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Old 05-18-2012, 05:07 PM   #43
Modshack
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Quote:
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Just ordered some aftermarket shims from amazon with rewards points and will post a review after I install them. My only concern is how easy is it to remove the brake quiet from the back of the brake pads. These shims are adhesive and I'm sure they will need a smooth clean surface to adhere to.
If they're simple stick on's they'll likely not help much if at all (tried em and didn't help for me.). Disk brake quiet is a silicone...Removes easily..
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Old 05-18-2012, 06:26 PM   #44
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These are the ones that go into the pistons and stick onto the pad. This should help right?
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Old 05-20-2012, 11:42 PM   #45
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If it's these you're talking about, http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...C%20Each%20%20 then you will still get some squeal. I've run this set-up on my mk5 for the last couple years with a moderately aggressive Ferodo DS2500 pad and the oem vibration dampers.
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Old 05-21-2012, 08:51 PM   #46
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Stock S pads:
http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...eyYbXmjNDsYzwY

Roughly modified S pads to mirror the Standard Boxster pad:


Stock pad:



S Pad:




So the obvious thing to do would be to lower the ledge that the pads sit on, however:



There is essentially no room, as I wouldn't feel comfortable with a pad that was any closer to the bracket.

Until there is a bracket that allows for a taller pad, I will be using the Standard Boxster pad.
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Old 05-21-2012, 08:53 PM   #47
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It does look that if the pad opening on the bracket was widened, it would allow for the pad to be lowered enough to have full contact.

Thoughts?
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Old 05-21-2012, 09:02 PM   #48
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I'm confused. It appears that the s pad covers the whole rotor. What is the issue you are having? Also, would I be able to modify the pad with a dremel and a cutting disk bit?
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Old 05-21-2012, 09:03 PM   #49
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My brackets are flat. The pad would defiantly hit the bracket right?
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Old 05-21-2012, 09:07 PM   #50
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The issue is that there is pad that sticks out the TOP of the rotor. To get it to lower to sit flush with the top of the rotor like the standard pads do, it would hit my bracket.

I am holding hope and exploring options on machining the brackets a bit.

Yes, I used a dremel on the above pad. It works, but doesn't look pretty. A steady hand, and the right bits, and you could do a better job than I did.
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Old 05-21-2012, 09:08 PM   #51
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If your bracket is flat, where mine curves up, then yes, it would definitely hit.
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Old 05-26-2012, 11:00 AM   #52
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I installed them yesteday, and HOLY CRAP!

These things are incredible.

SS lines, rebuilt calipers, HP+ pads and its insane.

I'll post up a review once I have more seat time.

Initial thoughts are the HP+ dust like crazy, turned my silver wheels gunmetal in 20 miles.

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Old 05-26-2012, 01:41 PM   #53
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Thanks for working on the S pad solution!

I guess the easiest thing to do would be to machine some of the pad material back on the outside.
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Old 05-26-2012, 08:05 PM   #54
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I installed the brake vibration dampeners aka shims and so far no more squealing. Will update after a few days.
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Old 05-26-2012, 09:22 PM   #55
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BTW, from the pictures above, it looks like your brakes are backwards. If you didn't swap the crossover and Bleed nipples from end to end, your Small piston is the leading one. On the Porsche application (behind the wheel) the Large piston is leading. In my experience, the brakes are more sensitive when backwards. Flipping the crossovers/nipples puts them in the same orientation as the Porsche application. They do feel more progressive when set up correctly and overly sensitive when wrong. I've tried it both ways. . Track guys say you'll get a bit of pad taper wear if not corrected...
You sure the larger piston is the leading one on the original Porsche application? In this pic of the caliper on a Boxster the smaller piston is the leading one.



This makes more sense as it would take less force to move the smaller piston than the larger one and the smaller one "bites" first. On my set-up I've had it set this way with the smaller piston leading for the last 2 years with no uneven pad wear. Mine is a mk5 application so the same as the mk6 but I used the instructions from Neuspeed when I swapped the hard lines and bleed nipples. http://www.neuspeed-europe.com/pdf/99.10.89D.pdf
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Old 05-26-2012, 10:15 PM   #56
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Let's put it this way. Brake bleed nipple always on top of caliper. His hole for it is on top so he is good.
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