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Old 01-16-2016, 08:16 PM   #29
zrickety
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It's roughly half a gallon if I recall. Keep the hose ends up and don't drain the radiator unless you want to.
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He's a real straight shooter, no monkey business, and the wheel swap at the Kohl's parking lot was quick and easy.
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Well i did use a breaker bar to snug up that nut instead of a torque wrench.
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my subframe has been out twice without replacing any bolts and I don't have subframe clunks and my world hasn't ended and my car hasn't blown up.
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Old 01-21-2016, 08:41 PM   #30
CustomZ02
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Pretty sure my pump went out, dumped all my coolant leaving my cousins house last sunday. Dealer quoted me $930 to repair, but seeing how the part is only $212 at ECS im going to attempt to save myself $700 and do this my self.

Would removing the grill and front bumper make this any easier to access the area? I don't think it would but asking cause my brother in law is a mechanic and was wanting to remove it.

Also anyone have a list of tools required, I know there's a pic but I cant tell what size anything is specifically the bit for the screws.

And one more sorry for all the questions, but is it normal for there to be oil all over the intake manifold as well? Could this have also come from the pump?

Thanks
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Old 01-22-2016, 08:50 AM   #31
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removing the bumper won't help unless you pull the intercooler and radiator with it. in my diy i remove the intake manifold for easier access and allows you to see everything.
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If you already have an intake, might as well just go big turbo while you're in the engine bay. Just my 2 cents.
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It's only then when I realize, in a moment of clarity, I should have bought Honda.
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Old 01-22-2016, 09:26 AM   #32
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Are you sure it's your water pump? Typically people complain of leaks, not complete loss of coolant.
Assuming it's the pump, just follow DBEST's instructions. Removing those extra items would be a waste of time. The only item I would have liked to remove to make the job easier is that stupid plastic engine shroud that covers the top of the IC and radiator, but I didn't want to get into that.

For specific tools you'll need a T30 bit for throttle body bolts and water pump bolts and some others, T25 for belly pan bolts, a triple square bit for the engine block to intake manifold support bracket, I think that's a 12M. During disassembly my craftsman socket wrenches sucked due to the low degree of swing arc required in tight spots, so for assembly I bought some gearwrench 120xp wrenches with the money saved on labor. These things engage a tooth every three degrees of rotation, they're f'ing awesome. You'll also need a variety of socket extensions.
http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-812.../dp/B00BTEXUY4

Beware of the ECS pump, there is an issue I ran into last night with the bolts that secure the impeller to the housing. I'll post here in a bit once I get the photos edited.
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Old 01-22-2016, 09:54 AM   #33
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How To - Water pump replacement, the quick and easy way

After I got the new pump installed I ran into an issue when trying to bolt the belt cover back on. The bolt heads that secure the impeller to the housing are too tall and prevent the cover from lining up with the threaded hole (circled in white). You can see on the old pump the bolt head does not protrude past the face, which allows the cover to sit flush with the plastic. On the new pump the housing sits on the bolt head and gets pushed a few mm to the right, thus preventing the bolt from engaging the threads. I had to swap one bolt from the old pump. They are not the same length but it seems to be working.



ECS pump I bought
https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2837068/
Mfg Part #
06H121026CQ
ECS Part #
ES#2837068
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Last edited by slowgti; 01-22-2016 at 10:15 AM.
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Old 01-22-2016, 11:38 AM   #34
CustomZ02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowgti View Post
Are you sure it's your water pump? Typically people complain of leaks, not complete loss of coolant.
Assuming it's the pump, just follow DBEST's instructions. Removing those extra items would be a waste of time. The only item I would have liked to remove to make the job easier is that stupid plastic engine shroud that covers the top of the IC and radiator, but I didn't want to get into that.

For specific tools you'll need a T30 bit for throttle body bolts and water pump bolts and some others, T25 for belly pan bolts, a triple square bit for the engine block to intake manifold support bracket, I think that's a 12M. During disassembly my craftsman socket wrenches sucked due to the low degree of swing arc required in tight spots, so for assembly I bought some gearwrench 120xp wrenches with the money saved on labor. These things engage a tooth every three degrees of rotation, they're f'ing awesome. You'll also need a variety of socket extensions.
http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-812.../dp/B00BTEXUY4

Beware of the ECS pump, there is an issue I ran into last night with the bolts that secure the impeller to the housing. I'll post here in a bit once I get the photos edited.
I have my fingers crossed that it is, I know before dumping all the coolant I always had to top it off when it got cold out. The level would always drop during cold weather. But I know the coolant leak is in the pump area as thats where all the coolant was dripping from.

And thanks for all the replys
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Last edited by CustomZ02; 01-22-2016 at 12:23 PM.
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Old 01-22-2016, 03:18 PM   #35
kern417
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mine would do that. once the thermostat opened it would begin dumping coolant past the gasket. and when stopping after a long drive the cooling fans would turn on and it would dump out again.
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If you already have an intake, might as well just go big turbo while you're in the engine bay. Just my 2 cents.
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It's only then when I realize, in a moment of clarity, I should have bought Honda.
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Old 01-22-2016, 05:23 PM   #36
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The triple square used is a 10M
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Old 01-22-2016, 05:47 PM   #37
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Isn't VW replacing these for free now? I recently got mail offering re-imbursement if I'd had the work done already.
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Old 01-22-2016, 07:35 PM   #38
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Isn't VW replacing these for free now? I recently got mail offering re-imbursement if I'd had the work done already.
I checked my VIN number and apparently mine is not covered under the free replacement. Was the very first thing I checked.
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Old 01-23-2016, 12:38 AM   #39
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Well, I went to the dealer and picked up a new BG pump.

$216 and some change.

Got the old pump off and sure enough a big chunk of plastic blew out where it failed. Apparently my car is not on their list of the free replacement, but Im going to take the old pump in tomorrow when I pick up a new union. I'm gonna have them check to see if its one of the faulty pumps. I have my fingers crossed that it is so I can have it reimbursed and towed back to them to put the new one in.

Or if anyone knows for sure what part number they are replacing take a look at the pics below for the Part number.

Thanks,
Z02





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Old 01-23-2016, 12:37 PM   #40
zrickety
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Looks like the o-ring gasket?
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Originally Posted by rs999 View Post
He's a real straight shooter, no monkey business, and the wheel swap at the Kohl's parking lot was quick and easy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GTI_likeurmom View Post
Well i did use a breaker bar to snug up that nut instead of a torque wrench.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GreasyGinzo View Post
my subframe has been out twice without replacing any bolts and I don't have subframe clunks and my world hasn't ended and my car hasn't blown up.
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Old 01-23-2016, 04:21 PM   #41
kern417
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the gasket moved because the plastic that should be holding it in place was broken.

and how do you have a BA pump? has it been replaced before? if your vin isn't on the list it doesn't matter what the part number is, especially since you already removed it yourself. but if they replaced it within the last 12 months/12,000miles i think it should be free regardless.
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do a burnout.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RGTI13 View Post
If you already have an intake, might as well just go big turbo while you're in the engine bay. Just my 2 cents.
Quote:
Originally Posted by erball View Post
It's only then when I realize, in a moment of clarity, I should have bought Honda.
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Old 01-23-2016, 06:05 PM   #42
CustomZ02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kern417 View Post
the gasket moved because the plastic that should be holding it in place was broken.

and how do you have a BA pump? has it been replaced before? if your vin isn't on the list it doesn't matter what the part number is, especially since you already removed it yourself. but if they replaced it within the last 12 months/12,000miles i think it should be free regardless.
Not sure how I have a BA pump Im guessing thats not the original pump? If so maybe the dealer replaced it before I bought the car. But the service part guy got all worked up when I asked him what the part number was on the bad pumps, so much so that he walked away from the counter and someone else had to help me out.

On the plus side I got the new pump in and no more leak, just gonna keep an eye on the levels and make sure im good.
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