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Diverter valve type C is piston type

sgessler2011

Ready to race!
I just finished removing the diverter valve from my 2011 GTI.
It's part #06H 145 710 C

I expected to find the type with the rubber diaphragm membrane instead this one does have a piston. I went ahead and ordered a D type due to the fact that I went APR stage 1. So it seems I now have two piston type diverters.

Steve

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sgessler2011

Ready to race!
12/10 build date
FYI the type D valve came from Europa Auto Parts. It had a sticker over the ID # and the VW Audi logos were removed.
 
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sgessler2011

Ready to race!
So I'm assuming that the new GTIs come with the better diverter valve.
Looks like I now have a spare.
 
P

plac

Guest
hmmm my DV pic.. what do those graphs tell me again? aside from the C looks to have more unnatural spikes?
 

SFvalleyGTi1

Go Kart Champion
hmmm my DV pic.. what do those graphs tell me again? aside from the C looks to have more unnatural spikes?


:) Didn't check where that DV picture came from... just pulled it from google quickly...

Graph shows that DV rev. C when cold has a nice spike in boost but holds boost better than rev. D. (actual boost closely matches requested boost)

It could also mean that rev. C spikes so much that the car pulls timing and reduces boost, hence the falling graph?

Also seems that when warmed up, that rev. D has a little more boost than rev. C.

Question is, is this the same rev. C as OP has? Which looks damn close to rev. D.
 

sgessler2011

Ready to race!
Wow you just saved me $100. I thought my DV was leaking when I went Stage 2. I've been putting off the purchase of the DV rev. D...

I also have a MY11 GTI with rev. C, I had once googled rev. C and people said it was the cheap model with diaphragm.

Edit: Link...

http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5139

The version C valve on my car is definitely a piston type. It only lacks the small cage on the end that the D version has.
 

sgessler2011

Ready to race!
Since you got the rev. D, why not install it and see if you notice any difference? If you have a vagcom even better... take some logs.

I did install the D valve since I had already gone throughout the trouble removing the C. I'm thinking the car pulls a bit more, but this may very well be a placebo effect.

I don't plan to swap it back to C, reinstalling it was crazy. I had the car on rhino ramps, but even then it was tough on my back.
The diverter is held to the turbo via three 5mm bolts. I searched for a 1/4 drive 5mm hex socket. At Sears they simply do not exist. I purchased a cheap 3/8 drive set at harbor freight with a socket converter set. This allowed me to use a 1/4 drive ratchet, 1/4 drive extension and then the adapter stepped the size up from 1/4 to 3/8 ( the size of the hex socket.)
Reinstalling the bolts I dropped the top one and it landed in one of the control arm cavities. Luckily I have a small piece of rare earth magnet from a MRI machine, it powerfully pulled the bolt up and out of the crevice.
I should add that I used a regular 5mm Allen key long side in the bolt head with the tube end of a screwdriver that has the Phillips/ slot end that reverses in a hollow barrel end. This allowed me leverage on the small end of the Allen key.
Anyways, that's the story. On VCDS what tests should I run? I've never used it with the car in motion.
Steve
 
P

plac

Guest
:) Didn't check where that DV picture came from... just pulled it from google quickly...

Graph shows that DV rev. C when cold has a nice spike in boost but holds boost better than rev. D. (actual boost closely matches requested boost)

It could also mean that rev. C spikes so much that the car pulls timing and reduces boost, hence the falling graph?

Also seems that when warmed up, that rev. D has a little more boost than rev. C.

Question is, is this the same rev. C as OP has? Which looks damn close to rev. D.

so really, they even themselves out in the end.. peaks are useless and not the ideal situation. i guess you want the one that most closely matches the requested line.
 

SFvalleyGTi1

Go Kart Champion
so really, they even themselves out in the end.. peaks are useless and not the ideal situation. i guess you want the one that most closely matches the requested line.


Yes, closer to the requested line, the happier the motor runs. Those spikes/peaks are not good, but I believe that has to do with the tune. Boost should always be a steady number, until top end when it usually drops off.
 
P

plac

Guest
although for butt dyno purposes, i love the peak.. it really starts you off strong.
 

DBESTGTI1

Go Kart Champion
I'm not sure the graphs are really relavent to the subject. The divertor valve releases boost, the wastegate regulates it.
 
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