Blakcard
Autocross Newbie
Well then... ball's in your court. :thumbup::happyanim::clap:
6
Need an objective opinion (deciding between two GTIs to purchase)
- Thread starter torga
- Start date
Well then... ball's in your court. :thumbup::happyanim::clap:
torga
Autocross Champion
Alternatively, someone cost me a bunch of money by neglecting maintainence on a Stage 2 car. I have no idea how that car was driven.
The first owner did all the tuning. The second owner had it for a year, put 20k miles on it and traded it in. That's all I know.
1ashchuckton
Autocross Champion
You have zero idea how either of these cars have been treated. If it was me I'd be looking for one without mods. I think both of these are a high risk of costly repairs.
torga
Autocross Champion
If I had the time to look for a more stock one, I'd be doing that.
But I need a car soon and I'd rather have a GTI than "waste" money on some safe econobox that I won't enjoy driving. I don't live in a populous area, so I don't have too many fun, daily options.
I'm willing to incur a risk and am used to working on cars, but I'm attempting to minimize that risk right now.
So learning that the 2013 has been tuned its entire life kinda puts the 2011 higher up on my "lowest potential risk" scale.
But I need a car soon and I'd rather have a GTI than "waste" money on some safe econobox that I won't enjoy driving. I don't live in a populous area, so I don't have too many fun, daily options.
I'm willing to incur a risk and am used to working on cars, but I'm attempting to minimize that risk right now.
So learning that the 2013 has been tuned its entire life kinda puts the 2011 higher up on my "lowest potential risk" scale.
uglybastard
Autocross Champion
I'd go with the 2013, in case the tensioner goes. Just my 2 cemts.
torga
Autocross Champion
The tensioner will be replaced on the 2011 while the owner is having the timing cover leak repaired.
The intake manifold was replaced under warranty today, as well as the coolant leak fixed (it was a coupling).
zrickety
The Fixer
I know that coupling on the water pump, it just needs a couple new o-rings. Everybody is afraid of modded cars, I say be cautious, do a good inspection. But if it runs and drives good today it will run and drive good tomorrow. Do the engine oil and transmission fluid whatever car you buy, in my experience it will last a long time.
Blakcard
Autocross Newbie
2013
:thumbsup:
:icon_secta:
At the end of the day, go with your gut. Sure we can weigh in but it's always gonna be your wrench and your wallet and your risk regardless of which one you choose.
Just know unless you are fully aware of what the buyer/seller laws are in your state once you get hand over the money in a private sale.. .good luck getting any cooperation from the seller if any other issues come up.
there MAY be some kind of recourse with the selling dealer even if it is a Used Car lot.
What ever your choice is, it will be a good one and we'll offer all the support and combined knowledge we can so you get extract as much fun driving your new car.
Good luck to you.
:thumbsup:
:icon_secta:
At the end of the day, go with your gut. Sure we can weigh in but it's always gonna be your wrench and your wallet and your risk regardless of which one you choose.
Just know unless you are fully aware of what the buyer/seller laws are in your state once you get hand over the money in a private sale.. .good luck getting any cooperation from the seller if any other issues come up.
there MAY be some kind of recourse with the selling dealer even if it is a Used Car lot.
What ever your choice is, it will be a good one and we'll offer all the support and combined knowledge we can so you get extract as much fun driving your new car.
Good luck to you.
I'm still on board for the 2013. 
However, if you're still going back and forth I would suggest using maintenance as the deciding factor. That said, do either cars have their full service records available?
If so, you should absolutely compare their records to the MK6 GTI recommended schedule, https://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37095
However, if you're still going back and forth I would suggest using maintenance as the deciding factor. That said, do either cars have their full service records available?
If so, you should absolutely compare their records to the MK6 GTI recommended schedule, https://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37095
riceburner
Autocross Champion
There are more things i would do if i was undecided on how hard a vehicle has been driven.
I thorough inspection of both cars to look for how detailing/general level of care goes a long way in my book. Someone who CARES about their car isn't going to ABUSE it as much.... i.e., look for the one with the cleaner/tidier engine bay, door jams, cleaner carpets, all that stuff. If its kept clean to a good point, chances are it was maintained better as well.
We all drive our cars pretty hard but those of us who take the proper precautions and preventative maintenance have cars with more miles/mods that are really in a more mechanically sound condition than a beat on, neglected car with fewer miles.
just something to consider, that isn't 100% fact but i think a pretty reasonable gauge to use.
Jack it up, inspect the suspension, measure the tire wear on the inside and outside of each tire, look to see how orange or brown the coolant is, the list goes on.
I thorough inspection of both cars to look for how detailing/general level of care goes a long way in my book. Someone who CARES about their car isn't going to ABUSE it as much.... i.e., look for the one with the cleaner/tidier engine bay, door jams, cleaner carpets, all that stuff. If its kept clean to a good point, chances are it was maintained better as well.
We all drive our cars pretty hard but those of us who take the proper precautions and preventative maintenance have cars with more miles/mods that are really in a more mechanically sound condition than a beat on, neglected car with fewer miles.
just something to consider, that isn't 100% fact but i think a pretty reasonable gauge to use.
Jack it up, inspect the suspension, measure the tire wear on the inside and outside of each tire, look to see how orange or brown the coolant is, the list goes on.
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theclutch
Go Kart Newbie
Based on the information above, I would go with the 2011. This is all assuming, of course, that the chain tensioner has been replaced with the most recent version. Otherwise, it could be a deal-breaker for me. The other thing to consider is, that there is a $3,000 difference between the two. You could theoretically buy the APR setup and new coil overs for that and then some. However, at 115k miles, other suspension bits like bushings will need replacement versus the 2013 model. But that still doesn't equate to the $3,000 difference. Lastly, the 2013 exhaust setup seems bastardized (removed cat, replaced cat, replaced exhaust, etc.). Were they welded or reput together correctly? Leaks?... too many unknowns. Lastly, you need to check for exhaust manifold studs breaking (if broken, you will see exhaust leakage from cylinder closest to driver side in a US car) and also need to perform an engine leak down test for both cars. As a data point I've had an APR with an Audi 4 cylinder 296k miles! Half of that was on the track... okay maybe not half but a lot!
alpha3
Go Kart Champion
Post is pretty much spot on, I think; a good overall assessment goes a long way. Candidate with lots of miles but well cared for/maintained can be far ahead of a low-miles abused one.
MrFancypants
Autocross Champion
In general I do agree with you, but if the upgrades are from companies that are known to put out good quality products I don't feel like it's much of a risk here. It's not often that someone comes around with an APR tune that complains about it causing damage to the engine. Not that it isn't possible, just seems unlikely.
To me the APR tune is the cherry on top if it's what you intended to do anyway.