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What did you do to your MK6 2.5 today?

W

Wascally Wabbit1

Drag Racing Champion
I am going to leave mine with no filter media for now. My issue is the line from the valve cover has a big ID and it is a short run to the catch can so I am getting much more oil than moisure and the water vapor vents out of the can. I notice in one of ie's videos thay are running the valve cover vent straight back to the intake. Not sure how they get away with that. If I did that my intake would be a mess. I guess it works if you're just on a dyno or on race day.

Next time ie has a sale I may buy their intake and run my can back to the intake. Right now I don't have a spot for it.
 
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J

jones5377

New member
MLue1 said:
No, even below 40F if the air is humid or rainy it fills up pretty fast.

The Home Depot Compressor Drier that is used is probably doing a really good job, it is after all an air compressor air drier, designed to remove moisture from air.

The $h!t is nasty to clean out !!! Your choice, you can probably replace the media/baffle plates with steel wool if you'd like, its cheap enough. The idea is to have enough cool surface area for the oily vapor to come incontact with, cool and stick, then drip off.

Call me Mr JB Weld as I JB welded the valve in the bottom of the container, so it wouldn't leak. I didn't want to spend money on buying two large barbs, so I JB welded two regular ones that fit the hoses I had laying around to the Home Depot Catch Can.

I said it cost $50, it's actually alot less; it breaks down to $24 USD plus tax converts to $35 CAD, then 2 Barbs for $5, Hose for $5 and of course $6 for JB Weld. If you have some these laying around it would be a few dollars less.

For anyone around Toronto that want a Home Depot Compressor Drier to make a Catch Can, I have an extra brand new one still in the package for $35 CAD. Its like $45 plus HST at Home Depot in Canada.




OT: I love that Boars Head Horseradish with Boars Head Roast Beef I buy while I'm down south.
Click to expand...



How did you secure the HD catch can? Does it have a bracket?
 
FlowMK6

FlowMK6

Ready to race!
Wascally Wabbit said:
If you are still running with pcv you won't have a huge problem. When I'm was running the stock manifold and valve cover I wasn't getting anywhere close to the oily sludgy nastiness I am now. When they talk about cold they mean really cold, like freezing cold.
Click to expand...

The stock valve colver got some kind of oil filter already

Valve cover gasket failed again after 1 year, I won't use an other Victor Reinz gasket, I might give a try to a fel-pro

As for the PCV hose, I won't be using the Spulen one anymore, the catch can didn't catch any oil, the oil get stuck at the bottom of the hose... I will use bigger fitting on the catch can that fit the with the stock PCV hose diameter and I will use a hose that is directly connected to the catch can, since my catch can is lower that PCV, the oil should fall right into the catch can when the engine is not running

Received my injectors seals, I will replace them at the same time of my valve cover gasket, got Mann oil filter and I'm going to give a try to the Liqui Moly oil :iono:
 
W

Wascally Wabbit1

Drag Racing Champion
Ya the stock cover has a baffle in it. If you pull that cover off the underside of the valve cover it is just empty space.

How did the valve cover gasket fail? Have you had moee than one fail. I just installed one of those on my ie valve cover so I curious what to look out for.
 
M

MLue1

Drag Racing Champion
FlowMK6 said:
The stock valve colver got some kind of oil filter already

Valve cover gasket failed again after 1 year, I won't use an other Victor Reinz gasket, I might give a try to a fel-pro

As for the PCV hose, I won't be using the Spulen one anymore, the catch can didn't catch any oil, the oil get stuck at the bottom of the hose... I will use bigger fitting on the catch can that fit the with the stock PCV hose diameter and I will use a hose that is directly connected to the catch can, since my catch can is lower that PCV, the oil should fall right into the catch can when the engine is not running

Received my injectors seals, I will replace them at the same time of my valve cover gasket, got Mann oil filter and I'm going to give a try to the Liqui Moly oil :iono:
Click to expand...
No oil filter on the 2.5 valve cover, I think you are talking about the PCV Diaphragm, check if yours is torn. The valve cover gasket shouldn't fail after a year if the PCV diaphragm is working correctly under proper amount of vacuum, too much and it will fail.

Get rid of the Spulen sh!t and take the vacuum off the IE Intake Manifold taps on the bottom.



jones5377 said:
How did you secure the HD catch can? Does it have a bracket?
Click to expand...
Used long cable ties.
 
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M

MLue1

Drag Racing Champion
Wascally Wabbit said:
I am going to leave mine with no filter media for now. My issue is the line from the valve cover has a big ID and it is a short run to the catch can so I am getting much more oil than moisure and the water vapor vents out of the can. I notice in one of ie's videos thay are running the valve cover vent straight back to the intake. Not sure how they get away with that. If I did that my intake would be a mess. I guess it works if you're just on a dyno or on race day.

Next time ie has a sale I may buy their intake and run my can back to the intake. Right now I don't have a spot for it.
Click to expand...


WW, I just realized that you have a major moisture vapor problem, there is too much "CHEESE" on your baffle plates, we see this in the winter time here in Canada on the bottom of the oil filler caps when there is not enough air circulation to remove the moisture from the engine or the engine is not warmed up or run long enough to burn off the moisture. Since you are driving your car hard it must be an air flow problem to remove the excess moisture. This can shorten the life of your engine as it will clog up the channels inside the engine as time goes on. To get better air flow, try running the vent from the Catch Can back to the filter side like IE does, the water vapors get sucked into the Throttle body under vacuum is better than a sick engine... . If you were running the stock VW valve cover I would say run the vent back to the plenum as the orginal PCV would be in play.

You can thank me later, take care of this right away! :D and get an oil change as the Cheese is a mixture of oil, moisture and some of the detergents from additive package from the oil, so it weakens the oil.
 
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W

Wascally Wabbit1

Drag Racing Champion
Ya but the catch can is the only place that this appears. There is no sign of this anywhere else. I think it is due to the large hose size and how close the catch can is to the valve cover. Everywhere else the oil looks like clean beautiful life giving oil.

I dont have any white coming out of the valve cover or under it.



To elaborate I am getting more oil in the can now and that is collecting moisture as the vapor passes through causing an overproduction of this cheese as opposed to just water. I think I would need to move the catch can further away from the valve cover and if I did this I would have to add vacuum to it.

Also I get alot of fog where I live as well.

 
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W

Wascally Wabbit1

Drag Racing Champion
Long story short I am not worried about it. All signs point to that s*** being in the catch can where it belongs. I don't think I am having moisture issues in the engine. I am having oil issues in the catch can. And that has become apparent in the engine as well as I was half a quart low after 2500 miles. I have never had to add oil in the past and it seems in line with what I am seeing in the can coupled with the additional blowby from so much "testing". Also I had to remove the air filter on the can because it was getting saturated with oil.
In other words I believe this is forming in the can not coming out of the engine.

In the end I am likely going to go with IE CAI and mount the can over by the master cylinder if possible. Higer and further away from the valve cover. Then vent back to the CAI where IE vents back in their settup.

I'll likely do the brakes, valve springs and CAI setip at the same time. Make a weekend of it.
 
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FlowMK6

FlowMK6

Ready to race!
MLue1 said:
No oil filter on the 2.5 valve cover, I think you are talking about the PCV Diaphragm, check if yours is torn. The valve cover gasket shouldn't fail after a year if the PCV diaphragm is working correctly under proper amount of vacuum, too much and it will fail.

Get rid of the Spulen sh!t and take the vacuum off the IE Intake Manifold taps on the bottom.



Used long cable ties.
Click to expand...

There is some kind of bafle on the valve cover already

And as for the PCV diaphragm, it's gone ^^ Tried to remove the oil cap when engine is running and .... Vacuum... Ordered the Dorman kit

And for PCV hose, I will do it like that:



Wascally Wabbit said:
Ya the stock cover has a baffle in it. If you pull that cover off the underside of the valve cover it is just empty space.

How did the valve cover gasket fail? Have you had moee than one fail. I just installed one of those on my ie valve cover so I curious what to look out for.
Click to expand...

Oil leaks, last year spark plugs and coilpack were full of oil, replaced coil packs, plugs and the gasket for a Victor Reinz, OEM one and yesterday, gaskets is leaking at the rear near the exhaust manifold, smell burned oil and saw vapor, I will put a Fel-pro gasket, new PCV diaphragm and change the catch can setup a bit, then the injectors seal and oil change, car should be fine then :)
 
M

MLue1

Drag Racing Champion
Tool for getting at bolt under the Intake Manifold

I remember someone asking about a Tool for getting at the bolt under the Intake Manifold. I've taken off my intake manifold a number of times, here is what i use for the one under the intake manifold as well thread all the rest of them.
Long Flex Driver with 6mm hex head bit from my Craftsman Allen socket.
The older Caftsman Allen sockets had removable bits held in with a #2 allen screw. Since the Flex Driver uses 6mm bits and the manifold Bolts are 6mm as well; you can cut a 6mm Allen wrench and insert it directly into the Flex Driver.

Hope that helps !

Cheers

EDIT: BUT if your manifold has never been off since the factory, you may need something with a bit more leverage to break the bolts loose.
 

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R

Rickybobbi

Ready to race!
KanyesChest said:
Found an APR Carbonio on my local Kijiji for $250 CAD. Can't wait to pick up and get it into the car!
Click to expand...

There is a guy selling one in the GTA as wll. He wants 300 for it. I just cant justify spending that kind of money for just a sound. Made my own intake for less than 80.
 
M

MLue1

Drag Racing Champion
Rickybobbi said:
There is a guy selling one in the GTA as wll. He wants 300 for it. I just cant justify spending that kind of money for just a sound. Made my own intake for less than 80.
Click to expand...
+1 Agreed, that money is half way to getting Tuned.

According to my sources, APR only sold a few hundred of these, since both of you are in the GTA, what are the chances it's the same guy selling this part.
 
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R

Rickybobbi

Ready to race!
MLue1 said:
+1 Agreed, that money is half way to getting Tuned.

According to my sources, APR only sold a few hundred of these, since both of you are in the GTA, what are the chances it's the same guy selling this part.
Click to expand...

Could be, hes selling with the APR filter and water cover for 300 or with a p-flow for 250.
 
K

KanyesChest

Ready to race!
Rickybobbi said:
Could be, hes selling with the APR filter and water cover for 300 or with a p-flow for 250.
Click to expand...


That's exactly the one that I'm looking at haha! I'm not mech savvy enough to put together my own intake with confidence, but hopefully installing the carbonio myself will get me into more upcoming hands on work.


Edit: Actually, upon more research, making a short ram instead of cold air seems to be simple enough. I don't have many tools here in Toronto, but will look more into what I can do to save some $ for suspension instead.



On a side note, does anyone know if swapping to GTI springs + swaybars will net me better handling, or would I need the GTI dampers as well?
 
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