GOLFMK8
GOLFMK7
GOLFMK6
GOLFMKV
VW GTI MKVI Forum / VW Golf R Forum / VW Golf MKVI Forum / VW GTI Forum - Golfmk6.com



Go Back   VW GTI MKVI Forum / VW Golf R Forum / VW Golf MKVI Forum / VW GTI Forum - Golfmk6.com > Volkswagen GTI / Golf Topics > Member Car Journals


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 12-29-2017, 11:28 AM   #57
Tony48
FIA World Rally Car Champion
 
Tony48's Avatar
 
Drives: 2011 GTI
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Maryland
Posts: 522
Big maintenance update. I completed the timing system replacement.
New chains/guides/tensioners for the camshaft timing system and the balancer shaft timing system. Wasn't too bad since I did my research, had all of the correct tools, and followed the service manual. Took me about a day and a half taking my time and taking lots of breaks. Also upgraded my diverter valve to a Rev. D since the old one (Rev. C) was whistling under boost. The chains/guides/tensioners were actually in great shape but I'll rest easier knowing the old-style tensioner has been replaced. When I had everything back together I had a weird misfire issue that took me a long time to diagnose but I believe it was a stuck N205 valve or camshaft adjuster magnet, or some other issue in the camshaft timing system. Either way, it went away after I disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled the cam bridge, N205 valve, and camshaft adjustment magnet.

Here's some info that I think will help people in the future doing this job:
  1. You will need a short m12 triple square bit to get 2 of 3 bolts out of the the engine mount bracket (connects engine mount to the block). I bought a cheap set of triple square bits and cut them down then used a 1/2" wrench on the end.
  2. I bought the Schwaben timing service tool kit for the job. It was pricey but goes on sale for 25% off pretty often. Well worth it for the correct tools.
  3. The timing system will not all line up when you line up the crank pulley notch with the 4 o'clock mark on the lower timing cover. Apparently it can take up to 160 rotations of the crank pulley to get everything lined up perfectly (all camshaft and balancer shaft marks). Instead, I turned the system a dozen or so times by hand (spark plugs out) until I had the balancer shaft system lined up and the camshaft system off by a single link so I could verify I had not skipped a tooth.
  4. Check your cam bridge for screen blowout. Mine was fully intact so I left it as-is. If it's blown out then check the immediate area to see if there are any debris you can fish out.
  5. Taking off the turbo outlet elbow and N75 valve was a huge pain because of the limited access and vacuum lines in the way. It has to be done for access to the lower timing cover.
  6. To remove/reinstall one of the lower timing cover bolts you must get behind the accessory belt tensioner. Instead of removing the entire accessory belt tensioner assembly I removed the pulley only and held the spring loaded arm up when necessary.
  7. If you plan on replacing the balancer shaft tensioner you need a standard depth 27mm socket. A deep socket wouldn't have fit.
  8. When reinstalling the cam bridge it may not go on easily. Take a large flat head or pry bar and gently pry the cams apart every so slightly while wiggling the cam bridge into place.
References that helped me:

Here's the Flickr album with all of my pictures and below are a few embedded pictures for your enjoyment (click for full size).














__________________
| 2011 GTI, 6speed, 4dr | Build Thread| Timing Chain Replacement Tips | DIY RSR Clutch & RMS Replacement Tips|

Last edited by Tony48; 10-03-2018 at 10:13 AM.
Tony48 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2017, 01:03 PM   #58
BudgetPhoenix
FIA GT Newbie
 
Drives: 09 GLI
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 758
Did you notice any wear or stretch on the balance shaft chain and guides? Wondering if its worth it to do it and just do the timing chain. Also I think im having a hard time understanding what you meant when the timing marks dont line up at first. Once you set crank pulley at TDC shouldn't it be good?
BudgetPhoenix is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2017, 03:45 PM   #59
k03tfsi
Autocross Champion
 
Drives: Seat Leon 1.8tsi
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Greece
Posts: 103
great work.

I did the same work 2 years ago... and changed all valve springs with the firm springs of 2.0tfsi.
if there is any interest, I have some pictures of the work that I can post here.
__________________
Intake: VWracing / turbo: garret gt2871r / APR intercooler / ecu tuned bye APR stg3 / forge DV / Stoptech st40 / Audi R8 rims / 3" APR RSC TB /
Bilstein B8 sprint with 50mm APEX.
k03tfsi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2017, 04:03 PM   #60
Tony48
FIA World Rally Car Champion
 
Tony48's Avatar
 
Drives: 2011 GTI
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Maryland
Posts: 522
Quote:
Originally Posted by BudgetPhoenix View Post
Did you notice any wear or stretch on the balance shaft chain and guides? Wondering if its worth it to do it and just do the timing chain. Also I think im having a hard time understanding what you meant when the timing marks dont line up at first. Once you set crank pulley at TDC shouldn't it be good?
I didn't notice anything wrong with the balance shaft chain or guides but there's not really any way to check for stretch without measuring (which I did not do). I'll measure if you can find a spec. You should be fine skipping replacement. I did it while I was there because I figured "why not."

The timing marks I'm speaking of are the tick marks on the cams and crank that line up with the colored links on the timing chain. When you put the crank pulley at TDC it doesn't necessarily line up the timing marks.They only all line up (camshaft system & balance shaft system) every 160ish rotations of the engine or some crazy number. I read that it's because the camshaft chain takes twenty some rotations to line up while the balance shaft takes 7 rotations. So the only time the camshaft system and balance shaft system both line up is twenty something times 7, ie 160ish rotations.

Instead of rotating the crank around that many times I rotated it around a few times until it was close to being lined up. The balance shaft system marks were aligned and the camshaft system was a single link off. I figured the marks didn't need to line up as long as the crank/cams didn't move and I maintained the correct number of links between marks. I put the new chain back on in the same configuration (single link offset). If you look closely at my picture of the cams below you will see that the colored links of the chain are a single link ahead of the timing marks on the cams.

The service manual doesn't mention this so I was quite confused when I took the timing/cam covers off and the marks weren't lined up. It took some googling to figure out what was going on.

__________________
| 2011 GTI, 6speed, 4dr | Build Thread| Timing Chain Replacement Tips | DIY RSR Clutch & RMS Replacement Tips|

Last edited by Tony48; 12-30-2017 at 12:54 AM.
Tony48 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2018, 07:41 PM   #61
BudgetPhoenix
FIA GT Newbie
 
Drives: 09 GLI
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 758
Thanks for the reply, I think I found the info online you were talking about. This baffles me because I also have Elsawin on my PC and it doesnt mention this anywhere
BudgetPhoenix is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2018, 07:48 PM   #62
riceburner
Formula 5000 Driver
 
Drives: 2012 GTI DSG / K04
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 1,834
boy that looked like fun! lol! kudos to you for going through that in your driveway

ps where did you find the soundaktor in your car? under drivers side cowl? i couldn't find mine, which makes me wonder if the previous owner took it out already haha
riceburner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2018, 08:18 PM   #63
Tony48
FIA World Rally Car Champion
 
Tony48's Avatar
 
Drives: 2011 GTI
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Maryland
Posts: 522
Quote:
Originally Posted by BudgetPhoenix View Post
Thanks for the reply, I think I found the info online you were talking about. This baffles me because I also have Elsawin on my PC and it doesnt mention this anywhere
I had the same reaction. Was quite confused and took a night to research. Very surprised there was no mention in the service manual. It ended up working out.

Sidenote, How do you access Elsawin? The only access to service manuals I have is through the website I linked above and it is a huge pain to print those pages out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by riceburner View Post
boy that looked like fun! lol! kudos to you for going through that in your driveway

ps where did you find the soundaktor in your car? under drivers side cowl? i couldn't find mine, which makes me wonder if the previous owner took it out already haha
Soundaktor is under the cowl towards the center. The actual soundaktor hockey puck thing is on a bracket closer to the drivers side up above the wiper linkage. The connection and the control unit are towards the passenger side. I had initially simply unplugged the connector at the control unit because it didn't require removing the cowl.
__________________
| 2011 GTI, 6speed, 4dr | Build Thread| Timing Chain Replacement Tips | DIY RSR Clutch & RMS Replacement Tips|

Last edited by Tony48; 01-01-2018 at 09:31 PM.
Tony48 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2018, 05:38 PM   #64
Tony48
FIA World Rally Car Champion
 
Tony48's Avatar
 
Drives: 2011 GTI
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Maryland
Posts: 522
DIY RSR Clutch kit is ready to go! Hopefully I'll find the time to install this weekend, if not next.

I'll be ready to go Stage II after clutch break in. I've been strongly considering ditching APR and picking up a used Cobb Accessport to pair with a Stratified Tune...


__________________
| 2011 GTI, 6speed, 4dr | Build Thread| Timing Chain Replacement Tips | DIY RSR Clutch & RMS Replacement Tips|

Last edited by Tony48; 01-04-2018 at 10:09 AM.
Tony48 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-05-2018, 01:04 PM   #65
GoodTimesIndeed
Formula 5000 Champion
 
GoodTimesIndeed's Avatar
 
Drives: 2011 GTI 2Dr DSG
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Edgewood, MD
Posts: 2,045
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony48 View Post
I've been strongly considering ditching APR and picking up a used Cobb Accessport to pair with a Stratified Tune...
Following. Will be interesting to hear your thoughts if you do decide to go through with it.

I often wonder if doing this with the K04 would make a difference or not, especially since I believe APR V3.1 is rather aggressive already.
__________________
APR K04 / meth injection / custom intake / Eurojet turboback / Neuspeed FMIC / FMIC sprayer / FSB-RSB / Endlinks / 034 Mounts / HPA 75A / AWE TOP / BSH TBP / ECS Catch Can / Solo Werks / Centric rotors / StopTech pads / Tyrolsport / Powerflex Bushings & A.L.K. / Stern Brace / Eurosport Strut Brace & Rear XB / TCR-II System / Misc Interior & Exterior Mods / Build Thread / My flickr
GoodTimesIndeed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-05-2018, 01:32 PM   #66
Tony48
FIA World Rally Car Champion
 
Tony48's Avatar
 
Drives: 2011 GTI
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Maryland
Posts: 522
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodTimesIndeed View Post
Following. Will be interesting to hear your thoughts if you do decide to go through with it.

I often wonder if doing this with the K04 would make a difference or not, especially since I believe APR V3.1 is rather aggressive already.
Good to hear from you again!

It's a pretty steep upfront cost (Accessport + Stratified tune) but everyone seems to love the Stratified tunes, especially if coming from APR stage 2.

However, a few things I've read indicate that the APR K04 file is pretty stout. I don't know if there's a lot to gain by switching to Stratified from the APR K04 file.
__________________
| 2011 GTI, 6speed, 4dr | Build Thread| Timing Chain Replacement Tips | DIY RSR Clutch & RMS Replacement Tips|
Tony48 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-05-2018, 02:33 PM   #67
GoodTimesIndeed
Formula 5000 Champion
 
GoodTimesIndeed's Avatar
 
Drives: 2011 GTI 2Dr DSG
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Edgewood, MD
Posts: 2,045
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony48 View Post
Good to hear from you again!

It's a pretty steep upfront cost (Accessport + Stratified tune) but everyone seems to love the Stratified tunes, especially if coming from APR stage 2.

However, a few things I've read indicate that the APR K04 file is pretty stout. I don't know if there's a lot to gain by switching to Stratified from the APR K04 file.
HAHA, I've been around... creepn' on your build. Pretty legit garage setup with having access to that lift and all. Good stuff!

Yeah, I see the videos that others post with the stratified tunes and they do look quick. Looks like it would be worth it if you plan on going that route.
__________________
APR K04 / meth injection / custom intake / Eurojet turboback / Neuspeed FMIC / FMIC sprayer / FSB-RSB / Endlinks / 034 Mounts / HPA 75A / AWE TOP / BSH TBP / ECS Catch Can / Solo Werks / Centric rotors / StopTech pads / Tyrolsport / Powerflex Bushings & A.L.K. / Stern Brace / Eurosport Strut Brace & Rear XB / TCR-II System / Misc Interior & Exterior Mods / Build Thread / My flickr
GoodTimesIndeed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2018, 01:33 PM   #68
Tony48
FIA World Rally Car Champion
 
Tony48's Avatar
 
Drives: 2011 GTI
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Maryland
Posts: 522
DIY RSR Clutch is installed! Also replaced the rear main crankshaft seal with the iAbed Billet RMS. Parts lists, resources, and install tips below. Full Flickr album here, select embedded photos below. My Overall Impressions are at the bottom of the post. I will update them after clutch break in.
__________________________________________________

Clutch

Parts List:
Pressure Plate (07K 141 015 BX) - $365.26 + Free shipping (AudiUSAParts.com)

Clutch Disk (1878 005 146) - $110.99 + Free shipping (eEuroparts.com)
Throwout Bearing (0A5 141 671 F) - $108.35 + Free shipping (ECStuning.com)
Pressure plate bolts (N 903 207 01) - $0.99 x6 + Free shipping (ECStuning.com)
Throwout bearing bolts (N 908 470 02) - $1.00 x3 + Free shipping (ECStuning.com)

Dual Mass Flywheel (06J 105 266 H) - $75 + Free shipping (forum member, used for 50k on a stock Jetta)
Flywheel bolts (N 906 650 01) - $2.02 x8 + Free shipping (ECStuning.com)
Transmission Fluid (G 052 527 A2) - $41.11 x3 + Free shipping (ECStuning.com)
VW Clutch Alignment Tool (T10097) - $15.99 + Free shipping (ECStuning.com)


Total: $824.02


Resources:
Calkulin's "Build your own RSR clutch kit" Thread
T is for TURBO's Clutch Replacement Thread
GTI Mod Blog's Clutch Replacement Video


Install Tips:

Overall it wasn't a terrible job but I had a few issues. My goal was to remove the least amount of components possible. I didn't want to drop the subframe or remove the axles. I ended up unbolting both axles at the differential flanges, removing both flanges at the differential, and unbolting the ball joint at the control arm on the driver's side. This allowed enough clearance to move the driver's side axle over into the wheel well (you can see it in a few of the pictures). I also removed the bracket that holds the transmission mount to the transmission. Lastly, I unscrewed the 2 throttle body screws and disconnected a few electrical connections located between the radiator and the front of the engine. All of this gave me enough clearance to get the transmission out but it was quite a pain. I didn't really have any other issues besides things generally being difficult to maneuver. I did notice a ~1/2" hole that was open but looks like it should have some kind of plug on the bottom of the transmission. I plugged it from the outside with a simple, ribbed panel fastener from the hardware store. A few notes:

  • When I finally got the transmission off, the bell housing was full of sludgy, gritty crap. Not sure if I had a leaky throwout bearing or what. Took me quite awhile in the parts washer to clean it out but it came out nice.
  • I purchased a used OEM DMFW to replace mine and I'm glad I did. My flywheel was pretty bad looking. I bought Harbor Freight version of 2" Scotch Brite pads and arbor and hit the flywheel surface with the medium grit "scotch brite." It worked great and cleaned the flywheel surface right up. I don't anticipate any problems in the future but only time will tell.
  • The flywheel was a pain to bolt onto the crankshaft. It seemed to only line up one way and there are 8 bolts so 8 possible way to align it.
  • To keep the crank/flywheel from turning when I torqued the 8 flywheel bolts I put a 24mm socket and breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt. I had a helper hold the breaker bar while I worked the torque wrench. There is an OEM flywheel retainer tool if you are interested (tool number 3067) that runs about $25.
  • I got the rest of the clutch together without issue. Had to open up the 3 guide holes on the pressure plate with a ~1/4" drill bit as is well documented.
  • The differential flanges are spring loaded but went on easily with 2 people: 1 used a prybar to press the flange in, the other used a ratchet to install the bolt that holds it together.
  • I didn't bench bleed the throwout bearing and it took a ton of fluid (2ish pints) to bleed conventionally but it got there eventually.







__________________________________________________

Rear Main Seal

Parts List:

iAbed RMS & VW T20097 (462-103-171F-KT) - $124.00 + 16.56 shipping (excelerateperformance.com)

Victor Reinz Sealant (703141410) - $7.21 + Free shipping (ECStuning.com)

Total: $147.77


Resources:

VW Service Manual - RMS Installation Procedure
A big thanks to Greg from Excelerate Performance for answering all the questions I pestered him with about the RMS installation. He was so helpful and quick to respond.


Install Tips:
I didn't realize that it would be necessary to press the spring loaded seal into the billet bracket. Luckily I have a hydraulic press and found a PVC coupler that was a close enough diameter to work as a seal driver. It certainly wasn't ideal and took some time but I got it *almost* fully seated. I didn't want to press anymore for fear of deforming the seal. Installing the seal over the crankshaft was simple following Greg from Excelerate Performance's instructions (above) in addition to the service manual. I purchased the sealant he recommended as well as the install tool T20097. If I was forced to do the job without the tool I think I could have found a wax paper cup or similar of the correct diameter but it was cheap enough and worth it to make the job simple. Don't forget to put the "intermediate plate" heat shield/gasket thing back on before you bolt up your flywheel!





__________________________________________________



Overall Impressions & Test Drive


Firstly, I've been having some symptoms that led me to complete this clutch job. I've experienced clutch slipping intermittently at low RPM, high gear scenarios since the spring. The OEM clutch had
91k miles, the last 25k of which have been APR Stage 1. I took it easy on the clutch to the present 106k. The clutch had also gotten grabby and I had a lot of chatter. Gear changes were somewhat rough no matter how well timed my shifts were, especially in lower gears. I had also been experiencing really notchy shifting, to the point that I didn't feel comfortable forcing the car into 1st gear, during this recent cold weather. Lastly, I began experiencing intermittent throwout bearing squeal on engagement, particularly when the car was cold.

During assembly I completely replaced my transmission oil with OEM fluid and re-aligned my Dieselgeek Short Shifter. There seems to be some confusion as to which OEM fluid should be used on ECStuning.com but I was assured by one of their tech's that the fluid I purchased will work fine. I was surprised when I poured it out that it was close to the consistency of motor oil - much thinner than the 75w90
Motul Gear 300 oil I used before. I fired up the car and, immediately upon putting it in gear, the transmission felt great. That new fluid and short shifter alignment did the trick. The clutch pedal feels great, approximately 25% stiffer. The biggest difference is that clutch engagement is back to being buttery smooth. No chatter or grabby feeling. I'll have to get used to driving with the new clutch feel but I'm confident that will only take a few days. I'm excited to get through the break-in period because it feels like it will grab really well and be a blast to drive. I removed my clutch stop as a precaution but the bite is far enough off the floor that I think it will be fine to use.

Overall the drivetrain feels brand new and I couldn't be happier. I'll update this section after clutch break in.


UPDATE:
I've completed break-in period and the clutch feels great. I put the clutch stop back in and it works fine with the new engagement point. I haven't worked the clutch hard or launched or anything like that but everything feels great doing pulls. The pedal stiffness either subsided or I got used to it, but I'd say the pedal feels only slightly stiffer than stock, maybe 10%. The OEM transmission fluid has proved to make a great difference, particularly in this cold weather. Overall I'm really happy with the DIY RSR clutch and would highly recommend it if it suits your needs.

__________________
| 2011 GTI, 6speed, 4dr | Build Thread| Timing Chain Replacement Tips | DIY RSR Clutch & RMS Replacement Tips|

Last edited by Tony48; 04-18-2018 at 10:18 AM.
Tony48 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2018, 06:28 PM   #69
BringerOdeath
FIA GT Newbie
 
BringerOdeath's Avatar
 
Drives: 2011 GTI Candy White
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Franklin, TN
Posts: 725
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony48 View Post
DIY RSR Clutch is installed! Also replaced the rear main crankshaft seal with the iAbed Billet RMS. Parts lists, resources, and install tips below. Full Flickr album here, select embedded photos below. My Overall Impressions are at the bottom of the post. I will update them after clutch break in.
__________________________________________________

Clutch

Parts List:
Pressure Plate (07K 141 015 BX) - $365.26 + Free shipping (AudiUSAParts.com)

Clutch Disk (1878 005 146) - $110.99 + Free shipping (eEuroparts.com)
Dual Mass Flywheel (06J 105 266 H) - $75 + Free shipping (forum member, used for 50k on a stock Jetta)
Throwout Bearing (0A5 141 671 F) - $108.35 + Free shipping (ECStuning.com)
Transmission Fluid (G 052 527 A2) - $41.11 x3 + Free shipping (ECStuning.com)
VW Clutch Alignment Tool (T10097) - $15.99 + Free shipping (ECStuning.com)
Flywheel bolts (N 906 650 01) - $2.02 x8 + Free shipping (ECStuning.com)
Pressure plate bolts (N 903 207 01) - $0.99 x6 + Free shipping (ECStuning.com)
Throwout bearing bolts (N 908 470 02) - $1.00 x3 + Free shipping (ECStuning.com)

Total: $824.02


Resources:
Calkulin's "Build your own RSR clutch kit" Thread
T is for TURBO's Clutch Replacement Thread
GTI Mod Blog's Clutch Replacement Video


Install Tips:

Overall it wasn't a terrible job but I had a few issues. My goal was to remove the least amount of components possible. I didn't want to drop the subframe or remove the axles. I ended up unbolting both axles at the differential flanges, removing both flanges at the differential, and unbolting the ball joint at the control arm on the driver's side. This allowed enough clearance to move the driver's side axle over into the wheel well (you can see it in a few of the pictures). I also removed the bracket that holds the transmission mount to the transmission. Lastly, I unscrewed the 2 throttle body screws and a disconnected a few electrical connections between the radiator and front of the engine. All of this gave me enough clearance to get the transmission out but it was quite a pain. I didn't really have any other issues besides things generally being difficult to maneuver. I did notice a ~1/2" hole that was open but looks like it should have some kind of plug on the bottom of the transmission. I plugged it from the outside with a simple, ribbed panel fastener from the hardware store. A few notes:

  • When I finally got the transmission off, the bell housing was full of sludgy, gritty crap. Not sure if I had a leaky throwout bearing or what. Took me quite awhile in the parts washer to clean it out but it came out nice.
  • I purchased a used OEM DMFW to replace mine and I'm glad I did. My flywheel was pretty bad looking. I bought Harbor Freight version of 2" Scotch Brite pads and arbor and hit the flywheel surface with the medium grit "scotch brite." It worked great and cleaned the flywheel surface right up. I don't anticipate any problems in the future but only time will tell. The flywheel was a pain to bolt onto the crankshaft. It seemed to only line up one way and there are 8 bolts so 8 possible way to align it.
  • To keep the crank/flywheel from turning when I torqued the 8 flywheel bolts I put a 24mm socket and breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt. There is an OEM flywheel retainer tool if you are interested (tool number 3067) that runs about $25.
  • I got the rest of the clutch together without issue. Had to open up the 3 guide holes on the pressure plate with a ~1/4" drill bit as is well documented.
  • The differential flanges are spring loaded but went on easily with 2 people: 1 used a prybar to press the flange in, the other used a ratchet to install the bolt that holds it together.
  • I didn't bench bleed the throwout bearing and it took a ton of fluid (2ish pints) to bleed conventionally but it got there eventually.







__________________________________________________

Rear Main Seal

Parts List:

iAbed RMS & VW T20097 (462-103-171F-KT) - $124.00 + 16.56 shipping (excelerateperformance.com)

Victor Reinz Sealant (703141410) - $7.21 + Free shipping (ECStuning.com)

Total: $147.77


Resources:

VW Service Manual - RMS Installation Procedure
A big thanks to Greg from Excelerate Performance for answering all the questions I pestered him with about the RMS installation. He was so helpful and quick to respond.


Install Tips:
I didn't realize that it would be necessary to press the spring loaded seal into the billet bracket. Luckily I have a hydraulic press and found a PVC coupler that was a close enough diameter to work as a seal driver. It certainly wasn't ideal and took some time but I got it *almost* fully seated. I didn't want to press anymore for fear of deforming the seal. Installing the seal over the crankshaft was simple following Greg from Excelerate Performance's instructions (above) in addition to the service manual. I purchased the sealant he recommended as well as the install tool T20097. If I was forced to do the job without the tool I think I could have found a wax paper cup or similar of the correct diameter but it was cheap enough and worth it to make the job simple. Don't forget to put the "intermediate plate" heat shield/gasket thing back on before you bolt up your flywheel!





__________________________________________________



Overall Impressions & Test Drive


Firstly, I've been having some symptoms that led me to complete this clutch job. I've experienced clutch slipping intermittently at low RPM, high gear scenarios since the spring. The OEM clutch had
91k miles, the last 25k of which have been APR Stage 1. I took it easy on the clutch to the present 106k. The clutch had also gotten grabby and I had a lot of chatter. Gear changes were somewhat rough no matter how well timed my shifts were, especially in lower gears. I had also been experiencing really notchy shifting, to the point that I didn't feel comfortable forcing the car into 1st gear, during this recent cold weather. Lastly, I began experiencing intermittent throwout bearing squeal on engagement, particularly when the car was cold.

During assembly I completely replaced my transmission oil with OEM fluid and re-aligned my Dieselgeek Short Shifter. There seems to be some confusion as to which OEM fluid should be used on ECStuning.com but I was assured by one of their tech's that the fluid I purchased will work fine. I was surprised when I poured it out that it was close to the consistency of motor oil - much thinner than the 75w90
Motul Gear 300 oil I used before. I fired up the car and, immediately upon putting it in gear, the transmission felt great. That new fluid and short shifter alignment did the trick. The clutch pedal feels great, approximately 25% stiffer. The biggest difference is that clutch engagement is back to being buttery smooth. No chatter or grabby feeling. I'll have to get used to driving with the new clutch feel but I'm confident that will only take a few days. I'm excited to get through the break-in period because it feels like it will grab really well and be a blast to drive. I removed my clutch stop as a precaution but the bite is far enough off the floor that I think it will be fine to use.

Overall the drivetrain feels brand new and I couldn't be happier. I'll update this section after clutch break in.

Awesome man! I am glad that flywheel worked great for you! I love my RSR clutch as well! I just added a dual caliper rear brake on my car and have the some build log pics.
__________________
K04 G.I.A.C. Tuned, Godspeed FMIC V2.0, R8 red Coilpacks, Volant Intake, Fastbits DV+,42 Draft designs DP-high flow cat, Fluidampr, 034 motorsports street engine/tranny mounts, Vibratech Subframe insert, 034 motosports aspherical dogbone, 034 stainless subframe collar kit, IE Africa plate, AWE S3 style Charge /discharge pipes, Koni Coilovers, TSW Donington wheels, Golf R side skirts, TTRS BBK, Dual caliper Cayenne rear BBK
BringerOdeath is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-20-2018, 08:45 PM   #70
Tony48
FIA World Rally Car Champion
 
Tony48's Avatar
 
Drives: 2011 GTI
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Maryland
Posts: 522
Quote:
Originally Posted by BringerOdeath View Post
Awesome man! I am glad that flywheel worked great for you! I love my RSR clutch as well! I just added a dual caliper rear brake on my car and have the some build log pics.
Thanks again for the flywheel! So far I'm enjoying the clutch. Just starting to ease in to putting some power through it.

Just checked out your build log updates - the front TTRS brakes look awesome. Very nicely done. Dual caliper setup on the back looks awesome too but I have to ask, why did you decide to do it? If for no reason other than because you can, that's cool too! Any issues with pedal feel running front & rear brakes that big?
__________________
| 2011 GTI, 6speed, 4dr | Build Thread| Timing Chain Replacement Tips | DIY RSR Clutch & RMS Replacement Tips|

Last edited by Tony48; 01-21-2018 at 01:06 PM.
Tony48 is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:06 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.2
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.