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Stage 1+ Cobb Tuning - P2177 Edition

cinciGTI25

New member
New to the forum but a seasoned VW driver and wrencher.

I just put a Cobb Tuning Stage 1+ kit on the car and subsequent tune on my 2013 GTI Drivers Edition, DSG at 44k miles. I made sure everything was tight and tidy in the engine bay, but when driving in "D" mode only, not DSG, I get a P2177 CEL when the car is traveling at 10mph and I press down on the gas pedal. :mad0259:

I'm not sure why I'm getting a Lean Bank 1 Off Idle code, but all the vacuum lines seem tight and it isn't happening when I'm using the paddle shifters or in sport mode. I just put a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in - but any other thoughts as to what it may be?

Any help would be appreciated.


Brian
 

lilonespaz

Drag Race Newbie
Are you capable of data logging? If so throw up some logs. Preferable 4th gear pulls but 3rd will work if necessary.
 

Alex@Stratified

Go Kart Newbie
Hey, looks like the MAF cal or reading may be off. Are you using the COBB intake? Sometimes even the placement of the filter on the end of the pipe can throw things off at idle ... the MAF is most sensitive at idle.
 

cinciGTI25

New member
Thanks @alex@Stratifeld.

I am using the Cobb intake - I do have the MAF readings on the Cobb tuner along with the A/F ratios. Is there anything specifically I should be looking at?
 

Natemk6

Passed Driver's Ed
Thanks @alex@Stratifeld.



I am using the Cobb intake - I do have the MAF readings on the Cobb tuner along with the A/F ratios. Is there anything specifically I should be looking at?



I'm not sure wh were you are in cincinnati, but there are a few different places where you could do some safe 4th gear pulls. If you can start logging around 2500 rpm in 4th gear and then go WOT until 5500-6000rpm that will provide some insight into how your car is running and potentially what is causing your issue. Also if you google datazap it will convert your logs into an easy to read graph
 

WeekendWarriorz

Ready to race!
I'm not sure wh were you are in cincinnati, but there are a few different places where you could do some safe 4th gear pulls. If you can start logging around 2500 rpm in 4th gear and then go WOT until 5500-6000rpm that will provide some insight into how your car is running and potentially what is causing your issue. Also if you google datazap it will convert your logs into an easy to read graph

When logging, what parameters should you choose to log on the accessport?
 

corman1313

Ready to race!
When logging, what parameters should you choose to log on the accessport?

Follow Alex's lead on this one and I would recommend getting a pro tune from him. I am just about finishing up my pro tune with him after getting a shotty dyno tune from Cobb SoCal and I am very happy, car is running great.
 

Natemk6

Passed Driver's Ed
When logging, what parameters should you choose to log on the accessport?


Every log I have done has been with the default parameters which covers most the main things.

For the purposes of getting an e tune each tuner has specific parameters that they want to see. I don't have one yet but plan on getting one from either Alex or Justin. A while back Justin posted what he asks for and if I can find it I will post it here.
 

Natemk6

Passed Driver's Ed
When logging, what parameters should you choose to log on the accessport?


Here is what Justin said in another Cobb thread

"This is a base of what I tell clients I need unless I'm looking for something specific...


Datalogs: on flat level ground. preferably straight with no turns I need a few things.*

1. in second gear starting at about 2000rpms, accelerate linearly and moderately. not full throttle but like accelerating from a stop light up to about 5500rpms or until the MAF Flow crests 100g/s*

2. one 3rd gear pull and one 4th gear pull starting from 2800-3000rpms up to about redline (separate pulls)*

3. one 3rd gear shifting into 4th and holding WOT in 4th gear for about 3 to 4 seconds (so I can check post shift timing recovery) can start this pull from like 3300rpms or so.*

Parameters I need logged:*

Accelerator Pedal Position*
AFR*
AFR Commanded*
Boost Pressure*
Camshaft Overlap Angle*
Coolant Temp*
ETC Angle Actual*
Fuel Quality*
Gear Current*
IAT*
Knock Retard Cyl.1-4*
Load Actual*
Load Request*
Long Term Fuel Trim*
MAF (airflow g/s)*
Rail Pressure*
RPM*
Target Boost Pressure (not the max or filtered one)*
Timing Final*
Torque Actual*
Tumble Flap Position*
WGDC

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk"
 

urbanevil

Ready to race!
Follow Alex's lead on this one and I would recommend getting a pro tune from him. I am just about finishing up my pro tune with him after getting a shotty dyno tune from Cobb SoCal and I am very happy, car is running great.
Agree on this, Alex seems to know his stuff! I've been camping my email for my 1st revision lol.
 

JW with a VW

Go Kart Champion
New to the forum but a seasoned VW driver and wrencher.

I just put a Cobb Tuning Stage 1+ kit on the car and subsequent tune on my 2013 GTI Drivers Edition, DSG at 44k miles. I made sure everything was tight and tidy in the engine bay, but when driving in "D" mode only, not DSG, I get a P2177 CEL when the car is traveling at 10mph and I press down on the gas pedal. :mad0259:

I'm not sure why I'm getting a Lean Bank 1 Off Idle code, but all the vacuum lines seem tight and it isn't happening when I'm using the paddle shifters or in sport mode. I just put a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in - but any other thoughts as to what it may be?

Any help would be appreciated.


Brian
Same exact issue...only when in "D" mode.
 

zrickety

The Fixer
Same exact issue...only when in "D" mode.
Which Cobb intake do you have? Is it the newer one that uses the stock MAF housing or the old design where you screw it in the pipe?
 

JW with a VW

Go Kart Champion
Which Cobb intake do you have? Is it the newer one that uses the stock MAF housing or the old design where you screw it in the pipe?
This one
20200224_171828.jpg
 

zrickety

The Fixer
You may need an air straightener. It's probably why Cobb switched their intake to use the OEM one.
Edit- Wow, you still have the noise pipe?! Look at the neuspeed throttle pipe so you can delete that thing.
 
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