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DIY: TSI Water Pump Replacement

zrickety

The Fixer
Don't forget the torque wrench!
 

kern417

Go Kart Champion
I probably spent about 12 hours working on it the first time, but could do the job in about 6 if I had to. One thing that I noticed is that you have to have a socket driver that has an adjustable head. Probably the biggest issue was getting to the rear bolts on the throttle body, you can go from underneath the car, but the angles are too weird to get the screws backed out.

Another thing I ran into is the pipes, be sure that you get them all the way back on, I had the lower one back on(I thought) and the pipe popped off after a few miles. I had to use a ton of force to get the lower one to seat correctly.

yep same thing happened to me. there should be a pretty hard click once you get it all the way on. with the manifold off it was cake, but when i tried it again with the manifold still on it was hell reaching the bolts with an torx key
 

interweb42

Passed Driver's Ed
20,000 miles and mine started leaking. (2012 MK6) :( car is a salvage title so no warranty. Just replaced it myself. Was a big job, probably took about 12 hours, spread out over 2 days. could probably do it in half the time now, I wasted a lot of time trying to do it without pulling the intake manifold

I was able to get the pump removed without taking off the intake manifold however, it was not lining up in place (looked like the pump was pressing up against the bottom of the fuel rail/ wiring for fuel injectors) ended up removing the manifold to get it reinstalled.

I find it hard to believe this is possible to do without removing the mani. I would recommend anyone trying this for the first time to to just bite the bullet and remove the manifold, gives you so much more room to work with.

I also ordered the wrong part first, beware there are two pumps depending on engine type
PUMP PART #06J121026BG = CBFA Engine
PUMP PART #06H121026DD = CCTA Engine

This video helped me a lot just seeing how everything disconnected/ how fuel injectors removed from fuel rail. They suck to pull out!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ugh9vPz2Zd8

The worst parts of this job are as follows:
  • the back two screws on the throttle body, extensions are your friend.
  • The throttle body pipe was pain to get off, gotta jam a screwdriver around the whole pipe to break the seal then squeeze the pipe itself and pull.
  • All the fuel injectors on my car came off with the mani, these suck to pull out, not sure if there is a trick, just kinda used a screwdriver to help pry them out. (I didn't replace any seals, just lubed them up and slapped them back on the car, worked fine.)

I would also recommend blowing some compressed air around the mani before dissembling to keep dust/dirt from falling into the valves.

Thank you all so much for the information, without you guys I don't think I would have attempted this job.
 

kern417

Go Kart Champion
i agree it's a lot easier to remove the manifold. i've done it both ways and working blind is difficult. i'm sure it would be easier with a lift but i don't have one.
 

nvturbo

Go Kart Champion
i agree it's a lot easier to remove the manifold. i've done it both ways and working blind is difficult. i'm sure it would be easier with a lift but i don't have one.

I don't think having a lift would be helpful when it comes to replacing the water pump. All the work is from on top with the exception of unplugging the throttle pipe sensor.
 

kern417

Go Kart Champion
I don't think having a lift would be helpful when it comes to replacing the water pump. All the work is from on top with the exception of unplugging the throttle pipe sensor.

if you're doing it without the manifold that would be the best way to see what you're doing. i can even access my map sensor from the top, but it was a headahce trying to line up a torx bit with the bolts when i couldn't see anything between the runners.
 

Steve Lai

New member
Great write up. Hv finished my water pump w the manifold opened. Done the valve carbon clean up and injector cleansing in one go. It took me 2 days but the car is running in good shape. The water pump for Hong Kong GTI6 model is a bit different from US but your valuable info helps a lot.

Thx again.
 

Steve Lai

New member
The pump has been replaced for several months. A mild seepage (not leakage) was noticed recently with coolant spotted underneath and behind the thermostat housing.

Have reinstalled the pump and also removed/cleaned up the contact sealant between the housing and engine block surface but seepage still detected.

Is it necessary to apply sealant on the surface? What type of sealant should be used? Any thoughts?
 

raphaelpmc

New member
Great topic, I did my self this replacement, is not so hard but a Lon time work, be carefully when necessary, because this work accepts no mistakes or will leak again. Take care with the bolts on, take care with the belts return, take care with the water/oil coolant junction, and replace when possible all the o rings !
 

GuiltySpark

Passed Driver's Ed
So my 2012 GTI had the recall done at a dealer in 2016. Last week it began overheating and after taking it back to the dealer (they were only able to diagnose it for a little bit, I took it on saturday and they close at 3PM) they said its likely a stuck closed/failed thermostat as the inlet is hot and the outlet is cold.

Oddly, i thought thermostats were always supposed to fail open.. anyway...

So they saw that its already the latest water pump so that its not covered under the recall/warranty, even if it needs to be replaced (looks like the thermostat is built in?). Its NOT leaking.

Does this sound correct or should I be fighting this?
 

GuiltySpark

Passed Driver's Ed
Well they submitted a request to VW Good Will to see if they'll cover the already replaced water pump as they don't replace just the thermostat. Not going to get the car back today :-/

I sure hope its covered.
 

ChrisB1

Go Kart Champion
I'm about to do this water pump thing myself. I am not under the service campaign and the stealership quoted me "about $900" to do it over the phone. Good job since it went at 60,200 miles...

EDIT: Well, I finally did this and I liked it so much, I did it twice.

Lessons learned: get at least ONE injector seal kit AND replace the union between the water pump and the oil cooler. One of my injectors that pulled with the manifold broke a claw. I didn't want to find out how well the car would run long-term with that piece compromised, although it did run fine, prior to discovering another leak...

My main problem came from the union. Water poured out like never before at the reused union. My OG unit was sketch looking but I figured it would work, and I was WRONG. I put a deposit down for a Powerbuilt Loaner Pressure Tester Adapter at Autozone just to make sure no other leaks were present prior to replacing the union. When I was done, it also doubled to pressure fill the cooling system.

The good news is that water pump whine is now gone, along with the leaks....
 
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Wagenmightbreak

New member
Reviving this thread but how the hell did you get the new belt on without loosening the tensioner? Ive been at it for hours trying to get that new belt on and it WILL NOT fit between that crease on the bottom crank.

Sent from my HTC 10 evo using Tapatalk
 
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