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Old 07-25-2018, 09:35 AM   #15
Ronnie_B
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Here are some pics of the ECS Subframe collar and H&R 26mm Front swaybar install. The subframe collar kit eliminated the clunk noise I felt going over inclines and overall completely tightened up the chassis. Car feels so much better. I will say that the instructions that came with the ECS kit are top notch. It also came with all the stretch bolts I needed. For as much shit as we may give ECS Tuning, they definitely hit the mark with this kit.

* Just a disclaimer, this job was an absolute pain in the ass, especially aligning the subframe/control arm to chassis bolt holes. Glad it's over with. *


You can see exactly where the subframe was shifting on the driver side.


Same side with collar and Audi bolt now installed.


The way I kept track of all the different subframe bolts.


Subframe and new swaybar installed.


In other news, I'm changing up brake pads for track days. These are the R8 compound, I'll let you guys know some feedback on them soon.
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APR Stage 2 v2.4 93 tune, APR Cast Downpipe, DIY RSR Clutch, Peloquin LSD, iABED RMS, Carbonio Intake, Diesel Geek Sigma 6, DG manual springs, Koni Yellows, SuperPro ALK / RCA ball joints/ end links, H&R 26mm/24mm swaybars, ECS Subframe collar kit, G-LOC GS-1 / R8 Pads, Centric Blank Rotors, TS Brake Bushing Kit, Motul RBF600 Fluid, Yokohama AD08R's on OZ 17" Omnia (Track), Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 on Serrons(Street) Build Thread

Last edited by Ronnie_B; 09-04-2018 at 03:12 PM.
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Old 11-05-2018, 02:43 AM   #16
Blaznjoe
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Nice build thread! Is there a specific part number for the Rennline Heel/Toe pedal extension? Id like to try this out.
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Old 11-05-2018, 01:19 PM   #17
Ronnie_B
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blaznjoe View Post
Nice build thread! Is there a specific part number for the Rennline Heel/Toe pedal extension? Id like to try this out.
Here's the link for the heel toe extensions: Clicky

Here's some video from the Fall HPDE event at VIR last week.
https://youtu.be/w8a9LEAIFUQ

https://youtu.be/0WOWP5ZLObQ
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Old 11-05-2018, 06:07 PM   #18
Blaznjoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronnie_B View Post
Here's the link for the heel toe extensions: Clicky

Here's some video from the Fall HPDE event at VIR last week.
https://youtu.be/w8a9LEAIFUQ

https://youtu.be/0WOWP5ZLObQ
Thanks! I guess they are one-size fits most type of adapter. Did you have to drill through the OEM GTI gas pedal? I'm curious as the instructions (pictures) are vague.

I also watched your video of you chasing and passing the M3. Really cool
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Old 11-06-2018, 09:18 AM   #19
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Great build, I am just now seeing it. Very similar to my car but I'm missing the LSD. I wouldn't bother with the catch can, but have you thought about a subframe mount? I've run the red HPA on a previous GTI, it was excellent. This car came with an insert, I have VWR mounts waiting to go in.
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He's a real straight shooter, no monkey business, and the wheel swap at the Kohl's parking lot was quick and easy.
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Well i did use a breaker bar to snug up that nut instead of a torque wrench.
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my subframe has been out twice without replacing any bolts and I don't have subframe clunks and my world hasn't ended and my car hasn't blown up.
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Old 11-06-2018, 11:35 AM   #20
Ronnie_B
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zrickety View Post
Great build, I am just now seeing it. Very similar to my car but I'm missing the LSD. I wouldn't bother with the catch can, but have you thought about a subframe mount? I've run the red HPA on a previous GTI, it was excellent. This car came with an insert, I have VWR mounts waiting to go in.
I've thought about it, and keep going back and forth on it. Did you run the stock dogbone with the HPA mount? NVH bad?
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Old 11-19-2018, 11:28 AM   #21
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Figured I'd post some feedback about track pads from this past season. I also posted this in the Track Brake Pads Thread, but want to include it here in case people don't follow that thread...

I run the following brake setup:
Stoptech/Centric High Carbon Blank Rotors
G-LOC GS-1 Compound Pads (Street)
G-LOC R8 Compound Pads (Track)
Tyrolsport Brake Bushing Kit
Removed dust shields
Motul RBF600 Fluid

I can't say enough good things about the G-Loc pads. The R8 compound performed flawlessly over a pretty grueling 2-day track event at VIR earlier this month. There are two high speed (130+mph) braking zones in each lap, with many lighter braking zones in between, and I didn't notice any pad fade during any 30 minute sessions. Very little wear during that event, and they are easy on the rotors. These pads even do well at low temps on the street, but the noise they generate is pretty intense. Because of that, I run the GS-1 compound on the street, which is compatible with the R8 on the same rotors. The GS-1 pads have a very similar coefficient of friction as the R8 in cold temps (maybe even slightly higher) and are quite easy to modulate. I really enjoy running them daily. So far they are quiet with less dust than the OEM or Stoptech Street pads I've ran in the past.

A few notes:
Bedding procedure is critical for the R8 compound pads. I tried to bed them in on the street, but wasn't able to get enough heat in them. They did properly bed in during my first session on track, which caused me to lose half a session so I could let them cool. Because of this, I would recommend getting them pre-bed from G-LOC. This is to bring the pad up to temperature to properly off-gas the pad material.

I've reached the limits of Motul RBF600 and find that I need to bleed my brakes at the end of each track day (meaning I'm boiling the fluid). I will need to upgrade next season to either RBF660 or Castrol SRF.

Can't wait for next season!! Schedule was just released.
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Old 02-19-2019, 04:08 PM   #22
Ronnie_B
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Quick winter update:

Finally finished up the DG spring / Koni yellow install.






Also installed SuperPro roll center adjustable ball joints and swaybar end links.



I got it aligned temporarily so I could drive it for a few weeks, the toe was waayyy out. I'll go back for a final alignment once everything settles. The SuperPro ball joints gave me about -.5 of additional camber on each side, so I'm sitting at about -1.9 at the moment. I'm pretty happy with that given that I was at -1 prior to lowering and installing the ball joints.

So far, after a few days of driving I can say that I love this setup. I have the rear shocks set to middle setting (2 turns from soft) and the fronts set at one turn from soft. I'll dial the fronts more as I go, and I cant wait to get this thing back on the track next month.
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Old 02-21-2019, 05:09 PM   #23
Blaznjoe
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Your rig is coming along nice!

Quick question, were you able to change the lower control ball joints out easily? (Meaning, you didn't have to remove the CVD axles from the hubs.) I want to add the SuperPro ball joints but if I have to remove the axles, brake capilers, etc, I'd like to be prepared.
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Old 02-21-2019, 05:30 PM   #24
Ronnie_B
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blaznjoe View Post
Your rig is coming along nice!

Quick question, were you able to change the lower control ball joints out easily? (Meaning, you didn't have to remove the CVD axles from the hubs.) I want to add the SuperPro ball joints but if I have to remove the axles, brake capilers, etc, I'd like to be prepared.
No, I did not remove the axles or brake calipers to install the ball joints. And actually, I didn't remove the axles to do the springs / dampers either. It saved quite a bit of time this way.

Here are the steps for ball joint install:
1. Remove the 3x m10 (16mm) ball joint nuts on the bottom of the control arm
2. Loosen the m12 (18mm) ball joint upper nut above the steering knuckle with a box wrench. Keep in mind that you won't be able to completely remove the nut because the axle is in the way, but loosen it as much as you can.
3. Use a pickle fork and 3lb sledge hammer to release the ball joint from the knuckle
4. With the ball joint now dropped down, finish loosening the nut and remove the ball joint.
5. Install the new ball joint into the knuckle and start threading the upper nut.
6. The ball joint stud will likely start to spin as you thread the nut on, so lightly press the ball joint into the knuckle with a floor jack. This will prevent the ball joint stud from spinning.
7. Finish tightening the upper nut
8. Install the lower ball joint nuts, adjust the position based on alignment and tighten the 3x lower nuts.

Hope that helps!
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Old Yesterday, 02:03 AM   #25
Blaznjoe
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^Awesome directions! Thanks a ton
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