FlowMK6
Ready to race!
This might not be the first of his kind, I know there are a bunch of turbo guys arround, but I haven't seen them on the forums
The goal of my thread is to answer all your questions and give advices about turbo setup. It's also my build thread for the one interested
*Before planning to turbo your car, you should consider the fact that due to the exhaust manifold location, you will have to remove the engine*
I have seen one person which tried to install a turbo kit without removing the engine on jack stands and I never heard of him again, it's way more easier with engine out. It's a time consuming project and if you plan to pay someone to install it, you should keep in mind, that it takes time and time is money !
Now let's start this thread with a bunch of informations that could be useful, well I hope so
"Manifold options"
That's probably one of the hardest part to find, Once you got the manifold, parts keep coming and coming
There are not a lot of choices, but here is my ranking
Performance effective:
JDL Auto Design Top Mount
Piece of art, tubular manifold and top mount. Ready to mount the turbo and wastegate of your choice, it's the most effective in term of looks and performance. It's about 1300$+
Cost effective:
SPATurbo manifold
It's sell for less than 500$, it's a cast log manifold and a bottom mount. A small manifold that give good clearance
Then you have C2 Motorsport which is no longer in sale and Bluewater Performance
"Fueling and tuning"
I don't need to tell you that you will need to use 91 octane gas in your car
Compressed air means more fuel needed in order to respect our air/fuel ratio. You need bigger injectors in order to send more fuel per pulse. Most people uses Bosch 550cc and you won't need bigger except if you plan on boosting 20psi+
Below 15psi of boost, an upgraded fuel pump is not needed. Near 15 psi on high load, you might have issues with fuel delivery
You also don't need to adjust your fuel pressure. Fuel pressure is needed to vaporize the fuel in a more efficient way, since fuel in his liquid state don't burn, it's the vapor that does make the explosion
Honestly, above 15psi, I would convert the return-less fuel system into a return fuel system to use an aftermarket fuel regulator to adjust my fuel pressure based on the boost
As for fuel pump, you can use a DW65v, which is a drop-in solution for the older fuel pump assembly revision, our car have the new revision, which is not a serviceable one. You can get a used fuel pump assembly from a 2007 and it fits on our car. Part number: 1K0-919-051 AP
You can also use a RS4 B6 fuel pump. You have to use the top of your MK6 fuel pump assembly and it shoudl work. You can also keep your stock in-tank fuel pump and add an inline fuel pump like a Walbro or a Bosch
Tuning part: As far as I know, UnitedMotorsport is the only company offering fuel injectors tune for our ECU. You can use a standalone ECU, but honestly I prefer to keep my stock ecu ; you keep all the functionnality of the car, if it fry it doesn't cost a grand to replace it...
Why you need to tune your car ? Since you put bigger injectors, a pulse of that injector flows more fuel than a pulse from a stock one which will affect the AFR ratio and the car will run poorly.
*To use Bosch injectors, you will need adapters. EV14 to Nippon Type A*
"Oil feed and oil drain"
Oil feed : There is a service port on the head near the engine mount to test oil pressure. You can use a M10x1.0 to -4AN adapter
Oil drain : You will have to weld a -10AN bung on your oil pan, I recommand replacing it. And be carefull when making the hose to make sure that the axle won't touch your oil drain line in any way
"Intercooler piping size"
Based on the engine flow and what most people use as turbo size, the ideal intercooler piping size would be 2.5" for a good flow, velocity, no turbulence and less lag
There are some explanations and calculations on the DSM forums, I could post the link here if interested
If you have any others questions or need more explanations, feel free to ask, I will update the thread
"The Build"
Day 1
Getting engine ready for removal
Day 2
Engine removal
Day 3
Engine removed, preparing the engine for the turbo, it was a small day before going to work
Day 4
Messing up with the fuel pump, trying to install the DW65v. Installed the boost controller and wideband gauge
Day 6
Installed the new flywheel and clutch kit (DKM Stage 2 from a FSI Golf R). Valve cover looks very good. The fuel pump is back on the car took. I would recommand removing the fuel in the tank for easier install
Day 7
Engine back on the car, started working on the intercooler piping. I still have clearance for a bigger turbo
Day 8
Progress on the intercooler piping, tried to mount the intercooler and I had a hard time drilling hole on the bumper. It's hardened steel... I was unable to drill holes even with cobalt drill mesh
Day 9
Mounted the intercooler, finaly I used plasma to make the hole, it's way easier
Piping done on side, it's tight, but enough clearance for engine movement under hard shift
Day 10
Finished the intercooler piping
I had a surprise when I wanted to close the hood, I forgot the hood retainer I also had to remove the wiper fluid tank. I will be using a king-size beer can as a new resevoir
Day 11
Received the AC pulley and bracket to replace the AC compresor since I decided to delete it. Bought a custom hood strut and moved it on the side
Day 12
Piping welded and oil return done
Day 13
Everything back together and car running
I will update this thread once there is some progress, please note I work the car on my free time and it's normal to see updates only every 2-3 days. Have a good day ! :thumbup:
The goal of my thread is to answer all your questions and give advices about turbo setup. It's also my build thread for the one interested
*Before planning to turbo your car, you should consider the fact that due to the exhaust manifold location, you will have to remove the engine*
I have seen one person which tried to install a turbo kit without removing the engine on jack stands and I never heard of him again, it's way more easier with engine out. It's a time consuming project and if you plan to pay someone to install it, you should keep in mind, that it takes time and time is money !
Now let's start this thread with a bunch of informations that could be useful, well I hope so
"Manifold options"
That's probably one of the hardest part to find, Once you got the manifold, parts keep coming and coming
There are not a lot of choices, but here is my ranking
Performance effective:
JDL Auto Design Top Mount
Piece of art, tubular manifold and top mount. Ready to mount the turbo and wastegate of your choice, it's the most effective in term of looks and performance. It's about 1300$+
Cost effective:
SPATurbo manifold
It's sell for less than 500$, it's a cast log manifold and a bottom mount. A small manifold that give good clearance
Then you have C2 Motorsport which is no longer in sale and Bluewater Performance
"Fueling and tuning"
I don't need to tell you that you will need to use 91 octane gas in your car
Compressed air means more fuel needed in order to respect our air/fuel ratio. You need bigger injectors in order to send more fuel per pulse. Most people uses Bosch 550cc and you won't need bigger except if you plan on boosting 20psi+
Below 15psi of boost, an upgraded fuel pump is not needed. Near 15 psi on high load, you might have issues with fuel delivery
You also don't need to adjust your fuel pressure. Fuel pressure is needed to vaporize the fuel in a more efficient way, since fuel in his liquid state don't burn, it's the vapor that does make the explosion
Honestly, above 15psi, I would convert the return-less fuel system into a return fuel system to use an aftermarket fuel regulator to adjust my fuel pressure based on the boost
As for fuel pump, you can use a DW65v, which is a drop-in solution for the older fuel pump assembly revision, our car have the new revision, which is not a serviceable one. You can get a used fuel pump assembly from a 2007 and it fits on our car. Part number: 1K0-919-051 AP
You can also use a RS4 B6 fuel pump. You have to use the top of your MK6 fuel pump assembly and it shoudl work. You can also keep your stock in-tank fuel pump and add an inline fuel pump like a Walbro or a Bosch
Tuning part: As far as I know, UnitedMotorsport is the only company offering fuel injectors tune for our ECU. You can use a standalone ECU, but honestly I prefer to keep my stock ecu ; you keep all the functionnality of the car, if it fry it doesn't cost a grand to replace it...
Why you need to tune your car ? Since you put bigger injectors, a pulse of that injector flows more fuel than a pulse from a stock one which will affect the AFR ratio and the car will run poorly.
*To use Bosch injectors, you will need adapters. EV14 to Nippon Type A*
"Oil feed and oil drain"
Oil feed : There is a service port on the head near the engine mount to test oil pressure. You can use a M10x1.0 to -4AN adapter
Oil drain : You will have to weld a -10AN bung on your oil pan, I recommand replacing it. And be carefull when making the hose to make sure that the axle won't touch your oil drain line in any way
"Intercooler piping size"
Based on the engine flow and what most people use as turbo size, the ideal intercooler piping size would be 2.5" for a good flow, velocity, no turbulence and less lag
There are some explanations and calculations on the DSM forums, I could post the link here if interested
If you have any others questions or need more explanations, feel free to ask, I will update the thread
"The Build"
Day 1
Getting engine ready for removal
Day 2
Engine removal
Day 3
Engine removed, preparing the engine for the turbo, it was a small day before going to work
Day 4
Messing up with the fuel pump, trying to install the DW65v. Installed the boost controller and wideband gauge
Day 5
Turbo mounted, made the oil drain hose, got a old pump assembly in order to install the DW65v pump with ease
Turbo mounted, made the oil drain hose, got a old pump assembly in order to install the DW65v pump with ease
Day 6
Installed the new flywheel and clutch kit (DKM Stage 2 from a FSI Golf R). Valve cover looks very good. The fuel pump is back on the car took. I would recommand removing the fuel in the tank for easier install
Day 7
Engine back on the car, started working on the intercooler piping. I still have clearance for a bigger turbo
Day 8
Progress on the intercooler piping, tried to mount the intercooler and I had a hard time drilling hole on the bumper. It's hardened steel... I was unable to drill holes even with cobalt drill mesh
Day 9
Mounted the intercooler, finaly I used plasma to make the hole, it's way easier
Piping done on side, it's tight, but enough clearance for engine movement under hard shift
Day 10
Finished the intercooler piping
I had a surprise when I wanted to close the hood, I forgot the hood retainer I also had to remove the wiper fluid tank. I will be using a king-size beer can as a new resevoir
Day 11
Received the AC pulley and bracket to replace the AC compresor since I decided to delete it. Bought a custom hood strut and moved it on the side
Day 12
Piping welded and oil return done
Day 13
Everything back together and car running
I will update this thread once there is some progress, please note I work the car on my free time and it's normal to see updates only every 2-3 days. Have a good day ! :thumbup:
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