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Tony's Black GTI

Tony48

Go Kart Champion
I too am nervous about working on the GTI. There's a lot of plastic and torque to yield bolts. I have the tools and experience but this car is delicate compared to my other beast.

1995 Toyota Land Cruiser

Great truck! And killer landscape in the background. Looks like you get out and enjoy it. The truck pairs up to make a nice fleet along with a GTI. The GTI is no doubt a more delicate and intricate car than your truck. I have a buddy with a 90's Taco and his family has an older 4runner. Those things are tough as nails.

Great posts man! The orange/black is a pretty sweet combo

I agree! My only hesitation is I'm not sure I want to be that "loud" but I think I'm gonna go for it. Here's where I drew my inspiration from:

Forum member GTi OMN 18's matte orange GTI:


This Orange Golf R wrapped by German company SchwabenFolia:
 

BringerOdeath

Ready to race!
Great truck! And killer landscape in the background. Looks like you get out and enjoy it. The truck pairs up to make a nice fleet along with a GTI. The GTI is no doubt a more delicate and intricate car than your truck. I have a buddy with a 90's Taco and his family has an older 4runner. Those things are tough as nails.



I agree! My only hesitation is I'm not sure I want to be that "loud" but I think I'm gonna go for it. Here's where I drew my inspiration from:

Forum member GTi OMN 18's matte orange GTI:


This Orange Golf R wrapped by German company SchwabenFolia:

That looks nice!!! I see that bottom car has TTRS calipers..... ;) What exactly happened with the Porsche brakes you got? Are they the 18z/17z calipers? I know a guy that can get calipers pretty cheaply....

I actually kept searching for all 3 part numbers for the TTRS/3.2 TT master cylinder:

8J1-611-021-A
8J1-611-021-C
8J1-611-021-E

I finally found one listed from a junk yard in california as the A vesion, but in the pics it showed 25.4 on the bottom and I knew I had hit the jackpot. $115 shipped to me for the MC and res. You don't really need the booster. They MC on the TTRS is the same as the 3.2l TT they had from 2008-2010.

You can also use the touareg MC with booster for real CHEAP, but you have to make your own hard lines, which isn't too hard:

http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108904

This weekend, I am going to be putting on the rear collars to align my rear subframe and I am installing a Rieger gloss black rear Diffuser to replace the one that got damaged when I got rear ended last month.....
 

Tony48

Go Kart Champion
That looks nice!!! I see that bottom car has TTRS calipers..... ;) What exactly happened with the Porsche brakes you got? Are they the 18z/17z calipers? I know a guy that can get calipers pretty cheaply....

I actually kept searching for all 3 part numbers for the TTRS/3.2 TT master cylinder:

8J1-611-021-A
8J1-611-021-C
8J1-611-021-E

I finally found one listed from a junk yard in california as the A vesion, but in the pics it showed 25.4 on the bottom and I knew I had hit the jackpot. $115 shipped to me for the MC and res. You don't really need the booster. They MC on the TTRS is the same as the 3.2l TT they had from 2008-2010.

You can also use the touareg MC with booster for real CHEAP, but you have to make your own hard lines, which isn't too hard:

http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108904

This weekend, I am going to be putting on the rear collars to align my rear subframe and I am installing a Rieger gloss black rear Diffuser to replace the one that got damaged when I got rear ended last month.....

Thanks for the info on the MC/Booster setup options. Sounds like you really scored when you found your setup. Persistence and research pays off :thumbsup:.

Sucks you got rear ended. Hope insurance covered you and the damage wasn't too bad. Glad you're getting that new diffuser back on! The Rieger piece looks really nice.

I'm dying to do my brake upgrade but have an issue to work out. I purchased a set of Boxster S calipers and brackets, rotors, etc from a guy on these forums. They were partially disassembled so I cleaned em up, bought new seals, pads, etc. When I went to assemble them I saw that one of the bleeder holes in the caliper was stripped. Had to have been done by the previous owner since I hadn't threaded anything in that hole. I contacted the seller and he was acting like he was gonna pay for a replacement caliper...then he basically told me to f*** off, accused me of scamming him, and posted a thread to the forum saying avoid doing business with me.

I went through the whole PayPal dispute and whatnot which took months. Taught me a lot about purchasing things online and being wary. That's finally all sorted out and I got a partial refund but I'm still stuck with a stripped caliper. I think I'm gonna try to helicoil it for the time being and replace the caliper body in the future when I tear the calipers back down to powder coat orange to match my vinyl wrap. That's the plan anyways. I'm certainly open to other suggestions on repairing the threads. I'm worried I won't get the helicoil perfectly straight and the bleeder valve won't seat correctly to make a good seal. I've got nothing to lose though so I'll go for it when I get some time.

Pic of stripped bleeder hole. You can see the few threads left at the bottom. The threads should come all the way to the surface.
2017-09-02_07-59-28 by Tony G, on Flickr
 
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BringerOdeath

Ready to race!
Thanks for the info on the MC/Booster setup options. Sounds like you really scored when you found your setup. Persistence and research pays off :thumbsup:.

Sucks you got rear ended. Hope insurance covered you and the damage wasn't too bad. Glad you're getting that new diffuser back on! The Rieger piece looks really nice.

I'm dying to do my brake upgrade but have an issue to work out. I purchased a set of Boxster S calipers and brackets, rotors, etc from a guy on these forums. They were partially disassembled so I cleaned em up, bought new seals, pads, etc. When I went to assemble them I saw that one of the bleeder holes in the caliper was stripped. Had to have been done by the previous owner since I hadn't threaded anything in that hole. I contacted the seller and he was acting like he was gonna pay for a replacement caliper...then he basically told me to f*** off, accused me of scamming him, and posted a thread to the forum saying avoid doing business with me.

I went through the whole PayPal dispute and whatnot which took months. Taught me a lot about purchasing things online and being wary. That's finally all sorted out and I got a partial refund but I'm still stuck with a stripped caliper. I think I'm gonna try to helicoil it for the time being and replace the caliper body in the future when I tear the calipers back down to powder coat orange to match my vinyl wrap. That's the plan anyways. I'm certainly open to other suggestions on repairing the threads. I'm worried I won't get the helicoil perfectly straight and the bleeder valve won't seat correctly to make a good seal. I've got nothing to lose though so I'll go for it when I get some time.

Pic of stripped bleeder hole. You can see the few threads left at the bottom. The threads should come all the way to the surface.
2017-09-02_07-59-28 by Tony G, on Flickr

Yeah, I definitely got lucky with the new MC. I also have a Touareg MC sitting around here in case I decide to go even bigger, LOL. I think I may have gotten a hold of another TTRS/3.2l TT MC, but I won't know until my buddy ships it to me....


Man, that is total BS about the stripped bleeder threads. I think you can buy one of these fix kits:

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-13960...show_all_btm?ie=UTF8&reviewerType=all_reviews

Although this one is m10 so it would need to be a bit bigger threading to dig into the caliper to replace the stripped part. Should be the cheapest and cheapest option instead of re-threading with a helical.

Well, if it makes you feel better, I was taken for 1k on a used k04 a guy was selling on here. He never sent it to me and moved back to Mexico..... I am still kind of mad about it.

I am going to post a pick of my before and after wreck. The girl did $k in damage, but I got a candy white hatch from a dismantler along with an oem bumper and all the parts under it for $400. All I had to pay for was the replacement of the lower rear apron sheet metal and painting the bumper. So I only spent 1500, and pocketed the rest. :)
 

Tony48

Go Kart Champion
Yeah, I definitely got lucky with the new MC. I also have a Touareg MC sitting around here in case I decide to go even bigger, LOL. I think I may have gotten a hold of another TTRS/3.2l TT MC, but I won't know until my buddy ships it to me....


Man, that is total BS about the stripped bleeder threads. I think you can buy one of these fix kits:

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-13960...show_all_btm?ie=UTF8&reviewerType=all_reviews

Although this one is m10 so it would need to be a bit bigger threading to dig into the caliper to replace the stripped part. Should be the cheapest and cheapest option instead of re-threading with a helical.

Well, if it makes you feel better, I was taken for 1k on a used k04 a guy was selling on here. He never sent it to me and moved back to Mexico..... I am still kind of mad about it.

I am going to post a pick of my before and after wreck. The girl did $k in damage, but I got a candy white hatch from a dismantler along with an oem bumper and all the parts under it for $400. All I had to pay for was the replacement of the lower rear apron sheet metal and painting the bumper. So I only spent 1500, and pocketed the rest. :)

Wow, really sucks you lost $1k on a K04. I don't blame you for still being mad about it! I'm a little uneasy about buying a used turbo (or anything used of that price) so I think I'll stick with new if I decide to go K04.

You got a real deal on that hatch and bumper. Glad you came away with some $$$ after having to go through all that BS.

In regards to the caliper fix kit: I initially looked into that and it seemed like a good solution. I purchased a set that included a 1/4" and 1/8" NPT insert. Unfortunately the 1/8" NPT insert seems to be just a tiny bit too small. The 1/4" NPT insert is really large and won't leave much aluminum around the hole. The package said it needed to have at least 1/4" of material around it or something like that. I don't necessarily think it needs that much but I had no more than 1/8" if I recall correctly, and I'm worried I'll crack the caliper when threading in the tapered insert. I'll give the inserts a try soon but don't think it's a great long term solution.
 
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Tony48

Go Kart Champion
I managed to find a threaded brake bleeder insert that I think will work well for repairing my Boxster caliper. It's a replacement insert with an outside M12 thread for the rear caliper of a BMW motorcycle. I opted for the stainless steel version, Speed Bleeder part number SBBMWS-SS.





Also installed a set of weather tech window deflectors in their dark option. Install was easy and straightforward. Looks subtle on a black car. See below for before and after pictures.


 
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BringerOdeath

Ready to race!
I managed to find a threaded brake bleeder insert that I think will work well for repairing my Boxster caliper. It's a replacement insert with an outside M12 thread for the rear caliper of a BMW motorcycle. I opted for the stainless steel version, Speed Bleeder part number SBBMWS-SS.





Also installed a set of weather tech window deflectors in their dark option. Install was easy and straightforward. Looks subtle on a black car. See below for before and after pictures.



Do you still have that 10mm repair kit? I have one bleeder that leaks, but its not stripped so it must be the seat and i think that one will work for me.
 

Tony48

Go Kart Champion
Do you still have that 10mm repair kit? I have one bleeder that leaks, but its not stripped so it must be the seat and i think that one will work for me.

The one I have is 1/8" NPT. You can pick it up for a few dollars at any auto parts store. I haven't seen a 10mm version. All of them I've come across have been pipe thread.
 

BringerOdeath

Ready to race!
The one I have is 1/8" NPT. You can pick it up for a few dollars at any auto parts store. I haven't seen a 10mm version. All of them I've come across have been pipe thread.

I think we figured it out, there was little piece of debris in the connical part of the caliper that was keeping it from sealing. Maybe from the powdercoating.

How did that repair bleeder work for you?

Also, my buddy is testing the 25.4 MC and the GTI one in his turbo beetle to see if he likes the pedal feel. If he ends up giving me back the upgraded MC, I can always sell it to you.
 

Tony48

Go Kart Champion
I think we figured it out, there was little piece of debris in the connical part of the caliper that was keeping it from sealing. Maybe from the powdercoating.

How did that repair bleeder work for you?

Also, my buddy is testing the 25.4 MC and the GTI one in his turbo beetle to see if he likes the pedal feel. If he ends up giving me back the upgraded MC, I can always sell it to you.

Glad the bleeder ended up being a simple fix. I haven't had a chance to put the repair bleeder in yet...hopefully this weekend. Been busy with life and working on the garage. I'll post pics when I tackle it.

Keep me in the loop on the MC. It's not an upgrade that I'm dying to do but it certainly has value.
 

Tony48

Go Kart Champion
Saving Private Brembo

I had a bit of time this weekend to tap the caliper for the bleeder screw insert. Everything went well so I'll clean the caliper up, make sure to flush all the aluminum shavings out, and put the insert in with loctite this weekend.

The plan is still to get the kit installed without refinishing the calipers. I'll make sure everything is leak-proof and functioning properly. Once I vinyl wrap my car I'll pull the calipers off and powder coat them to match the vinyl color.

The biggest challenges in installing the brake caliper insert were as follows:

  • Finding an appropriately sized insert. 1/8NPT was too small and 1/4NPT too large. Luckily I was able to find the M12 unit.
  • Unfortunately the M12 unit was M12x1 thread pitch which is uncommon. Had to order a set of taps online. I ordered a taper tap and a plug tap.
  • Clamping and holding the caliper perfectly vertical was difficult because there's not a good way to clamp to a vertical reference point. I ended up eyeballing the setup vertical on the drill press and I'm confident it's straight within a couple degrees.
  • There was not a lot of extra depth available so I had to drill and tap slowly and carefully.
  • I started the threads with the taper tap. I ground the bottom off of the plug tap so it became a bottoming tap. The unmodified plug tap would not have cut threads to the bottom of the blind hole.
Oh, I also did some maintenance - oil change, tire rotation, installed new spark plugs and R8 coil packs so those pics are down below the brake caliper stuff.















 
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Tony48

Go Kart Champion
986 S brakes are installed.

-Boxster 986 S front calipers (PN 996-351-425-11 & 996-351-426-11, these are different from the 986 non-S calipers)
-New seals and dust covers
-321x30 Stoptech slotted rotor (Audi B5 S4 fitment)
-Rotor centering rings
-HEL Stainless Steel brake lines w/ flared fitting (to avoid using banjo bolts)
-Pentosin Super DOT4 fluid (took less than a liter to bleed the front calipers after draining the master cylinder reservoir)
-EBC Red pads
-OEM vibration dampers

Impressions:
I'm happy to say that the repaired bleeder is holding pressure perfectly. I have a slight weeping issue from one of the other bleed nipples but I think it'll be fine after I replace the bleeder. Pedal feel is fantastic but I'll have a better idea after I complete the bed in period for the EBC pads (~200 miles of city driving followed by a few 60-20 stops to heat cycle the pads). My initial thought is that the pedal is very linear and easy to modulate. Braking power doesn't taper off as pedal pressure increases like with the OEM setup. Seems to be a very nice OEM-plus kind of upgrade.








Filing down the pad slide pins by a mm or two to make room for the 30mm wide rotors (stock 986 S rotors are 28mm)











Comparison shot:




Unfortunately the setup required spacers for clearance on my 18x8 ET45 OZ Ultraleggeras. I had 10mm's laying around so I threw them on. Could go as low as 5mm, maybe even 4, and maintain adequate clearance. My fenders are rolled and slightly pulled but I still get a tiny bit of rubbing when turning and going over bumps. I'll probably be getting custom spacers made soon so I can go thinner to prevent fender rubbing and still have a wheel centric lip.

 

ZiggyMKVI

Ready to race!
looks great man


Do you know if you will have to shave down the pins on a non-s caliper ?
 

ZiggyMKVI

Ready to race!
Much appreciated!

I believe shaving pins is not necessary on non-s calipers. This is due to the MK6 GTI front rotor being 25mm thick and the 986 non-s rotor being only 24mm thick.

OK awesome thanks for the info I just picked up some 986 calipers off ebay. so im starting my rebuild on them now.
 
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