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Rotor/pad recommendations?
- Thread starter G3Rizon
- Start date
aj_law
Go Kart Champion
Bumping this discussion.
Looking at new pads and possibly new rotors. Seems like most recommend Centric rotors and Stop Tech pads.
Not crazy about the fact that the Stop Techs don't come with the sensor so I would have to deal with the proverbial idiot light on the dash. For just a little more cash, the EBC reds seem to have solid reviews and they DO come with the sensor. Anyone here have experience with the EBCs? Worth the $20 to $30 bucks more?
As to the rotors (and this is coming from someone that handles just basic maintenance on their vehicles), WTF is there such a price disparity for rotors on this car? I mean, I get the differences between standard, drilled, slotted, high performance, F1 products,etc., but how can one be $20 or $25 bucks and another seemingly similar product be $110? What sort of wizardry or magic powers exist in the more expensive ones that cause you to stop quicker thus justifying the higher cost?
Is it all just a smokescreen?
Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Looking at new pads and possibly new rotors. Seems like most recommend Centric rotors and Stop Tech pads.
Not crazy about the fact that the Stop Techs don't come with the sensor so I would have to deal with the proverbial idiot light on the dash. For just a little more cash, the EBC reds seem to have solid reviews and they DO come with the sensor. Anyone here have experience with the EBCs? Worth the $20 to $30 bucks more?
As to the rotors (and this is coming from someone that handles just basic maintenance on their vehicles), WTF is there such a price disparity for rotors on this car? I mean, I get the differences between standard, drilled, slotted, high performance, F1 products,etc., but how can one be $20 or $25 bucks and another seemingly similar product be $110? What sort of wizardry or magic powers exist in the more expensive ones that cause you to stop quicker thus justifying the higher cost?
Is it all just a smokescreen?
Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Tony48
Go Kart Champion
Defeating the sensor takes no more than 5mins:
Electronic sensors are part of the front pads, well a single pad actually. If you want to retain that function you must buy pads that have the electronic pigtail hanging out of one pad. It is not transferable from old to new pads. If you don't care about that functionality you can just cut the pigtail off the old brake pad, twist the 2 wires together, tape it up, and plug it back in. This will keep the light from coming on the dash.
Rear brakes have no electronic sensor.
aj_law
Go Kart Champion
I hear ya, Tony and I saw your earlier post. Ideally though, if a sensor exists, I'd rather take advantage of it than bypass it. Just how my mind works...weird, I know.
Tony48
Go Kart Champion
If it eases your mind at all, the sensor is extremely basic. Just a connected wire loop (closed circuit condition / no dummy light) that gets broken apart when the friction material wears down far enough (open circuit condition / dummy light illuminates). It's nothing fancy and won't necessarily help you if you are experiencing uneven pad wear between inside/outside pads.
Basically what I'm saying is even with the sensor functioning you still need to inspect your brake pads visually.
In regards to brake pad choice I have EBC red's, albeit in Porsche Boxster Brembo calipers. They dust significantly more than OEM-style ceramic pads. I also have some front brake squeaking but this is likely more to do with my caliper setup than the pads. Probably not worth the dusting and potential noise issues unless you really think you need the extra performance. Take a look at AKEBONO EUR1319 - basically an alternative equivalent to OEM pads and can be had for $56 + shipping from RockAuto (for front pads). For what it's worth, most "performance" pads don't come with wear sensors for our application.
I can't tell you much about rotors other than the fact that drilled/slotted is purely for looks for our application. I don't know the benefits of cryo treated and other stuff...seems unimportant to me unless you're really pushing your braking system. I usually go for a blank rotor from a reputable brand.
For the most part all one piece rotors in their various variations start as blanks often Centric blanks and folks drill and/or slot them. The drilling and slotting don't really help you stop any faster. Mostly you are paying for a look. Drilled and slotted rotors on a daily driven car are mostly for looks.
Pad choice/material is where the wizardry is in terms of how much pedal pressure it takes to obtain a certain amount of friction. Keep in mind that ultimately, no matter how good your brakes are, tires selection will limit or improve your braking distances.
aj_law
Go Kart Champion
Bueller?
Also, input on these rotor/pad packages?
Rear
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YAZOJPS/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A1O3FVCQXGMIO5&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YAZQBNQ/ref=psdc_46244011_t1_B00YAZOJPS
Front
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YAZK5DI/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=A1COIXT69Y8KR&psc=1
Amazon claims that the 11.3in and 10.7in both fit rear of my 2012. True? How would I know which is best fit?
I feel like this should go in the stupid questions thread...
Tony48
Go Kart Champion
IMO If you don't know what fitment you need you should be purchasing from somewhere that specializes in these vehicles so they can set you straight. ECS Tuning, FCP Euro, eEuroParts, etc are all good euro-specific sites to order from.
In 2010 or 2011 (?) GTI's had a mid-year change for rear brakes. The older brakes use a 282mm rotor and can be identified by checking the caliper for thread-in (flare style) brake line connection. The newer brakes use a 272mm rotor and can be identified by a banjo-style brake line connection and "BOSCH" cast into the body. You need to purchase pads and rotors accordingly.
APRMK6GTi
Go Kart Champion
2012 is 272mm, I'll stay away from EBC Red Stuff, you're better off with going Stoptech Sport Pads. Here are my EBC Red Stuff for the rear, it happened on both sides. Only had 1 track day on it, the OEM had 4 track days and did not crumble like this. Upgraded to Stoptech Sport Pads and Stoptech Slotted Rotors.
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