xHeartcoreboyx
IceCream GTI
What's the best way to measure and adjust the gap?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
6
APR 2.0 TSI K04 v3.1 Software Now Available!
- Thread starter Arin@APR
- Start date
Gretchen GTI
Ready to race!
Motodude310
Go Kart Champion
Jamie posted a nice little instructional a few pages back. Can't seem to find it though.
Go to any auto parts store, pick up a feeler gauge and a gap adjuster (or whatever it's called). They're about 5 bucks each. If you're gapping the plug to .026 you want that feeler to have some drag on it, and you shouldn't be able to fit the next size up in there at all. Take your time and be as careful as possible not to damage the tip.
tom@aptuning
VW Service & Performance
I think its the dumbest thing ever. Keep an already inefficient intercooler, keep it but then block it with another? You would be better off just doing the front mount part of the kit. The "twin" portion is just marketing to be different.
Thanks lol I'm just going to go with the SPM front mount, I already have their turbo back so why not keep the flow going
Another question for you guys, best way to keep the oil out of the intercooler and intake? I recently replaced my PCV which drastically helped my disappearing oil level throughout the oil change intervals.
Motodude310
Go Kart Champion
Most guys with catch cans on here swear by them.
dave80
Go Kart Champion
fools. Learned the hard way.
You mean during the winter? Lol, aren't vented catch cans okay for use now?
Motodude310
Go Kart Champion
Yeah, especially with the winter we had tbis year it would have been a pain. Definitely better for warm temps year round.
Tom, I agree with you 100%.
Stock IC's can only handle so much. I have the APR FMIC and I've tracked my car 5 full days already this summer and two of those days were 95+ degree days. Each Track day consisted of 4, 20 minute sessions out on track where the engine was being absolutely punished! Hard braking, right back on the gas full throttle over and over again (just how Cody likes it!) Also two of the four Track Days I ran MS100 with the 100oct tune, once with v2 and once with v3.1.
Each day, even the high temp days, the engine ran strong like bull! No misfires, no alarmingly high engine temps, no hiccups, nothing. Just a ton of A$$ kicking performance and FUN!
So hopefully this can be of good use to any of you who are currently running stock IC's with a K04.
:thumbsup:
Motodude310
Go Kart Champion
You have to switch to the 100 octane file either via the cruise control stalk or APR Mobile. Assuming you got it on sale with program switching. And i would HIGHLY recommend ogging before you go ripping around on the 100 file. 3.1 is leaned out quite a bit and there have already been a couple catostrophic failures in less than ideal situations. i got some not so great gas, luckily with Mobile I'm able to tell the correction factor is too high so I stuck it back in 93. Just gotta wait til the tank is empty and fill up with some good VP stuff.
When switching fuels, you need to remove AS MUCH pump gas as possible from your tank as you can first (run it as empty as possible). The more 100 octane you fill up with, the higher the octane mixture will be since you are blending 93 octane with 100 octane so it will be LESS than 100 octane to some degree. There is also a LOT of pump gas that remains in the fuel lines and surge tank assembly so you need to flush that out. The calibration is for 100 octane, not 100ish octane,lol.
Here is my recommendation:
- Run tank as close to empty as possible
- Fill with as much 100 octane as you can (5 gallon minimum)
- Do a handful of full throttle pulls while still on the pump gas file
- Switch to 100 octane file
We use Sunoco 260GT fuel from containers (not a pump station) for a better controlled consistency. It also has a very similar specific gravity to most pump gas so we know the fuel system will be able to supply the necessary amount. Using a fuel with a lower stoichiometric rating or lower specific gravity can cause the fuel system to have difficulty reaching its target rail pressure or volume. or Just like pump gas, not all 100 octane fuels are created equal. We have seen people run "100 octane" fuels that under no circumstances would compare to many others on the market. Also, we have been sent a batch of 100 octane fuel in containers that was also below the specified octane, most likely due to mislabeling of some sort.
If you want to push your engine, to its fullest, its always wise to take the appropriate steps to ensure your setup is working as intended. There are SO many variables with every aspect of the setup that its always good to know they are all working properly.
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Oh ok, so Jaimie how do we switch to the 100 oct file? Do we need APR mobile? VagCom? For some reason I remember someone saying the tune was adaptive? I think im just losing my mind.