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Old 05-08-2018, 09:22 PM   #1
markus037
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may have figured out the high speed shimmy

so i bought some new wheels and tires from tirerack and installed them last week at work. i bought new wheels and tires since my stockers were bent and 2 tires were nearing replacement anyway. i am also trying to eliminate e a shimmy at around 80mph so i made sure the hub faces were cleaned of any debris.

i put the wheel on and as i started to tighten them down with my impact gun, i noticed some of the bolts were not going in very easy. time to bust out the tap and clean up the threads. i had one hell of a time on some. i guess over the years some rust and whatnot will clog the threads up and not allow the bolt to properly seat the lug bolt which would cause the wheel to not sit flush on the hub surface.

when i put the car on the ground for the final torque, some of the bolts werent even tight even after "snugging" them with the impact gun. i torqued all of them to 88.5 lb ft and then went over them just to make sure they were all torqued to spec. after all of this it was time for a test drive. got up to 70 mph and cannot feel anything. nada. no shimmy unless the road surface was kinda rough. even then you could feel something but nothing like how it was before. i think i may need some shocks in the future but thats about it. a week later and its still feeling good. before the new wheels, my passenger seat and armrest would vibrate like hell. now i can feel whatever is resonating down the road (if makes any sense)

sorry for the long read, but if you are having a shimmy issue, take the time to chase the threads on your hubs. you will be surprised how bad they are. the bolts should screw in easily by hand. size is 14 x 1.5mm
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Old 05-09-2018, 08:21 AM   #2
ahard48
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Good to know because I do have a slight shimmy as I accelerate doing 80.
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Old 05-09-2018, 08:50 AM   #3
Jaber
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markus037 View Post
so i bought some new wheels and tires from tirerack and installed them last week at work. i bought new wheels and tires since my stockers were bent and 2 tires were nearing replacement anyway. i am also trying to eliminate e a shimmy at around 80mph so i made sure the hub faces were cleaned of any debris.

i put the wheel on and as i started to tighten them down with my impact gun, i noticed some of the bolts were not going in very easy. time to bust out the tap and clean up the threads. i had one hell of a time on some. i guess over the years some rust and whatnot will clog the threads up and not allow the bolt to properly seat the lug bolt which would cause the wheel to not sit flush on the hub surface.

when i put the car on the ground for the final torque, some of the bolts werent even tight even after "snugging" them with the impact gun. i torqued all of them to 88.5 lb ft and then went over them just to make sure they were all torqued to spec. after all of this it was time for a test drive. got up to 70 mph and cannot feel anything. nada. no shimmy unless the road surface was kinda rough. even then you could feel something but nothing like how it was before. i think i may need some shocks in the future but thats about it. a week later and its still feeling good. before the new wheels, my passenger seat and armrest would vibrate like hell. now i can feel whatever is resonating down the road (if makes any sense)

sorry for the long read, but if you are having a shimmy issue, take the time to chase the threads on your hubs. you will be surprised how bad they are. the bolts should screw in easily by hand. size is 14 x 1.5mm
Well that might be your first mistake. Use impact to remove, then hand tighten and torque. Might take a bit longer, but you'll know if something doesn't feel right, where as the impact will just send it.
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Old 05-09-2018, 09:14 AM   #4
zrickety
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You got new wheels and tires when 2 were bent...that's probably why the shimmy is gone. I torque my lugs every time and still have a vibration issue.
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He's a real straight shooter, no monkey business, and the wheel swap at the Kohl's parking lot was quick and easy.
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Well i did use a breaker bar to snug up that nut instead of a torque wrench.
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my subframe has been out twice without replacing any bolts and I don't have subframe clunks and my world hasn't ended and my car hasn't blown up.
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Old 05-09-2018, 07:04 PM   #5
MLue1
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Lightbulb

I had shimmy but after replacing the front and rear rubber bushings on Both of my Front Lower Control Arms (LCA) the shimmy went away.

The bushings at the front of the LCA is cheap enough but the Rear Bushings pressed into the machine aluminum mount were over $200 each, ..ouch!

Luckily I found this Post and was able to source the Rubber Bushings by themselves and press them into the mounts my self without removing the mounts from the car. I think I paid ~$40 for all the bushings including shipping from AutohausAZ.
https://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=112049
Kudos to Short Bus, this is the second time I've used his post.


One observation of Note: Prior to bushing replacement I only had shimmy with stickier lower profile performance tires, when the temperature got colder the shimmy seemingly went away. Probably have more to do with interaction of worn bushings and camber/toe tho, .... similar to my BMW.

Last edited by MLue1; 05-11-2018 at 12:27 PM.
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Old 05-09-2018, 09:32 PM   #6
riceburner
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I'm almost done eliminating the shimmy. Took new tires, some new bushings, hubs and sway bar endlinks so far. Hoping new LCA bushing sup front is the final step

I also hand torque my new bolts on the ground doesn't seem to be a huge factor
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Old 05-09-2018, 09:51 PM   #7
markus037
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i removed my snow tires and those vibrated like hell. and yes, they arent bent and balanced fine.

but anyways, i figured id just put a post up. the car is actually enjoyable at highway speeds once again. i still want to do bushings and put a new set of shocks and springs when the time comes though
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Old 05-10-2018, 10:56 PM   #8
Dartregor
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For those of you with aftermarket wheels dont forget proper sized hub centric rings. Any play in the wheel bore or on the hub is not right. Should be snug.

I personally use my torque gun to run in the bolts. I throw the bolt into the socket spin in the first couple threads by hand and then very lightly pull the trigger not enough to engage the torque hammer but enough to get them spun in. Then i take my torque wrench and tighten them up to 90 ftlbs.


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Old 05-11-2018, 01:31 AM   #9
Carlosfandango
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Dartregor in the above post describes the correct method for wheel fitment, never tighten them down with an impact gun! Mk6 GTi Torque Spec is 120Nm = 88.50746ft-lb, so 90ft-lb would be ok but no higher!


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Old 05-11-2018, 02:09 AM   #10
Dartregor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlosfandango View Post
Dartregor in the above post describes the correct method for wheel fitment, never tighten them down with an impact gun! Mk6 GTi Torque Spec is 120Nm = 88.50746ft-lb, so 90ft-lb would be ok but no higher!


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Yeah i dont tighten with torque gun just run them in as i said. My torque wrench isnt digital so i just set to 90 cause 88.xx is unreasonable. But if you read up on bolt torque and how the metal reacts, even if you torque to 90ftlbs per say dead on for all five bolts down to even 5 decimal places. There can be up to 30% difference in clamping force. Just based on dirt and rust friction applied in the threads.


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