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Old 07-31-2019, 06:19 PM   #1
Sebastian0471
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New member buying an MK6 asking for some help

Hi, this is my first post on the forum, and first I want to say hello and thanks for all the information is written and/or referenced here.

I had already decided to buy an MK6 2012 o 2013 and I have at least two main concerns. While I had read lots on information about them, it happens that is not always very clear. I would appreciate very much if you can give me some guide.

The issues are the following:

DSG manual mode or Manual transmission: I am concerned with the DSG transmission manual mode traction when downshifting on a downhill road. This on standard manual transmission is easy to handle and in my case is a must. Taking aside all other pros and cons of each kind of transmission; do you think can I get the same (or nearly the same) kind of traction with de DSG manual when downshifting on a downhill road compared with manual transmission?

Buying an ECU tuned car, or an ex ECO tuned or never tuned: I tend to think than a never ECU tuned car is always better, but I could be wrong. I think that drivers who tuned the ECO, tend to have a driving style that probably made a “more worn out car” for the same millage usage compared to a car that was not ECO tuned (generally speaking). Do you agree with this assumption? My intention at least for now, is not to tune the car at the beginning, unless I buy a tuned one.

Thanks in advance for any kind of guide or reference you could give me.

Sebastian
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Old 08-01-2019, 10:31 AM   #2
SnailPower
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Your assumptions are probably correct regarding a tuned car vs non-tuned. I mean, I think the point of why most people tune these cars or know about tuning them is so they could unlock more powa to move fasta! I'd imagine the majority floor it once they are tuned, lol.

Regarding DSG vs manual, that's entirely preference. I prefer to have full control over my car and feel more badass rowing gears. If that's something you enjoy, do it! You'll hear a lot of talk about DSG being faster, but for the fraction of speed difference, you'll probably have buyers regret when you realize how boring automatic is again.
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Old 08-01-2019, 11:16 AM   #3
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buy a non-molested 6mt. /thread
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Old 08-01-2019, 11:48 AM   #4
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personally i think a virgin 6spd is the way to go. Sure...DSG farts sound awesome.. if you're sitting in traffic autoshmatic is handy.. but seriously..
if you drive stick, drive stick.
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by the time you've read this, I'd have already done.....this > Mostly stock, APR stage 1 2.4 file, Stoptech rotors, GFB DV
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Old 08-01-2019, 01:38 PM   #5
Sebastian0471
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Thank you very much all of you. I am decided, manual never tuned car. I like speed but on mountain roads full of curves where I use many times the transmission for having good traction and as brakes in some way (having fun). On relative straight roads speed is almost irrelevant, and I do not drive on circuits.
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Old 08-01-2019, 02:14 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sebastian0471 View Post
Thank you very much all of you. I am decided, manual never tuned car. I like speed but on mountain roads full of curves where I use many times the transmission for having good traction and as brakes in some way (having fun). On relative straight roads speed is almost irrelevant, and I do not drive on circuits.
my mannn
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Old 08-01-2019, 02:19 PM   #7
sterkrazzy
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Just know if you do any mods you'll have to replace the clutch with something stronger, but it doesn't sound like you plan on tuning it.
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Old 08-01-2019, 03:47 PM   #8
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Good choice. This car is made for rowing gears!

Good luck with looking for one. Plaid seats add some HP too
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Old 08-01-2019, 05:02 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by sterkrazzy View Post
Just know if you do any mods you'll have to replace the clutch with something stronger, but it doesn't sound like you plan on tuning it.
@Sterkrazzy is right. depending on how many miles on the stock clutch.. if you tune you may need new clutch. Once it starts slippin that's it.

I got lucky... tuned @ 35Kms, Warranty on clutch @ 60+Kms...been on my OEM stock clutch w/ Stg 1 APR for last 230Kms but 85% highway driven. knock wood.
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by the time you've read this, I'd have already done.....this > Mostly stock, APR stage 1 2.4 file, Stoptech rotors, GFB DV
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Old 08-01-2019, 06:01 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Blakcard View Post
@Sterkrazzy is right. depending on how many miles on the stock clutch.. if you tune you may need new clutch. Once it starts slippin that's it.

I got lucky... tuned @ 35Kms, Warranty on clutch @ 60+Kms...been on my OEM stock clutch w/ Stg 1 APR for last 230Kms but 85% highway driven. knock wood.
It's crazy they still have this problem too. I'm starting to look around for a mk7 R, and even if you do a jb4 tune you'll start slipping.
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Old 08-01-2019, 06:07 PM   #11
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Oh and get a late model 2013 or later if you can so you know the timing chain tensioner has been updated. I would still check or if it's an older one and the owner can confirm it has been udated. My Nov 2012 built car had the updated tensioner.
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Old 08-01-2019, 06:32 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Blakcard View Post
@Sterkrazzy is right. depending on how many miles on the stock clutch.. if you tune you may need new clutch. Once it starts slippin that's it.

I got lucky... tuned @ 35Kms, Warranty on clutch @ 60+Kms...been on my OEM stock clutch w/ Stg 1 APR for last 230Kms but 85% highway driven. knock wood.
Thanks both of you for the advice. I did not took in account the clutch. At some point I think I am going to go Stage 1. There are so many good critics at the forum on doing that, that I am feeling tempted. Anyway the car is going to go to a mechanic with a scanner before I buy it, to have a general inspection and the Clutch!!
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Old 08-01-2019, 06:43 PM   #13
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Oh and get a late model 2013 or later if you can so you know the timing chain tensioner has been updated. I would still check or if it's an older one and the owner can confirm it has been udated. My Nov 2012 built car had the updated tensioner.
Thanks, GoNat. I read a lot about that issue, and I am looking for a 2013 model or after 09/2012. For sure I am going to talk with the seller and the inspection mechanic on the issue. But I am aware, that perhaps the damage in a 2012 model, could had already happened, and probably other parts were damaged and replaced, and in any case this would not be good.

On the other hand if I buy a 2012 model (2013 ere very few) I have no doubt I will replace the old for the new model tensioner.
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