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Old 02-23-2018, 03:03 AM   #71
nadams5755
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KollinWithaK View Post
this is insane. props man, this is all so clean.
thanks, JT does some awesome work
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Old 03-11-2018, 04:02 AM   #72
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i bought a memory foam pillow and cut off a 1" layer. it wasn't any improvement for midbass tactile feedback. the best so far is double vw factory cloth floormats.

i'll try the other two suggestions another time.

i had quite a bit of tactile feedback in the door armrest from the sub. turn off the sub? feedback went away. some local audio nerds suggested i add a layer of mlv in the doors. if that didn't work, add lots of cld (4-5lbs worth).

the process sort of sucked:


but it worked. sub bass feedback from the doors are greatly reduced. took about three hours.

maybe tomorrow, i'll chase some slight b-pillar rattles.

rear wheel well vents are rattling as well but i'm afraid to seal them up.

last but not least: 034 put in a new clutch w/ more holding power and a fresh flywheel this week. also some new swaybar endlinks (factory ones cracked during subframe removal)
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Old 04-18-2018, 02:56 AM   #73
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did something different. i went unlimited class because i didn't want to disassemble for clamping. f-that. it would have been interesting to see how much power it was to get there though.



doors open/closed windows open/closed didn't really make a difference.
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Old 08-14-2018, 01:02 AM   #74
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spent some more time deadening the rest of the interior and tuning.

last season, i tried using a windshield cover for snow, held down w/ magnets to help keep the car cool during shows. even with a lot of neo magnets, a strong wind would lift it up. i took a hint from a friend and put some MLV squares and "quilted" them into the cover. underside is felt, outside is reflective. wife helped, she wants to redo it this fall with black thread inside and clear/gray/white outside.





with the MLV tiles to weigh it down, i don't need magnets anymore and it still folds up nicely.

i pulled the rest of the interior and did the rest of the floorboards and under the seat with CLD, CCF, and MLV:


i avoided trying to "taco" the headliner removing it. CLD on the ceiling. the factory board/fibrous deader was difficult to remove, so i didn't:


and HMF on the headliner:


i stuffed some denim insulation in gaps on the roof as well.

sometimes you need some help holding the headliner in place:


reinstalling everything wasn't any worse than stock. i expected it to be more difficult, but it wasn't.

end result? much reduced road noise, cooler interior, and less subwoofer tactile feedback. i had to re-integrate my subs: more cuts at 20-25hz and adjusting t/a.

all i have left is the rear doors, i'm waiting for more MLV and CCF to show up. i depleted my stock.
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Old 08-30-2018, 02:54 PM   #75
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nice post, in for more details. how did you go about removing the headliner, i.e., through a door or (most likely) the hatch? def looks easiest done with the seats out.

planning to tackle one day as i deaden up my own interior more and maybe alacantara it.
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Old 09-18-2018, 01:49 AM   #76
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i did some lighting-related stuff from oznium.

vw only puts a hatch light on the right side, i replaced one on the right an with 11mm led bolt, added one on the left to match:


installed a couple red led indicators above the director, so i can see the knob at night:



and finally, i installed some 6mm led bolts opposite the midbasses to show off the kicks a little more and make the footwell lights actually usable. it's just enough light. before and after:


excuse the dust
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Old 09-18-2018, 01:59 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riceburner View Post
nice post, in for more details. how did you go about removing the headliner, i.e., through a door or (most likely) the hatch? def looks easiest done with the seats out.

planning to tackle one day as i deaden up my own interior more and maybe alacantara it.
ugh, it kinda sucked.
  • carefully remove all six ABS logos with a trim tool.
  • carefully remove the a pillars, you can tell they put the windshield in last during assembly.
  • carefully remove the visor/mirrors. there's a snap for the harness in the headliner, remove them from the snap.
  • carefully remove the b pillars, bottom first
  • remove the upper hatch trim below the headliner.
  • carefully remove the c pillars.
  • remove the handles.
  • remove the back-seat dome/map lights.
  • remove the front dome light/console.
  • front part headliner is held in place by snaps through the screwholes for the visors and console. carefully remove them from the roof.
it should drop down at that point. you can sort of angle and slide it out the rear hatch with minimal curling.
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Old 09-18-2018, 02:03 AM   #78
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also - these skin wedges are probably the best trim tools you can get. much more durable and less likely to slip off than the usualy injected plastic stuff you can get online.

https://www.browntool.com/Listview/t...5/Default.aspx

keep two, give one away as a gift
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Old 09-26-2018, 02:04 AM   #79
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i hit reset last week and worked out some midbass alignment issues i've had since 2017. i worked on some other tonality stuff that annoyed me.

if i had to judge the car myself, i'd give it an 81-82. i hoped to finish the season with an 83.

MECA CA 2018 State Finals happened Saturday, got a 3-judge of 82.92 (81.5, 83, 84.25) and won best-of-show, which was fun.


i learned quite a bit this season. the community out here is competitive and really supportive.

i've got some more i want to do before world finals in KY but i'm pretty burned out right now and i'm almost out of time. (i don't make changes without letting them bake for a bit)
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Old 09-26-2018, 09:14 AM   #80
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Congrats man, still impressive.
Been thinking about tearing my headliner out since it's sagging anyways (got it that way from previous owner). Figured since it was out I'd add sound deadening, assuming it isn't a huge pain in the ass. Any pro tips?
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Old 09-26-2018, 01:24 PM   #81
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besides the tips above? if you're replacing the liner with something like suede, then you'll have added weight and that won't help sagging.

i suppose i'd use some wide velcro strips in the center of the roof. hold the velcro in in place w/ contact cement.
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Old 10-29-2018, 03:02 AM   #82
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i changed a couple things this summer but wasn't sure how they'd pan out, so i kept them quiet:
  1. replaced the c8s with w800neo midbasses for one reason: get the whole magnet structure behind the cone. sound quality is nearly identical in my set up.
  2. added two tru tech 6ch line drivers after the dsp and before the amps. this let me keep amp gains down to minimize floor noise and maximize dynamics+impact+details.
as for finals? extreme class was a tough field for sure. i know the car sounds very good but i never expected to win the class. i had a goal for getting on the podium and i got third place.

scores were 81.5, 82, and 85 (82.8 average). right in my expected range.

top five overall was a bit of a stretch goal. third in extreme translated to fourth overall, which was cool.

since the car belongs in modex, i competed the 2019 2x show in modex. i got second place, i'll turn the subs on next time.

i've got some more tuning to do in the off season, i might be able to make it sound better but i'm not planning to install any more gear.

i'm fairly certain the stereo's done in this car. there's some limitations which require a pretty big time/money sink for minimal returns. instead, i'll save for the next car+stereo. i've got some ideas.
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Old 10-29-2018, 03:04 AM   #83
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so the 2018 season's over, let's compare scores w/ 2017. were the upgrades worthwhile? yeah.

2017 scores? width and placement were my stronger points. 2018 scores? high frequency tonality and width. Placement was more scattered though. better dynamics, linearity, staging, and tonality overall.

the subwoofer extra cone area helped scores as well.

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