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Help me build a Civic Type R competitor!

theclutch

Go Kart Newbie
Initially, I wrote the subject of the thread as "help me build a Civic Type R killer" but then realized that that may be too tall of an order.

First things first, I pinged Stratified on this but it appears that they are still dealing with their building move and haven't responded yet. Hope that they aren't "getting too big" as to lose the personal touch that we've enjoyed for a long while.

So hopefully, you folks will be able to help. My main goal is to have a great daily driver that goes on the track 4-6 days per year. I thought about getting the Civic Type-R but the lack of heated seats, no sunroof, only 4 seats and no "individual mode" for the drive settings pushed me away. So why spend new car money if it doesn't have what you need/want for 359 days out of the year? Maybe they'll add those for year 2019 or 2020.

So far, I have:
Stage 1 COBB Stratified
Neuspeed 28mm race rear sway bar
Hawk HP+ brakes

For Stage 2, I have a couple of questions:
  1. My understanding is that the cat back exhaust is primarily for “sound” and not performance. Is this true?
  2. If #1 is true, my intention then is to KEEP THE STOCK CATBACK EXHAUST for now until I determine which catback sound I want. I intend to purchase an intake and the downpipe. From Stratified's site, they have 3 selections for downpipe. The CTS Turbo catted downpipe is $489 with an install kit. The COBB catted down pipe is $595. And another COBB catted downpipe with resonator for $850. What is the difference among these?
  3. Wouldn’t the COBB with the resonator make a total of 2 resonators with a stock catback exhaust?
  4. Will going with either COBB or CTS downpipe prevent me from going with a Borla or Magnaflow or other catback exhaust down the road? i.e. - will I have fitment issues?
  5. Will any of these downpipes be enough to give me crackles and pops?
  6. From an intake perspective, I am thinking the COBB since it’s a “closed” system and will not be sucking hot air from the engine like the CTS will. Your thoughts?
  7. Since I’m going with a catted downpipe, does anyone know if it will pass the Massachusetts emissions test or will I need to swap back to the original come test time? Or will I need an O2 “spacer”?

Without breaking the bank, I figure I'd add one of these:
Bilstein PSS10 adjustable coil overs
Bilstein PSS adjustable height only coil overs
Koni adjustables

Thanks in advance for your help!
 

Boscogn

Go Kart Champion
Intake wont do much neither would cat back exhaust. I'd do stage 2 with downpipe and good intercooler. Then I'd go k04 with tune.

Are you Mt or dsg? You will need new clutch prolly if Mt.

Suspension bits will me nice on track but in straight lines mounts and tires would be best.

Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk
 

theclutch

Go Kart Newbie
Intake wont do much neither would cat back exhaust. I'd do stage 2 with downpipe and good intercooler. Then I'd go k04 with tune.

Are you Mt or dsg? You will need new clutch prolly if Mt.

Suspension bits will me nice on track but in straight lines mounts and tires would be best.

Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk

Yeah, I'm doing intake + downpipe... Questions is, the downpipes all look the same. Is CTS Turbo vs COBB? Any thoughts? There's a huge price difference between the two for what appears to be a fancy 3" tube with a cat.
 

theclutch

Go Kart Newbie
Intake wont do much neither would cat back exhaust. I'd do stage 2 with downpipe and good intercooler. Then I'd go k04 with tune.

Are you Mt or dsg? You will need new clutch prolly if Mt.

Suspension bits will me nice on track but in straight lines mounts and tires would be best.

Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk

I'm DSG... so the DSG clutch is tougher than the MT?
 

DASVDUB

Drag Racing Champion
Yeah, I'm doing intake + downpipe... Questions is, the downpipes all look the same. Is CTS Turbo vs COBB? Any thoughts? There's a huge price difference between the two for what appears to be a fancy 3" tube with a cat.



Don’t buy CTS. All garbage products. Ask Jay lol. Catless if you don’t have emissions or mind the smell, I honestly don’t notice the smell anymore after 4 years of it haha.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

zef

Drag Racing Champion
  1. My understanding is that the cat back exhaust is primarily for “sound” and not performance. Is this true?


  1. Yep, 100% true. You might pick up a couple ponies with a catback but that's about it.

    [*]If #1 is true, my intention then is to KEEP THE STOCK CATBACK EXHAUST for now until I determine which catback sound I want. I intend to purchase an intake and the downpipe. From Stratified's site, they have 3 selections for downpipe. The CTS Turbo catted downpipe is $489 with an install kit. The COBB catted down pipe is $595. And another COBB catted downpipe with resonator for $850. What is the difference among these?

    I believe both use 304 stainless, so it really comes down to preference and cost. Or you know, you can just buy mine /wink

    [*]Wouldn’t the COBB with the resonator make a total of 2 resonators with a stock catback exhaust?

    Yes

    [*]Will going with either COBB or CTS downpipe prevent me from going with a Borla or Magnaflow or other catback exhaust down the road? i.e. - will I have fitment issues?

    No.

    [*]Will any of these downpipes be enough to give me crackles and pops?

    Tunes make the biggest difference in that regard, but typically non-resonated and/or catless downpipes/exhausts are the ones that crackle/pop.

    [*]From an intake perspective, I am thinking the COBB since it’s a “closed” system and will not be sucking hot air from the engine like the CTS will. Your thoughts?

    I've never been a fan of Cobb's intake as it requires Cobb's software to properly run due to the special MAF that's required. APR/VWR and even IE all make good intakes with proper heat shielding.

    [*]Since I’m going with a catted downpipe, does anyone know if it will pass the Massachusetts emissions test or will I need to swap back to the original come test time? Or will I need an O2 “spacer”?

MA is a little tricky because you can't "force" readiness. You'll need your tuner to enable the readiness monitor for the rear O2 and run O2 spacers. That's how I got my car to pass recently. If yours is a CBFA you'll need a spacer on the center as well as rear o2.
 

hungti75

Passed Driver's Ed
In my humble opinion, stage 2 won't really get you close to Civic Type R performance, so, as mentioned above, if you have the funds, go K04.
Get a good ECU/DSG tune.
 

GhostGTI1

Banned
My GTI with suspension mods, K04, and a tune walks new Type R's and SI's like nothing. Haven't raced one on kill yet but easily beat them by 2-3 cars on pump 93. Last one was a 18' SI with some mods. Dude was hurt haha
 

theclutch

Go Kart Newbie
If you're looking to build a Type R killer/competitor why go stage 2 and not K04?

I simply don't know much about it aside from it being a bigger turbo. I also want to make sure I pass emissions here in MA as this is my yearly daily driver. Don't want to drive the fancy cars in the winter.

Are there different brands of turbos to pick from?
 
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