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Old 01-16-2018, 01:48 PM   #1
hmk6
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Swaybar End links

Hey guys,
Recently I upgraded my suspension to a set of KW V3, I want also to upgrade my front/back swaybar end links so I would be able to calibrate the swaybar preload.
(the car is lowered according to the recommendation of KW).

which brand would you recommend?

O34? VWR? Spolan? ECS? WhiteLine? SuperPro?

Thanks!
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Old 01-16-2018, 01:51 PM   #2
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034 are some of the best endlinks I've seen on the market. I'd stay clear of whiteline, they are generally cheaper but many including myself had issues with them making excessive noise. They perform just fine, but the clunking does get annoying.
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Old 01-16-2018, 06:11 PM   #3
drval85
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Lots of clunks from my Whitelines.
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Old 01-16-2018, 06:39 PM   #4
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I often wondered what was actually happening when it clunks

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Old 01-16-2018, 10:17 PM   #5
TimS
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I often wondered what was actually happening when it clunks

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In my experience, it's been the lock nuts working loose.

I had a set of Spulens that kept coming loose and clunking like mad. Whitelines are doing ok so far. I guess if these crap out, I'll try the 034s.
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Old 01-18-2018, 12:33 PM   #6
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Swaybar End links

Ok so let's delve into why you're more likely having issues with Whiteline, because I had the same issue happen, got a warranty claim, and realized that they've addressed some of these issues. The main issue exists with aftermarket sway bars having too large of screw holes; it's kind of silly and seems bizarre that they would need to go over M10 because that's not really needed if the hardware is 12.9 Grade alloy. I also believe that's an upgrade in general over the factory spec screw diameter (M8).

So, the first versions of Whiteline's end-links had Nyloc lock-nuts. Those are wrong first and foremost. They have since switched to Class 10, distorted thread (squeezed style thread in specific) flanged lock-nuts.

I had issues with the Nyloc nuts backing off quite frequently, because they were the wrong hardware, even when properly torqued. This backing-off allowed the sway bar's larger 1/2" hole to eat away at my threads. So I was able to start a valid warranty claim.

I had also previously installed some proper lock-nut samples we had received at work, and had good results with those, torqued properly (OEM spec + a few lb-ft) of course. They do not make noise or seem to loosen after this, so always make sure you're being methodical with this type of stuff.

I'm also going to add an insert (bushing) into my swap bar when I install the replacement end-links to eliminate the immense slop and ensure this doesn't happen again.

With the squeezed type of lock-nut it's important to use a thread torquing lubricant as well if your ball joints or hardware are black-oxide coated (Whiteline) as we've had some issues with incompatibility between zinc-plated nuts and black oxide screws with thread galling (there's more at hand there as well, not worth going deep here).

In my opinion, the Whiteline end-links are the best options for a daily driven car, since their recent hardware update. The tighter tolerance spherical rod-ends or bearings on Nuespeed or 034 Motorsport products require constant greasing and cleaning for longevity, and dealing with greasing an aftermarket sway bar is annoying enough, now talk about more time. Additionally, there does not exist a proper protection component for rod-ends that is practical to install and service, and that lasts more importantly.


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Last edited by QuitersLOSE14; 01-19-2018 at 12:16 AM.
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Old 01-19-2018, 12:52 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QuitersLOSE14 View Post
Ok so let's delve into why you're more likely having issues with Whiteline, because I had the same issue happen, got a warranty claim, and realized that they've addressed some of these issues. The main issue exists with aftermarket sway bars having too large of screw holes; it's kind of silly and seems bizarre that they would need to go over M10 because that's not really needed if the hardware is 12.9 Grade alloy. I also believe that's an upgrade in general over the factory spec screw diameter (M8).

So, the first versions of Whiteline's end-links had Nyloc lock-nuts. Those are wrong first and foremost. They have since switched to Class 10, distorted thread (squeezed style thread in specific) flanged lock-nuts.

I had issues with the Nyloc nuts backing off quite frequently, because they were the wrong hardware, even when properly torqued. This backing-off allowed the sway bar's larger 1/2" hole to eat away at my threads. So I was able to start a valid warranty claim.

I had also previously installed some proper lock-nut samples we had received at work, and had good results with those, torqued properly (OEM spec + a few lb-ft) of course. They do not make noise or seem to loosen after this, so always make sure you're being methodical with this type of stuff.

I'm also going to add an insert (bushing) into my swap bar when I install the replacement end-links to eliminate the immense slop and ensure this doesn't happen again.

With the squeezed type of lock-nut it's important to use a thread torquing lubricant as well if your ball joints or hardware are black-oxide coated (Whiteline) as we've had some issues with incompatibility between zinc-plated nuts and black oxide screws with thread galling (there's more at hand there as well, not worth going deep here).

In my opinion, the Whiteline end-links are the best options for a daily driven car, since their recent hardware update. The tighter tolerance spherical rod-ends or bearings on Nuespeed or 034 Motorsport products require constant greasing and cleaning for longevity, and dealing with greasing an aftermarket sway bar is annoying enough, now talk about more time. Additionally, there does not exist a proper protection component for rod-ends that is practical to install and service, and that lasts more importantly.


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Thanks for the good info and lessons learned regarding hardware. I see you've recommended the Whiteline endlinks for daily driven cars because of their ball joints in lieu of spherical bearings. What about the ECS endlinks or Superpro endlinks, assuming you will source some quality hardware? They are both of similar design to the Whiteline endlinks but at a slightly more attractive price point. Anyone have experience with them? Both front and rear sets are available from each company.
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Old 01-20-2018, 03:36 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Tony48 View Post
Thanks for the good info and lessons learned regarding hardware. I see you've recommended the Whiteline endlinks for daily driven cars because of their ball joints in lieu of spherical bearings. What about the ECS endlinks or Superpro endlinks, assuming you will source some quality hardware? They are both of similar design to the Whiteline endlinks but at a slightly more attractive price point. Anyone have experience with them? Both front and rear sets are available from each company.
Check amazon. I paid $99 for my whitelines.
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Old 01-19-2018, 02:08 PM   #9
riceburner
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So far so good on super proud front links, no noise and they haven't bent. Good for price but I've only got a little over 10k on em so far
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Old 01-20-2018, 06:38 PM   #10
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I am putting the 034 Motorsports links along with a number of other 034 parts on my MKV project.

I would agree that exposed spherical bearings do require care. However in the case of these links they do come with boots for the spherical bearings much like the boot on one of our drive axles so they are well protected and probably will require far less maint because of the covers. Having said that I would still only recommend these for track use or folks like me that only drive in dry weather.
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Old 01-24-2018, 05:30 AM   #11
Danz5k1
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I recommend Powergrid Inc endlinks.

Note: check the clearance between the front LCA and the swaybar arm when using a coilover. Bilstein PSS/PSS10 needs to use 1.5cm shorter front endlink.
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Old 05-09-2018, 10:41 PM   #12
QuitersLOSE14
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Swaybar End links

Quote:
Originally Posted by Danz5k1 View Post
I recommend Powergrid Inc endlinks.

Note: check the clearance between the front LCA and the swaybar arm when using a coilover. Bilstein PSS/PSS10 needs to use 1.5cm shorter front endlink.


Those don't seem horrible, not sure what hardware they use. Those ball joints are similar to the type used on factory C6 Corvettes.

You have any specific pics? I cant find them.
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Old 05-21-2018, 04:08 AM   #13
Danz5k1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QuitersLOSE14 View Post
Those don't seem horrible, not sure what hardware they use. Those ball joints are similar to the type used on factory C6 Corvettes.

You have any specific pics? I cant find them.
Sorry for the late reply. I haven't been active in this forum for a very long time.

The balljoint is made by THK - and if the ones in Corvette looks similar then most likely because it is the same THK balljoint. Nissan Z and BMW M3 uses the same THK balljoint if I recall. For whatever reason, Powergrid Inc is able to source the THK balljoint specifically for endlink application used as OEM parts. THK do not sell it to public. Well, at least they don't many years ago.

I don't have specific pics at the moment, but I used to post a lot about it years ago in this forum. Not sure if the pics still exists though.

I use both front and rear endlinks by Powergrid and so does many of my friends who owns Golf MK6 for many2 years now. Not one ever failed and still operates like when is new.

I'll see if I can find some of the old pictures.
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Old 05-10-2018, 06:55 AM   #14
TimS
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I'm running Whiteline front and Neuspeed rear endlinks. Both are working silently, and the exposed bearings on the Neuspeeds still look new after 50k miles.

I probably should have gotten adjustable rears, but I'm not losing any sleep over it.
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