels and use cooling duck.

I used to use Endless CCRg with AP racing rotors, superb braking - 203kmh to 60kmh in less than 100 meters (street tyres), no symptoms of fading after 5-6 laps. BUT they too hunger with those rotors. Now downgrade to MX72, not tested on track yet.

like i said in your previous thread, your results are not typical. i track on hp+ pads and have no issues with stock sized rotors (DBA slotted). that being said, i have a big turbo and hit 120 on the straight at my local track so if you hit 130 on a stock turbo you must have a 10 mile track at your disposal. i aint mad. but the only upgrade from there is a big brake kit, and from my research you have two options to keep costs down:
1. Stoptech 17z kit
2. Piece together a cayenne setup from ebay

good luck. and definitely see if you can improve your braking technique. brake later/deeper into the turn rather than slamming on the brakes at the last minute and you'll save brakes and tires.

wait...you probably mean 130 km/hr?

im being a dick. but yeah good luck.

Driving style makes a huge difference on how brakes work & last. Sometimes going slower makes you faster if you know what I mean. Good luck hope you figure your brake issues out.

I was hitting upwards of 130 at Road Atlanta and was fine on stock calipers and my hps/hp plus combo. You said your fluid was fine, but never specified what you are running. Is it a good quality fluid like Motul RBF600? If your brakes are gone suddenly, that is most likely boiled fluid. I have had no brake issues since upgrading my pads to hawk, and I still run with the dust shields on and engage abs in every viable corner

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

EDIT Just realized this is the same guy who has been bitching about the brakes on these cars in several other threads. I'm done giving advice here.

ashchuckton said:

Driving style makes a huge difference on how brakes work & last. Sometimes going slower makes you faster if you know what I mean. Good luck hope you figure your brake issues out.

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This. Also, on the GTI the XDS system eats up rear brakes faster than front.

I've done three track days this year and I'm down to 50% on the front and have done one replacement on the rears.

Pads front and rear are Stoptech Street Performance Pads.

i think rears go faster than front on most cars. there is a bias to the rear brakes to keep you from bringing the rear end around. that's why when you do bbk and slam on the brakes you begin to feel the rear end get light because the bias is off.

kern417 said:

i think rears go faster than front on most cars. there is a bias to the rear brakes to keep you from bringing the rear end around. that's why when you do bbk and slam on the brakes you begin to feel the rear end get light because the bias is off.

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Brakes are front biased all front engined cars. Only on mid/rear engine cars like Porsche 911's and boxsters will you find square to almost square system. Think about it. When you stop hard where is the weight transfer. The front gets most of the weight and the rear is lightened. Therefore more grip to the front. If they were rear biased you'd have a hell of a time keeping it straight in a panic stop. Also, if you get a proper BBK (Stoptech) kit the pistons are sized to retain the proper front/rear bias. They just add more surface area and the caliper design is more rigid for better feel and repeatability. The rear brakes on our car do a minimal amount of braking due to our 60/40 front/rear weight distribution. The only reason why the rear pads would increase in wear is if your tracking with the stability control on. The rear brakes are activated independently to try to keep you going straight when the car senses the rear wheel(s) are spinning at a different speed than the fronts.

pretty sure that's not correct. the fronts do more of the braking because more load is on the front tires when braking, but bias of the clamping goes to the rear. even with just upgrade pads i can feel the rear end get light. again, that's why our rear brake pads wear twice as fast as the fronts. like on a bike if you grab the front brakes and do nothing to the rear then the rear comes around on you.