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Old 08-08-2018, 12:45 PM   #1
5thApex
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Question Total Stereo Upgrade - Need some clarification

Hey guys, it's been a while since I last posted on this forum hoping to get a little clarity on upgrading my stereo. 5 Years into owning this car I still love it as much as the day I got it but after 5 years the speakers are showing their age. I've done stereo installs before, last was on my B6 S4 but that was 7 years ago, and at the time I removed the factory radio for an aftermarket Kenwood, it' was a pretty straightforward install. I want to keep the factory look this time around and the RCD-330 offers that as well as get rid of the sh*t nav of the RNS-315 (I already find myself using google/or apple maps more than what the RNS-315 offers)Below is a break down of my current stock setup and where I am looking to go.

Current Stock Setup
2013 GTI - 2-Door (non-dynaudio)
RNS-315 Headunit

New System
RCD-330
Rockford Fosgate T16s (front & back)
5 - Channel Amp (Manufacturer TBD)
Line-out Converter (unsure if the LC7i is necessary here)

I listen to a wide range of music, everything from metal/rock, and rap to House, Jazz, and Classical. But I'd definitely say my taste for higher-end audio quality has increased over the years. I understand that the Fosgate T16s have a tendance to produce great mids and highs and not enough bass but I am going to hold off on adding a sub unless I feel like it's necessary after I power the T16s. I like bass but I don't need a massive bottom end, and I feel like for how small the interior of our cars is that powered speakers and a sub may be overkill.

My question revolves around the proper line-out converter setup. Because I don't have a factory amp, is it really necessary to go with the LC7i or would I be fine running a basic 4-Channel line-out converter behind the RCD-330 and running 9-wire back to the amp? Or does the RCD-330 separate the signal enough that summing the LC7i does is a necessary part of using the RCD-330? I am trying to avoid running new speaker wire, but depending on what speakers I end up with if their RMS is 100 or above I'll run new 16 gauge wire.

Additionally, if I do have to go the route of using the LC7i will that signal processing mess with the external crossovers of the T16s, or I am I just plain wrong on that assumption?

On the speaker front, is anyone else running the Fosgate T16s, if not why, and what would you recommend, again I know I am going to picky about the sound. I am ok spending between $400-$600 on the speakers but a great case to be made for me to drop $600 on speakers alone. Also, if anyone is running T16s that are properly powered let me know if you think adding a sub is necessary, if not I'll just go with a smaller 4-channel amp.

I've also looked into these speakers
Kenwood Excelon XR-1700P
Polk Audio DB 6502
Kicker 44KSS6504 (no experience with Kicker, not sure how they match up)
Memphis Audio PRX50C (no experience with Memphis either)


Thanks for your help guys!
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Old 08-08-2018, 11:06 PM   #2
YellowC4S
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DSP anyone? Audison Bit, Helix DSP, RF, Alpine PXA-H800.
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Old 08-10-2018, 11:40 AM   #3
5thApex
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Ok, maybe my first post was too long to read through.

LC7i - do I need it if I don't have a factory amp or will another simple line-out converter work fine?

Quickly coming to the conclusion if I purchase higher-end speakers I am buying an aftermarket head unit.
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Old 08-10-2018, 12:06 PM   #4
riceburner
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I like the OP post. Nice consice info and inquiry following. Unfortunately I have no advice but I'll follow for more info
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Old 08-10-2018, 03:26 PM   #5
gijoewoz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YellowC4S View Post
DSP anyone? Audison Bit, Helix DSP, RF, Alpine PXA-H800.
A DSP will make the single biggest improvement that you can make. Stay away from the Audison, they are junk (despite the brand's reputation, their DSP is full of issues). The helix is probably the best of the bunch, the Alpine is still relevant, but if you have the cash go with the helix.

If you go with a DSP, then you can run your speakers active (instead of passive) and really take advantage of the tools a DSP has. This will allow you to buy "raw" drivers instead of pre-packaged car audio branded components, saving you money and getting you better speakers.
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Old 08-14-2018, 02:34 AM   #6
nadams5755
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i'm a fan of the helix and h800s. the h800 is one of the only dsps you can tune 100% without a pc (assuming you've got the rux-c800 as well)

you can use vagcom to set your radio to 'vw sound system' and tap low-level/line-level outputs off your radio. on the rns510, i got a clean 4vrms out at vol: 30 and 1khz 0db. however, i saw some weird stuff with 40hz 0db above vol: 20. so consider volume 20 to be your max and calibrate levels from there.

i had an rns315 i did this with: i didn't 'scope it though.

i went a little bonkers, you can look through my build thread.
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Old 08-14-2018, 03:06 AM   #7
nadams5755
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i don't know if you can do the vagcom hack on the rcd330 though.
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Old 08-14-2018, 10:32 AM   #8
gijoewoz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nadams5755 View Post
i don't know if you can do the vagcom hack on the rcd330 though.
I just saw the update to your build log on DIYMA, I'm hoping to never need to pull the headliner in my VW.

I wish I could confirm whether or not the RCD310 can be programmed for fullrange, unprocessed signal, but I can only find information about doing that to the 510. Regardless, I think the only solution for me is to ditch the OEM head unit completely.

When OP chimes back in we can see how far down the rabbit hole they want to go with the stereo build. A DSP might not be the route they want to take.
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Old 08-14-2018, 04:05 PM   #9
nadams5755
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pulling the headliner wasn't bad.

the options exist for the rcd310, and i tried it. it didn't do anything.

but you couldn't buy the that radio w/ an upgraded system so i think the option is a noop.
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Old 09-26-2018, 10:03 PM   #10
YellowC4S
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Alpine i902D-G6
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Old 10-14-2018, 12:10 PM   #11
Philimon
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Alpine i902D-G6
How much?
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Old 10-14-2018, 08:41 PM   #12
YellowC4S
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$1100 on ebay
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Old 11-04-2018, 09:25 AM   #13
Maloneyy
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I would opt for going aftermarket on the radio. I know people like that OEM feel and finish, but, a nice Kenwood or Alpine will make a solid amount of difference in sound quality without needing a DSP.

If you still want to say, go active or do time alignment, consider doing a JL Audio VX1000/5i in your car. It fits nicely under the seat, has the TuN software built in and can go active, time alignment, etc. with out the need of running excess cabling and another box.

I have one and it fits nicely under the drivers seat.
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