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Front Door Panel Removal Write-up

tmiw

Go Kart Champion
I took a look again and I found the 3rd screw (or is it 4th?) this time. Was able to remove the front driver's door with a bunch of force and only ended up with one door clip that was locked. I only installed the door lights for that door since it was 10pm by then--I'll do the rest tomorrow. How do you unlock the door clips, btw?
 

runriot95

New member
Great write-up! Haven't had much success popping the fasteners off as the door panel doesn't give you much room to get in there at them. Anyway, can someone answer why there are 4 wires going to the factory speaker? Positive and negative is all that's needed. Just curious.
 

JasonH

Ready to race!
To anyone who's removed the door panel:

How difficult would it be to remove the cloth fabric? From the picture, it looks like it's plastic welded in.
The cloth armrest drives me crazy and I'm debating either pulling the cloth off and replacing it or just buying a leather door panel.

Thanks!
 
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phd-12v

Go Kart Champion
Anyway, can someone answer why there are 4 wires going to the factory speaker? Positive and negative is all that's needed. Just curious.

tweeter wires are in parallel.
 

Vidgamer

New member
So, there are no crossovers I guess.

The tweet has a cap. I didn't see anything else.... Probably not necessary to have a crossover on the woofer?

Thanks for the guide. Although, I needed to look at several write ups to get as much info as possible! also, I didn't see it mentioned in any writeup, but with a trim removal tool, if you get in the right spot, you can unlock the clip and not need to yank so hard to remove the door. Hard to get started tho.

Now that my speakers are in, I have a rattle problem. Anyone fix their's? I see mentions of going to fix, but little about actually fixing. After all the time spent getting them in, I don't want to have to redo the mount! The stock panel already has foam.
 

runriot95

New member
also, I didn't see it mentioned in any writeup, but with a trim removal tool, if you get in the right spot, you can unlock the clip and not need to yank so hard to remove the door. Hard to get started tho.

Just discovered this myself the other day. I was surprised that no one mentioned that in all the removal tips that I read. Although getting "the right spot" is a little tricky and A LOT tricky on the hinge side of the door!
 

Vidgamer

New member
I found a plastic set of tools on Amazon. Huge help. I also have a metal tool,but, yeah, that will scratch the paint. One of the plastic ones I used for most of the work.
 

stuartb

New member
To remove the glass...

Remove the two circular rubber blanking panels and adjust the window up/down until you can see the screws on the glass clamps. On mine the screws were positioned with their heads facing the outside of the door. I think a Torx or spline socket is needed to loosen the glass clamps. I got away using a 4 mm hex socket. They loosen clockwise. Once these are loosened the glass can be lifted out. Using rubber gloves for grip helps.

Replacing the glass is easier if you remove the large black plastic access cover (just pops out if you get a thin trim removal tool in there) so that you can get a hand in and guide it in. The access cover is the one at the left of pic 4. A second pair of hands is a good idea also.

Note the glass clamp screws seem to have thread lock on them so it may be proper practice to replace or at least clean and recoat.

I'll post up a how to on the window regulator removal shortly which allows access to replace these screws.
 
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BrShootr

Ready to race!
For those who replaced speakers, I've seen 2 options mentioned: 1. cut the OEM speaker and bolt the new one to the OEM spacer; 2. Drill out the rivets and screw in a new spacer.

My questions are:
How hard is it to cut the speakers?
What size screw did you use to mount the new spacer?
Any alternative to the 2 methods I've mentioned?

Thanks for the write up and the replies!
 

dav1d

Ready to race!
I know the front door speakers need spacers when swapping for aftermarkets but how about the rear panel speakers? Are spacers needed there too?
 
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