1.4 TSI Twincharger (160) Stage 1 / 2

The adapter is custom made by TMG performance of Greece...

They do 2 versions of the adapter - the bit cheaper thinner one that leaves a gap between the adapter and the head, and the full one as pictured above.

Just the adapter:
http://www.tmg-performance.com/en/axesouar-veltiosis/alla/r8-285.html

The adapter with coils package:
http://www.tmg-performance.com/en/axesouar-veltiosis/alla/r8-314.html

Thanks. I've been hearing about TMG with respect to updated dq200 dsg clutches. I'm surprised it took this long for a company to release stronger ones.

Yeah I have been looking at their upgraded clutch pack - it's about time someone did it. I remember reading a couple of years ago about a company that was developing one and showed a picture of red clutch plate - it happens to have been TMG.

Looks like they took some time experimenting with different clutch materials / layout. This new one is Kevlar and supposed to be more resistant to wear / overheating.

That's the problem with the stock clutch - it can overheat in stop start traffic, which leads to glazing the surface. Once that happens its ruined and will start to slip in 2nd gear once it gets a bit hot.

In stop start traffic I go easy on the clutch, trying not let the car ride it so much.

90% of the time I drive in manual mode. I've found that it is less prone to shuddering in that mode.

My issue with the shuddering felt more like improper shift points in D mode for 2nd gear.

I've got this engine in my MK6 Golf Cabriolet (in Australia it's the only option) and have a very similar setup to you (except I'm rocking the 6 speed manual with Dieselgeek short shifter).

Being a late 2011 (MY12) build I got the later fuel pump and injectors from factory, I've updated to the APR Stage 1 in early 2012 (is there an upgraded stage 1 tune since then?) and have recently installed the GFB DV+

I've updated the code to allow a two stage ESP/ESC button found in R spec models so you can turn that off completely should you feel the need.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/f20/apr-tuned-vehicles-question-you-81247.html

I'm running the Forge CAI and with the stage 1 it's quite loud thanks to a virtual straight pipe.

Current setup:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9JJmVbcZ7A

Note it was just as loud before the DV+, here is a vid from a few years back.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ubGSbysyQnQ

There is a Polar FIS Advanced in a drawer here somewhere too I keep meaning to put back in and after all your talk of misfires after the DV+ I'm more encouraged as it beats dragging out the Rosstech cable and laptop. I'll have to scan it all again and see, but at last check there were no faults being logged, but it's been 3 months with the DV+ now and I don't recall when I last scanned it.

Being a little warm here during summer I keep looking at an intercooler upgrade although haven't got there yet... those injectors look very tasty too, something I'd looked at in the past but they didn't fit... the adaptor plate is news to me and very attractive if it all provides a better burn.

In general performance parts for the twincharged motor in the Golf have been pretty thin since all the R&D goes into the GTI and R spec models.

This is a marvelous ultimate excellent earthquake tsunami thread!

I love you!

Time for an update..

My problem with misfires above were down to the APR map having issues with this engine...anyway that map has gone and i have much bigger goals now.

I've been wanting to replace the camshaft adjuster, as it's an earlier revision which sticks occasionally on startup - making a loud unpleasant noise. Also my supercharger clutch / waterpump is the earlier revision which occasionally squeaks (slips), especially in hot weather.

To replace the camshaft adjuster i would need to take the timing side of the engine to bits - a big job, and i might as well put a new chain and tensioner in whilst there as there probably is some chain stretch by now (55k miles).....I also want to clean the intake valves, which as previously mentioned is a difficult job on this engine with the intake on the back side and the channels being very deep....

So if i have got to take the timing side off and all that entails, i might as well take the head off and really clean the intake and valves, even do a port and polish job - and well whilst that's off, this engine is screaming out for something special:



Yep - that's a full set of wossner forged pistons - once they are in, with a full intake clean, port and polish job, new waterpump/supercharger clutch, camshaft adjuster, timing chain & tensioner + guide rails etc....it will have a custom map for some big horsepower

Excellent update!

Staying with stock rods?

sticksabuser said:

Staying with stock rods?

Click to expand...

Yeah, the stock rods are pretty strong....which is more than can be said for the stock pistons!

I will balance the pistons with the rods though, grinding some material off the rods if necessary.

So, you meant that there is problem of APR 's chip tuning?

我從使用 Tapatalk 的 SM-N910U 發送

siutin said:

So, you meant that there is problem of APR 's chip tuning?

Click to expand...

Yes, the APR map for 1.4 TSI's (twincharged) can have issues with some engines. Many of the greek tuners have had similar issues with APR maps where the 1.4 TSI is far more prevalent in greece.

Two problems arise - random misfires across all cylinders under maximum load around 4000rpm and intermittent boost limp mode.

The misfires seem to occur from overfueling with lambda as low as 0.7 and AFR 10.3. Engines with the newer revision injectors (used in most, but not all, mid 2010 engines onwards) have a wider spray pattern which can foul the sparks under heavy fueling - causing misfires.

The boost limp is where the engine suddenly drops back to stock boost levels and stays there for a while, with requested boost only being stock. It seems stem from actual boost consistently exceeding requested boost (lack of N75 control with it stuck at 100% duty for too long). Although it could be caused by something else, possibly false engine knock detection.

Anyway i got that map taken off, they did try to give me a tamer map but that was even worse and would boost limp almost immediately on a WOT. It is possible i have some other engine issues that don't show up on stock, but i can't find any from the logs and compression is good, i know ignition and the fueling system is good....if there is an internal issue such as poor valve sealing then it will all be resolved when i do all the head work.

Blower, you are the god of car to me!
Please shine me the way to the best brand of tunung I shall go for, other than APR! Thanks!

我從使用 Tapatalk 的 SM-N910U 發送

siutin said:

Blower, you are the god of car to me!
Please shine me the way to the best brand of tunung I shall go for, other than APR! Thanks!

我從使用 Tapatalk 的 SM-N910U 發送

Click to expand...

:thumbup:

Revo is the best off the shelf map for this engine.

Thanks the god of car!

I will go for it after I fix my gearbox problem!

Maybe I tell you, see if you have any clue for this.
I think its normal during acceleration that the engine speed increase, and then shift to a upper gear, say from 1 to 2, and then the engine RPM drop back say to 1500 and then increase again to around 2000 and then shift up another gear, say from 2 to 3.

But my gearbox / computer (I donno which thing gone wron) do it like this:
at gear 2, RPM increase to 2000, then DROP back to 1500, and then increase to 2100 around, and shift up to gear 3.

For the whole process, I did not give a deeper step to the peddle or release from the peddle. I just keep constant press to the peddle.

I wonder what is happening for my car.

Perhaps I shall not ask here, just see if you can give me any piece of opinion.

Million thanks!
The god of car!