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Old 02-14-2018, 04:36 PM   #15
MKVInnie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gijoewoz View Post
It's interesting that the OP wants an inexpensive, simple, basic solution and you linked a build of a very complex active build with horns and DSP, pretty much the opposite. Is there anything in particular you were trying to share, some of the pictures will be handy for sure, but all you did was post a link without any explanation, so I'm not sure what you're hoping the OP will get from it.
Yeah, Its called kidding, I figured that it was so over the top that it would have made the point, but oh well.

OP, if you're looking to do this yourself this video of the Focal Speaker install could be helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9ZV4oKqQog

Also, if you go this route and have room in your budget I would highly recommend putting in some sound dampening foam to increase the quality of the sound without getting expensive speakers.

Last edited by MKVInnie; 02-14-2018 at 04:59 PM.
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Old 02-14-2018, 06:24 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by gijoewoz View Post
I haven't had much of a chance to help you out yet, but I'm suspecting that this would work well. I need to check to see if it would fit, you'll need spacers, but even if you pay for spacers to be made, you'll still be in under budget, and these are much better speakers than the OEM ones.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...4-ohm--295-563

Since you have to drill out rivets to remove the OEM speakers, you may as well throw a better speaker in, since putting another OEM speaker in won't be a simple plug and play. You'll either need rivets, or some hardware with a blind nut type of fastener. I'll report back, but maybe this will give you an idea of your options. Browse the site for other speakers that size so you can see how many options there are.
No rush. Less speakers just means listening more to the car at work, which isn't a bad thing! I just don't want to permanently be without music. I think a family member should have tools so I can make some spacers out of MDF. Although if they're pretty cheap online I could just go that route too.

Looks pretty solid to me. I'll browse the other drivers in that size too. I'm guessing mounting depth is something I'll have to keep an eye out for. I think I read 2.5" with a 1" spacer works best, but up to 2.7" is fine as long as I take into account the excursion of the woofer and the panel of the door.

Drilling out rivets won't be an issue. I don't have a rivet gun so I'll see if anyone I know does, otherwise I'll go for some blind nut fastener as you said.
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Old 02-14-2018, 06:27 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by MKVInnie View Post
Yeah, Its called kidding, I figured that it was so over the top that it would have made the point, but oh well.

OP, if you're looking to do this yourself this video of the Focal Speaker install could be helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9ZV4oKqQog

Also, if you go this route and have room in your budget I would highly recommend putting in some sound dampening foam to increase the quality of the sound without getting expensive speakers.
It's all good. That video looks very helpful just browsing through it. I'll watch it in it's entirety before I go pulling off my door panel.

Sound dampening mats look relativity inexpensive and they seem to have great reviews. $65 bucks would get me enough to do 80 mil thickness in all of the locations. Do you have personal experience with them?
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Old 02-15-2018, 07:57 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Coogie View Post
Have you considered getting OEM from a part-out? It would be cheaper then new OEM and you still retain VW parts.
why replace crappy speakers with another set of used crappy speakers? Defeats the purpose, don't it?

OP, most aftermarket 6.5" speakers will require spacer rings for the speakers because the maximum depth is around 2". If you want some inexpensive sound deadening, go with GTMat on eBay. Works just as good as Dynamat but a fraction of the price.
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Old 02-15-2018, 09:14 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by nvturbo View Post
why replace crappy speakers with another set of used crappy speakers? Defeats the purpose, don't it?



OP, most aftermarket 6.5" speakers will require spacer rings for the speakers because the maximum depth is around 2". If you want some inexpensive sound deadening, go with GTMat on eBay. Works just as good as Dynamat but a fraction of the price.


I think OP and I have same year and trim. My DynaAudio speakers that came from factory work perfectly.
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Old 02-15-2018, 11:51 AM   #20
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There's is actually closer to 3" of mounting depth, if you use the right spacer. You've got about 1 1/2" in the door, and another 1 1/2" between the door and the door panel. I wouldn't push the 3" because I know it will get very close, but 2 3/4 will definitely work. I would also recommend using some vibration dampener while you've got the door apart, and if at all possible use HDPE for the spacers, they'll last forever, whereas you may have issues with the MDF over time.
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Old 02-15-2018, 07:50 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by gtimk6spd View Post
Sound dampening mats look relativity inexpensive and they seem to have great reviews. $65 bucks would get me enough to do 80 mil thickness in all of the locations. Do you have personal experience with them?
Yes, I did my doors with Second Skin Audio products: I used their Damplier Pro and Luxury Liner pro on as many surfaces inside the door as I could. There is a lot of wiring and stuff so you can't do full coverage but every part helps. There is a section near the speaker you'll definitely need to get. It has made a big difference in audio quality and road noise.

Out of scope, but I also did the whole hatch area, spare wheel, under rear seat, rear quarter panels around the speakers and front foot wheels with it. I got cleaner music, deeper bass from the rear speakers and significantly less road noise from this. For some reason it feels like it absorbs bumps in the road better too. Worth doing overtime but it is a lot of work to take apart the interior.
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Old 02-16-2018, 10:24 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by gijoewoz View Post
There's is actually closer to 3" of mounting depth, if you use the right spacer. You've got about 1 1/2" in the door, and another 1 1/2" between the door and the door panel. I wouldn't push the 3" because I know it will get very close, but 2 3/4 will definitely work. I would also recommend using some vibration dampener while you've got the door apart, and if at all possible use HDPE for the spacers, they'll last forever, whereas you may have issues with the MDF over time.
^Good info here. I used a 3/4" spacer made from plywood and spray painted it to provide some weather resistance. That gave me enough room to mount a set of Morel Maximo 6's (2-3/8" mounting depth). Also, you only need to worry about mounting depth on the front speakers. The rear speakers (at least on a 4dr) have plenty of mounting depth available, hence why my rear speaker spacers are only about 3/8" thick and used to adapt the mounting screw pattern.

If anyone ends up installing spacers I recommend using rubber well nuts which are inserted from the front and expand so you don't need to have access to the back of the panel to add a nut. I drilled out the rivet holes and installed 8-32 well nuts which worked perfectly. Here's some inspiration pics of speaker mounting and sound deadening that I did. Hopefully it gives someone a better idea of the process and what's involved. There are some more pictures on the first page of my build thread and on my flickr.

IMAG0416_zps7mrmdfnp by Tony G, on Flickr
IMAG0525_zpsuwtmajak by Tony G, on Flickr
IMG_20170325_130416 by Tony G, on Flickr
IMG_20170325_130409 by Tony G, on Flickr


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Old 02-16-2018, 03:01 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nvturbo View Post
why replace crappy speakers with another set of used crappy speakers? Defeats the purpose, don't it?

OP, most aftermarket 6.5" speakers will require spacer rings for the speakers because the maximum depth is around 2". If you want some inexpensive sound deadening, go with GTMat on eBay. Works just as good as Dynamat but a fraction of the price.
I figured Dynamat was a more expensive option so I was looking on Amazon at Noico. It's 36 sq ft of 80 mil for $64 which is similar to the one you mentioned on eBay. I think the main this that I stay away from Dynamat to save money. Thanks for the tip.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coogie View Post
I think OP and I have same year and trim. My DynaAudio speakers that came from factory work perfectly.
I have the basic speakers. If I had Dynaudio I would have been very happy. My Volvo has those speakers and they sound fantastic!

Quote:
Originally Posted by gijoewoz View Post
There's is actually closer to 3" of mounting depth, if you use the right spacer. You've got about 1 1/2" in the door, and another 1 1/2" between the door and the door panel. I wouldn't push the 3" because I know it will get very close, but 2 3/4 will definitely work. I would also recommend using some vibration dampener while you've got the door apart, and if at all possible use HDPE for the spacers, they'll last forever, whereas you may have issues with the MDF over time.
Awesome! That gives me a little more to work with when selecting speakers. I'm still browsing, but I'll post up some other ones I am considering if I don't go with the ones you've linked earlier. HDPE does sound like the better option. I can only imagine MDF will soak up water and warp/potentially mold over time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MKVInnie View Post
Yes, I did my doors with Second Skin Audio products: I used their Damplier Pro and Luxury Liner pro on as many surfaces inside the door as I could. There is a lot of wiring and stuff so you can't do full coverage but every part helps. There is a section near the speaker you'll definitely need to get. It has made a big difference in audio quality and road noise.

Out of scope, but I also did the whole hatch area, spare wheel, under rear seat, rear quarter panels around the speakers and front foot wheels with it. I got cleaner music, deeper bass from the rear speakers and significantly less road noise from this. For some reason it feels like it absorbs bumps in the road better too. Worth doing overtime but it is a lot of work to take apart the interior.
Second Skin Audio looks like quality, but is more expensive than some of the ones I am looking at. I'm not saying they won't be better, but I don't know if I want to drop that much on sound deadening. I'll definitely cover as much as I can.

First step will be the doors. In the future I'll probably do the extra areas you mentioned. I think I'll wait until the weather is nicer to tear more of my interior out lol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony48 View Post
^Good info here. I used a 3/4" spacer made from plywood and spray painted it to provide some weather resistance. That gave me enough room to mount a set of Morel Maximo 6's (2-3/8" mounting depth). Also, you only need to worry about mounting depth on the front speakers. The rear speakers (at least on a 4dr) have plenty of mounting depth available, hence why my rear speaker spacers are only about 3/8" thick and used to adapt the mounting screw pattern.

If anyone ends up installing spacers I recommend using rubber well nuts which are inserted from the front and expand so you don't need to have access to the back of the panel to add a nut. I drilled out the rivet holes and installed 8-32 well nuts which worked perfectly. Here's some inspiration pics of speaker mounting and sound deadening that I did. Hopefully it gives someone a better idea of the process and what's involved. There are some more pictures on the first page of my build thread and on my flickr.

IMAG0416_zps7mrmdfnp by Tony G, on Flickr
IMAG0525_zpsuwtmajak by Tony G, on Flickr
IMG_20170325_130416 by Tony G, on Flickr
IMG_20170325_130409 by Tony G, on Flickr


Awesome photos and tips! Thank you. I wonder if I could just cover MDF (if I got that route instead of HDPE) with something like Modge Podge or an enamel sealer. HDPE isn't that expensive in retrospect, so I'll weigh out my options. MDF is just so easy to get and I'm pretty sure I have extra laying around. I have the 2DR but I remember reading somewhere that the rear have a bit more room than the front. So as long as I am cleared in the front I should be good in the rear.

Those rubber well nuts look like they make things nice and easy. I'll pick some up and use those when mounting. Thank you for the pictures too! The more I see posts on here the better. I checked out some of your Flickr, you have a very clean audio setup! Nicely done.
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Old 02-16-2018, 03:18 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by gtimk6spd View Post
Awesome photos and tips! Thank you. I wonder if I could just cover MDF (if I got that route instead of HDPE) with something like Modge Podge or an enamel sealer. HDPE isn't that expensive in retrospect, so I'll weigh out my options. MDF is just so easy to get and I'm pretty sure I have extra laying around. I have the 2DR but I remember reading somewhere that the rear have a bit more room than the front. So as long as I am cleared in the front I should be good in the rear.

Those rubber well nuts look like they make things nice and easy. I'll pick some up and use those when mounting. Thank you for the pictures too! The more I see posts on here the better. I checked out some of your Flickr, you have a very clean audio setup! Nicely done.
Thanks! Whenever I'm researching a project I always feel more prepared after I look at pictures from others. My opinion is you'll be fine to use MDF or plywood as long as you coat it in something waterproof. Definitely go for a few coats of paint or sanding sealer. Let me know if you wind up with any questions as you work through the project.
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Old 02-16-2018, 06:26 PM   #25
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I think this is the best value in vibration dampening material:

https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-K...rds=kno+knoise

You can seal mdf, just know that if you put a screw into it, it won't be sealed any more. If you want to do this once, and expect it to last indefinitely, HDPE will do it. I have sealed MDF rings with bedliner, and they have held for several years, but these day's I'd much rather use HDPE.


I spend most of my time over at DIYmobile audio, and know a lot more about audio reproduction than I know about volkswagens. I'm happy to help, so let me know if you have any questions.
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Old 02-17-2018, 07:29 PM   #26
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Thanks! Whenever I'm researching a project I always feel more prepared after I look at pictures from others. My opinion is you'll be fine to use MDF or plywood as long as you coat it in something waterproof. Definitely go for a few coats of paint or sanding sealer. Let me know if you wind up with any questions as you work through the project.
Agreed, photos/videos are worth an immense amount! I'll let you know if I end up with any questions from here on out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gijoewoz View Post
I think this is the best value in vibration dampening material:

https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-K...rds=kno+knoise

You can seal mdf, just know that if you put a screw into it, it won't be sealed any more. If you want to do this once, and expect it to last indefinitely, HDPE will do it. I have sealed MDF rings with bedliner, and they have held for several years, but these day's I'd much rather use HDPE.


I spend most of my time over at DIYmobile audio, and know a lot more about audio reproduction than I know about volkswagens. I'm happy to help, so let me know if you have any questions.
That's a good point about the MDF. I'll first see if I can get HDPE for a good price and if I can actually use tools of my family member to make the spacers. If not I'll have to look into premade. I only see ABS at first glance which I assume is more prone to cracking?

Neat! Thank you for the help
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Old 02-18-2018, 01:32 PM   #27
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Agreed, photos/videos are worth an immense amount! I'll let you know if I end up with any questions from here on out.



That's a good point about the MDF. I'll first see if I can get HDPE for a good price and if I can actually use tools of my family member to make the spacers. If not I'll have to look into premade. I only see ABS at first glance which I assume is more prone to cracking?

Neat! Thank you for the help
ABS will crack. I'd be happy to cut out some spacers for you with my router when you're ready. I'm running Illusion Audio speakers, so I didn't need a big spacer, so my HDPE was cheap. With deeper speakers you'll need thicker HDPE, so it'll get expensive. The way our doors are made, I think sealed MDF will hold better in our doors than in most other cars, so if you need a 1" or thicker spacer, sealing some MDF will be much less expensive, and still give you many years before you need to worry.
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Old 02-20-2018, 09:37 PM   #28
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ABS will crack. I'd be happy to cut out some spacers for you with my router when you're ready. I'm running Illusion Audio speakers, so I didn't need a big spacer, so my HDPE was cheap. With deeper speakers you'll need thicker HDPE, so it'll get expensive. The way our doors are made, I think sealed MDF will hold better in our doors than in most other cars, so if you need a 1" or thicker spacer, sealing some MDF will be much less expensive, and still give you many years before you need to worry.

How much would it cost to make some HDPE spacers, roughly? If MDF held up for a year or two that wouldn't be too bad. I don't think I'll be getting a new car in that time though so maybe investing in HDPE is worth it.

Edit: All I am finding with my terrible searching skills are very expensive, large sheets of HDPE. Especially in the 1" range.
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