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P0010 camshaft position actuator malfunction

PR_dub

Passed Driver's Ed
Got a code last night and haven't had much luck searching online, maybe you guys have a clue what it might be.

P0010 bank 1 camshaft A (intake)
Camshaft actuator malfunction

Was running an M4 and had a couple of rolls from 60, when I pulled off on my exit, looked down and saw check engine light come on. On one of the runs I shifted at 7k 4th to 5th.

The car seems OK with no sounds nor vibrations. I cleared codes but still pop back after engine is started again.

Oil level is ok, fresh change a week ago, might it be a tensioner problem? Skipped 1 tooth on the chain? Want to see if it's something I can sort out or it has to go to the shop to further diagnose.

Car is APR K04 FBO
Any help is appreciated. Thanks



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BudgetPhoenix

Autocross Champion
Id suspect this is more of an issue related to the actual camshaft adjuster magnet / n205 VVT valve or an electrical issue in the wiring to it. You're not throwing any other timing correlation codes that would lead me to believe you skipped any teeth. Check the wiring going to the adjuster, also its possible to remove the n205 from the cam bridge and inspect it but you'll need a special socket and its left hand threaded.

There's also an output test you can perform for proper function apparently but ive never done it before. My only experience with the valve is removing it and cleaning it out when I did my timing job.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/P000A/000010
 

PR_dub

Passed Driver's Ed
Id suspect this is more of an issue related to the actual camshaft adjuster magnet / n205 VVT valve or an electrical issue in the wiring to it. You're not throwing any other timing correlation codes that would lead me to believe you skipped any teeth. Check the wiring going to the adjuster, also its possible to remove the n205 from the cam bridge and inspect it but you'll need a special socket and its left hand threaded.

There's also an output test you can perform for proper function apparently but ive never done it before. My only experience with the valve is removing it and cleaning it out when I did my timing job.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/P000A/000010
Yeah I found the same link from Ross tech on posible causes. I am going to clean the n205 and check connections, run an output test on the sensor and go from there.. If still faulty, I'll replace n205 and position sensor and hopefully that takes care of it. If not then probably go to the shop to be diagnosed. Don't wanna run the car too much till then just in case

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BudgetPhoenix

Autocross Champion
I know the magnetic adjuster has been revised a few times as well. The earlier ones had a metal body and the later revisions are a plastic body, not sure which one you have but or if the older ones experienced any failures.
 

NYCSuits

Go Kart Champion
My guess is tensioner is close to failure or you have chain stretch. I had a P0010 code at 135k when my chain stretched but you are under 60k, which leads me to believe it might not be chain stretch. Check measuring block 093 in the engine control module in Vagcom and see if it's in the -4/+4 range to confirm it isn't the chain.
 

BudgetPhoenix

Autocross Champion
My guess is tensioner is close to failure or you have chain stretch. I had a P0010 code at 135k when my chain stretched but you are under 60k, which leads me to believe it might not be chain stretch. Check measuring block 093 in the engine control module in Vagcom and see if it's in the -4/+4 range to confirm it isn't the chain.

Mine was at -4.50 when I replaced my chain, I never threw any codes though. I would get startup rattles in warm temps after the car was driven for a bit.
 
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PR_dub

Passed Driver's Ed
My guess is tensioner is close to failure or you have chain stretch. I had a P0010 code at 135k when my chain stretched but you are under 60k, which leads me to believe it might not be chain stretch. Check measuring block 093 in the engine control module in Vagcom and see if it's in the -4/+4 range to confirm it isn't the chain.
Car has around 57k miles on it. It's a 2011 and I haven't done the chain tensioner so that's another one on the list of things to get done.

I ran the test on 93-3 measuring block Sunday morning after it happened as I was recommended on a fb post. Got - 2.27 at idle (gave 5 min to warm up in garage) and - 2.41 when revved. Value stayed there and didn't budge afterwards.

You think it might be tensioner on its way out?

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BudgetPhoenix

Autocross Champion
Car has around 57k miles on it. It's a 2011 and I haven't done the chain tensioner so that's another one on the list of things to get done.

I ran the test on 93-3 measuring block Sunday morning after it happened as I was recommended on a fb post. Got - 2.27 at idle (gave 5 min to warm up in garage) and - 2.41 when revved. Value stayed there and didn't budge afterwards.

You think it might be tensioner on its way out?

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If you have the old style I would say its always on the verge of going out lol, but usually you'll start to hear startup rattle. You never know though... Though once the details of the lawsuit settlement are hashed out there may be a timing chain warranty extension for those affected years. But based on block 93 I wouldn't say your chain is stretched. After I put in a new chain I sit around -1.50 on block 93.
 

PR_dub

Passed Driver's Ed
Yeah I'll get a tensioner on order and install over the weekend. Thankfully it's my weekend car so not in a hurry to drive the GTi. It's a 2011 and I've owned since 2013 2nd owner, and to my knowledge it wasnt done as there is nothing on the carfax nor any paperwork left on the car. I'll check to confirm it's the old one prior to ordering.

Is the n205 accesible to be cleaned out? I've been doing a lot of research and it seems all I need is the special tool and I'd be able to remove and clean. Hopefully thats it and I can get the code clear. Both times it popped up was under light load at around 2k rpms.
If you have the old style I would say its always on the verge of going out lol, but usually you'll start to hear startup rattle. You never know though... Though once the details of the lawsuit settlement are hashed out there may be a timing chain warranty extension for those affected years. But based on block 93 I wouldn't say your chain is stretched. After I put in a new chain I sit around -1.50 on block 93.

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BudgetPhoenix

Autocross Champion
Yeah I'll get a tensioner on order and install over the weekend. Thankfully it's my weekend car so not in a hurry to drive the GTi. It's a 2011 and I've owned since 2013 2nd owner, and to my knowledge it wasnt done as there is nothing on the carfax nor any paperwork left on the car. I'll check to confirm it's the old one prior to ordering.

Is the n205 accesible to be cleaned out? I've been doing a lot of research and it seems all I need is the special tool and I'd be able to remove and clean. Hopefully thats it and I can get the code clear. Both times it popped up was under light load at around 2k rpms.

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Ive done with the upper timing cover removed, but I think you should be able to do it with the magnetic adjuster removed only. The magnetic adjuster itself may be the issue though too based of what the rosstech site says.
 
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