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Experience With Camber Plates?

stevenchkim

Go Kart Champion
Ha, love that color. The XTA camber plates are really nice dude.

Ryan, I went and picked up the GC camber plates and the next question is how much camber are you running front/rear and why?
 

HYDE161

Go Kart Champion
Ryan, I went and picked up the GC camber plates and the next question is how much camber are you running front/rear and why?

My car is setup for straight line acceleration and high speed stability. Front camber is at -1 to account for the positive camber change upon acceleration and front end lift, the goal was to net a neutral camber for max grip.
 

mg_90

Newbie
Been running the IE plates paired to Bilstein B16 coils for 15 months and the bearing on the driver side already failed; which seems to be a common failure for IE´s plates.

For sure the car has seen lots of track but they were supposed to be designed to be able to cope with that, I am higly dissappointed.

If someone requires more info just ask :thumbsup:
 

zef

Drag Racing Champion
I was going to go with IE camber plates and decided to go with super pro ball joints. Got up to -2.2 at full adjustment. Settled for -1.8. Got the adjustment I was looking for without killing ride quality.
 

jay745

What Would Glenn Danzig Do
I was going to go with IE camber plates and decided to go with super pro ball joints. Got up to -2.2 at full adjustment. Settled for -1.8. Got the adjustment I was looking for without killing ride quality.
I'm not a fan of those due to the nylon nuts they use. Way too much heat in that area of track use for nylon

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

the1bill1

New member
seen them fail unfortunately

So, I was thinking about this earlier since I use the SuperPro ball joints on my car. I only autocross my CC, so heat isn't the same kind of problem for me as it is for you, but perhaps nylock nuts aren't needed. I know that the stock ball joints use pressed bolts and single use nuts. The SuperPro ball joints come with grade 12.9 bolts and nylock nuts (grade 10, I think). I think they went nylock because grade 12.9 is hard to keep locked, with 90% max torque being specified to ensure that the nut doesn't back off. Instead of going to 90%, the nylon does a good enough job at a temperature range that's fine for most people.

Since the SuperPro uses nuts and bolts, I think it might make more sense to source replacement bolts at the same grade as OEM. That way, OEM single use nuts can be used, heat isn't going to be a problem, and you'd still get camber adjustability.

Is there anything about this that sounds unsafe?
 

Roadrunner_GTI

Drag Racing Champion
So, I was thinking about this earlier since I use the SuperPro ball joints on my car. I only autocross my CC, so heat isn't the same kind of problem for me as it is for you, but perhaps nylock nuts aren't needed. I know that the stock ball joints use pressed bolts and single use nuts. The SuperPro ball joints come with grade 12.9 bolts and nylock nuts (grade 10, I think). I think they went nylock because grade 12.9 is hard to keep locked, with 90% max torque being specified to ensure that the nut doesn't back off. Instead of going to 90%, the nylon does a good enough job at a temperature range that's fine for most people.

Since the SuperPro uses nuts and bolts, I think it might make more sense to source replacement bolts at the same grade as OEM. That way, OEM single use nuts can be used, heat isn't going to be a problem, and you'd still get camber adjustability.

Is there anything about this that sounds unsafe?

Not sure if this was ever updated or not...but having just installed SuperPro ball joints last month, I can confirm that they are now supplied with Grade 10 nuts (not nylock). They recommend torquing them to factory spec, which is 44ft-lbs. By comparison, factory spec for TT adjustable ball joints is 55ft-lbs. I decided to split the difference and torque mine to 50ft-lbs. I have my first track event next week, so I can report back if they've moved at all.
 

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