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Old 04-21-2018, 01:39 PM   #29
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Thank you.
Its important to use a proper kit. The drill bits in the kit spin left (unscrew), they come with guides for the bits so it centers your drill bit and then the special extractor the digs into the hole you drill and bites.
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Old 04-22-2018, 11:09 AM   #30
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You normally get them out with an easy out screw extractor after soaking it for a while with something like PB Blaster solvent. That way you can preserve the threads.
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Its important to use a proper kit. The drill bits in the kit spin left (unscrew), they come with guides for the bits so it centers your drill bit and then the special extractor the digs into the hole you drill and bites.
Still doing my research on this in order to evaluate options. This is the very top bolt that's hard to reach, so do you think it's possible to do take out this stud without taking out the turbo? The shop insists they have to take it out, but I suppose they want to go with what's easier and less time consuming for them.
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Old 04-22-2018, 11:47 AM   #31
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Still doing my research on this in order to evaluate options. This is the very top bolt that's hard to reach, so do you think it's possible to do take out this stud without taking out the turbo? The shop insists they have to take it out, but I suppose they want to go with what's easier and less time consuming for them.
I will ask my mechanic friend and get back to you later today. This guy has a lot of time working on these motors.
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Old 04-22-2018, 12:19 PM   #32
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Still doing my research on this in order to evaluate options. This is the very top bolt that's hard to reach, so do you think it's possible to do take out this stud without taking out the turbo? The shop insists they have to take it out, but I suppose they want to go with what's easier and less time consuming for them.
Well my advice was crap. I asked my friend who was a full time VAG mechanic. Here is what he said.....

"Chances are an easy out won't do it. At least in the car. The exhaust studs are a pain when they break. Best way is to yeah remove the turbo and work with it on the bench."

His response is consistent with what your mechanic is saying.
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Old 04-22-2018, 12:46 PM   #33
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Is there any thread left? Post a picture.
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Old 04-22-2018, 01:30 PM   #34
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Well my advice was crap. I asked my friend who was a full time VAG mechanic. Here is what he said.....

"Chances are an easy out won't do it. At least in the car. The exhaust studs are a pain when they break. Best way is to yeah remove the turbo and work with it on the bench."

His response is consistent with what your mechanic is saying.
Thank you very much. This is the kind of information I need to make an informed decision on how to move forward.

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Old 04-22-2018, 01:32 PM   #35
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Is there any thread left? Post a picture.
I don't have the means to take a photo, but I can get clarification from the shop. From what they said, they would need to "tap" it out. They didn't say anything about the thread being stripped.

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Old 04-23-2018, 02:42 PM   #36
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I don't have the means to take a photo, but I can get clarification from the shop. From what they said, they would need to "tap" it out. They didn't say anything about the thread being stripped.

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I'm confused. Is the down pipe stuck on due to the one nut/stud? If so, you wont be able to pull the turbo. You need to apply a bunch of kroil and let it sit, and apply again and man handle it. Is the downpipe off and the stud stuck? If the stud isn't stripped then why do you need to take it out? If you're trying to replace the studs just because then throw on 2 nuts and back out the first nut that went on. Again, use a bunch of kroil or alike.
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Old 04-23-2018, 02:51 PM   #37
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I'm confused. Is the down pipe stuck on due to the one nut/stud? If so, you wont be able to pull the turbo. You need to apply a bunch of kroil and let it sit, and apply again and man handle it. Is the downpipe off and the stud stuck? If the stud isn't stripped then why do you need to take it out? If you're trying to replace the studs just because then throw on 2 nuts and back out the first nut that went on. Again, use a bunch of kroil or alike.
The downpipe is currently only screwed on by the other three bolts at the moment; the fourth one is the top hard to reach one that they could not screw back on because it got stuck as they were trying to take off my stock one to install my current one. So I just left it as is in order to get my car back. But as of right now, the top one has the stud stuck in the turbo so it is not screwed on at all. I hope this makes sense.

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Old 04-23-2018, 07:03 PM   #38
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The downpipe is currently only screwed on by the other three bolts at the moment; the fourth one is the top hard to reach one that they could not screw back on because it got stuck as they were trying to take off my stock one to install my current one. So I just left it as is in order to get my car back. But as of right now, the top one has the stud stuck in the turbo so it is not screwed on at all. I hope this makes sense.

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Is anyone else still a bit confused as to what this stud situation is lol?
There are no bolts from the factory. There's 4 threaded studs screwed into the turbo exhaust housing and 4 nuts that screw onto those to hold the downpipe on. So it sounds like they couldn't get the 4th nut to thread on the stud again which means it sounds like it's intact still? If so couldn't you just remove the downpipe again and that would give you enough room to just use a stud puller to remove the stud and use a new stud and new nut? You can easily reach all 4 studs with the downpipe off to use a stud puller on a 3/8 wrench.
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Old 04-23-2018, 07:14 PM   #39
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Is anyone else still a bit confused as to what this stud situation is lol?
There are no bolts from the factory. There's 4 threaded studs screwed into the turbo exhaust housing and 4 nuts that screw onto those to hold the downpipe on. So it sounds like they couldn't get the 4th nut to thread on the stud again which means it sounds like it's intact still? If so couldn't you just remove the downpipe again and that would give you enough room to just use a stud puller to remove the stud and use a new stud and new nut? You can easily reach all 4 studs with the downpipe off to use a stud puller on a 3/8 wrench.
Haha you actually get it for the most part, so you aren't as confused as you think. I don't know if I'm using the wrong terminology, so my bad for making it confusing. I'm just relaying it the way I understand it as I'm not much of a gear head.

The stud (which I've been referring to as bolt incorrectly?) that gets screwed into the turbo is stuck, and from my understanding, half of it broke off. So it is no longer intact. Thus, they cannot screw the nut back on to hold the downpipe. According to the shop, they need to take out the turbo in order to tap out that stud and replace it.

I hope that clarifies it.

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Old 04-26-2018, 04:24 PM   #40
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Alright, just a quick update: I got further clarification from the shop that the thread is in fact stripped, so that's why they said they would need to drill and tap it out in order to rethread it. I feel like an idiot for misunderstanding it the way I did. In any case, they're confident it's an easy fix, but they will be taking out the turbo in order to do this.

So, I'm still mulling over my options between just getting this fixed for a fraction of the cost of getting a k04, or spend an additional 2K to get k04. I don't see myself selling this car anytime soon as I love my car, and i've wanted a k04 since I bought it.

I'm really tempted to go with k04 since they'll already be taking out the turbo, but I'm just hesitant on spending more on supporting mods, specifically a new intercooler, which i've read is a must. I think i've gotten over any concerns about smog implications from what people are saying, other than the fact I have to get a modified CCTA DP.

So anyone running a stock intercooler on their k04?
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Old 04-26-2018, 05:07 PM   #41
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Alright, just a quick update: I got further clarification from the shop that the thread is in fact stripped, so that's why they said they would need to drill and tap it out in order to rethread it. I feel like an idiot for misunderstanding it the way I did. In any case, they're confident it's an easy fix, but they will be taking out the turbo in order to do this.

So, I'm still mulling over my options between just getting this fixed for a fraction of the cost of getting a k04, or spend an additional 2K to get k04. I don't see myself selling this car anytime soon as I love my car, and i've wanted a k04 since I bought it.

I'm really tempted to go with k04 since they'll already be taking out the turbo, but I'm just hesitant on spending more on supporting mods, specifically a new intercooler, which i've read is a must. I think i've gotten over any concerns about smog implications from what people are saying, other than the fact I have to get a modified CCTA DP.

So anyone running a stock intercooler on their k04?
You can run stock intercooler on K04, but it gets hot in Sac, and you will heatsoak and negate the power bump. I'll say try to pick up a good condition used K04 instead of getting a brand new one. In any case, for smog, u can borrow my modified CCTA dp.
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Old 04-26-2018, 09:13 PM   #42
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You can run stock intercooler on K04, but it gets hot in Sac, and you will heatsoak and negate the power bump. I'll say try to pick up a good condition used K04 instead of getting a brand new one. In any case, for smog, u can borrow my modified CCTA dp.
x2 and a stock intercooler is also a choke point so you won't get the air flow you need on the top end.

Also even with a larger intercooler it is hard to lower IAT in hot weather when you are looking to run the car hard. Adding water meth to that larger intercooler works incredibly well for those of us in very hot climates.
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