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Old 04-16-2013, 08:30 PM   #57
sean96gsr
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Would this still be necessary on a 2013 GTI, or should I already have the latest part?
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Old 04-22-2013, 07:31 AM   #58
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Thumbs up Counter Hold Tool Soon For sale

I just want to throw this out there I purchased this tool last week right now it is sitting in my basement in its un-opened box.

I am going to do the timing chain tensioner Job this week and after I am done with it I will pass it on to the next person who needs it.

I can save everyone the trouble on this, when I purchased its a silly process.

When I purchased it it cost $41.00 but they do not include shipping or tax on the, a few days later I got 2 charges on my account for this item one for $57 and one for $55, 4 days later after everything cleared the ends price was $55 and the $57 was put back into my account.
Being that I will only use this one time after I am done with it I will sell this for exactly how much I payed for it $55 shipped to your house. I don't want to make any money on this and I would rather not loose anything I just want to pass the tool along and I would say the next person who gets it do the same.

Let me know if any one is interested I will make sure to post it on here when I have the payment from that person. As it stands right now I will have it shipped out either Sat or Mon.
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Old 04-30-2013, 12:40 PM   #59
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Wow so I did this update and now I have a problem I got a P0016. I did everything per this DIY, and some how this happened. I have not opened it back up yet but seriously I am at a loss. Any one have any experiences with this problem?
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Old 05-04-2013, 06:58 AM   #60
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I would say you either let the timing get off by a tooth when you did it or proper tension wasn't applied by the new tensioner which let it skip a tooth when you started it (The only way I see that happening is if you didn't pull the retainer pin to release the tensioner.)

The only answer now is to pull it all apart and set your timing which will include quite a bit more than this DIY covers.

1. I would start calling around for labor estimates
2. I wouldn't drive my car until I knew for a fact that it wasn't going to get off timing more and destroy the engine.
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:28 AM   #61
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Ok, so this seems pretty straight foward but I want to get a highlighted list of the steps that can cause severe motor damage if done incorrectly:

You MUST rotate the crankshaft pully to Top Dead Center (TDC) and ONCE in that position, it must never move, correct?

Once crankshaft pully is in TDC, you use the counter holder tool to prevent the pulley from moving while you remove the bolt ... I imagine this is easier said than done, how hard is it to keep the pulley still while removing the bolt? What happens if the pulley turns while you are removing the bolt, can you simply re-align it back to TDC?

Another question about this part "Remove crank pulley and unbolt front cover. There is one bolt underneath the serpentine belt tensioner that is quite difficult to get to. You have two options: remove the belt tensioner entirely, or (the much easier method), remove the pulley itself, and retract the tensioner to have enough clearence to get to the last bolt holding the cover on." The easier method says to remove the belt tensioner pully , then retract it to get to the last bolt holding the cover on. How is the belt tensioner pulley removed and retracted? Or is this just saying to rotate the belt tesionor pulley like you normally would when installing a belt to get it to move out of the way?

Once the cover is off it says to "Zip tie timing chain together and pull tensioner: ... Install the new tensioner and pull the retaining clip to allow piston in the tensioner to push on the guide:"

In the picture it looks like the tensioner being replaced "pushes" on the guide to keep tension... so by ziptieing the timing chain guides together it releaves the pressure on the tensioner, correct?

When installing the new tensioner it says to pull the retaining clip, which then allows it to expand and push out on the guide correct? And then the ratcheting action PREVENTS it from compressing back in , therefore it can never fail?
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:33 AM   #62
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Also this was said earlier "ALWAYS re install the crank center bolt (loosely) once you remove the crank pulley. The sprockets that drive the cams and the balance shaft assy are only held together by the center bolt and the serrations in the mating surfaces. Once you release tension on the cam chain, the sprockets like to jump 1-2 teeth if the bolt is not still in place. " So once the pulley is removed, we should loosely reinstall the bolt, can the cover still be removed with the bolt installed? Also should it be left loosely installed the entire time until rebuild, at that point remove the bolt and simply put the pulley back on (TDC) and slide the bolt in the middle and retighten? When retightening the bolt, what if the pulley turns out of TDC, can we simply align it back to TDC?
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Old 06-18-2013, 03:53 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twistid View Post
Ok, so this seems pretty straight foward but I want to get a highlighted list of the steps that can cause severe motor damage if done incorrectly:

You MUST rotate the crankshaft pully to Top Dead Center (TDC) and ONCE in that position, it must never move, correct?
No, that is only necessary if you are setting the timing. The goal here is to not mess with the timing at all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by twistid View Post
Once crankshaft pully is in TDC, you use the counter holder tool to prevent the pulley from moving while you remove the bolt ... I imagine this is easier said than done, how hard is it to keep the pulley still while removing the bolt? What happens if the pulley turns while you are removing the bolt, can you simply re-align it back to TDC?
See previous answer. Removing the crankshaft pulley bolt is easy, impact wrench. Torquing upon reinstall is a bit more difficult but if you have the counterhold tool, it isn't really hard at all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by twistid View Post

Another question about this part "Remove crank pulley and unbolt front cover. There is one bolt underneath the serpentine belt tensioner that is quite difficult to get to. You have two options: remove the belt tensioner entirely, or (the much easier method), remove the pulley itself, and retract the tensioner to have enough clearence to get to the last bolt holding the cover on." The easier method says to remove the belt tensioner pully , then retract it to get to the last bolt holding the cover on. How is the belt tensioner pulley removed and retracted? Or is this just saying to rotate the belt tesionor pulley like you normally would when installing a belt to get it to move out of the way?
You remove the pulley and then retract the spring loaded arm (the same way you would release tension from the belt like you described) to reveal the hidden cover bolt
Quote:
Originally Posted by twistid View Post

Once the cover is off it says to "Zip tie timing chain together and pull tensioner: ... Install the new tensioner and pull the retaining clip to allow piston in the tensioner to push on the guide:"

In the picture it looks like the tensioner being replaced "pushes" on the guide to keep tension... so by ziptieing the timing chain guides together it releaves the pressure on the tensioner, correct?
Yes and no. It keeps tension on the chain but remember, the tensioner is spring loaded so it isn't going completely remove tension. Once zip tied, you can unbolt the tensioner and it will come out and fully extend itself in the process.
Quote:
Originally Posted by twistid View Post
When installing the new tensioner it says to pull the retaining clip, which then allows it to expand and push out on the guide correct? And then the ratcheting action PREVENTS it from compressing back in , therefore it can never fail?
In theory, but remember the original design had a ratchet mechanism too. That's what failed on it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by twistid View Post
Also this was said earlier "ALWAYS re install the crank center bolt (loosely) once you remove the crank pulley. The sprockets that drive the cams and the balance shaft assy are only held together by the center bolt and the serrations in the mating surfaces. Once you release tension on the cam chain, the sprockets like to jump 1-2 teeth if the bolt is not still in place. " So once the pulley is removed, we should loosely reinstall the bolt, can the cover still be removed with the bolt installed? Also should it be left loosely installed the entire time until rebuild, at that point remove the bolt and simply put the pulley back on (TDC) and slide the bolt in the middle and retighten? When retightening the bolt, what if the pulley turns out of TDC, can we simply align it back to TDC?
The cover can be removed with the crank bolt installed.
The crank pulley is indexed and can only go on one way. See my first point as well.
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:45 PM   #64
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Thank you for your detailed reply, you've been very helpful!
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Old 06-23-2013, 01:26 PM   #65
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This weekend I worked with a mechanic friend to change my 2010 GTI's chain tensioner. We did it similiar to how it is described in this DIY. It took about 6 hours and the DIY makes the job look easy, which it isn't. When we had put it back together and added oil I tried to crank it. It ran awful and stalled. I assumed the worst right away. After I cranked it a second time it ran, but rough. This code was given:
000022 - Bank 1: CMP Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
P0016 - 000 - Incorrect Correlation
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 101319 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2105.14.19
Time: 00:34:27

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 790 /min
Load: 22.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 74.0C
Temperature: 36.0C
Absolute Pres.: 980.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.716 V

I noticed in the DIY that one should put the pulley bolt back in after removing the pulley. We didn't do that. I took some crappy before and after pictures if that is of any help.

Now the car is running a little better, but has little power in low RPM's and more in high and it takes longer to crank. At idle it isn't stalling anymore, but I need to get this fixed. Please provide me with some guidance. What must be done?
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Old 06-23-2013, 01:29 PM   #66
crashdb
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Timing off?
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Old 06-23-2013, 01:32 PM   #67
elcroato
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I don't see how. We never released tension on the timing chain.
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Old 06-23-2013, 04:39 PM   #68
dave80
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I'm installing a new timing chain tensioner during the 4th of july weekend and learned few steps that no one mentioned yet. I said some of this on mk5 board about keeping the sprocket from moving once the crankshaft pulley is removed since it will cause you problems with timing if you don't. Also, you have to install the crankshaft pulley in the same position as you removed it.



When the vibration damper is not reinstalled again immediately, insert securing bolt with sleeve -T10368-.



Renew bolt for vibration damper.
Renew O-ring -1-.
Lubricate sealing lip of oil seal with engine oil.
Fit vibration damper (pay attention to shape of tooth -arrow-).
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Old 06-23-2013, 05:37 PM   #69
elcroato
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Dave80, since we didn't follow that step we can assume the timing is messed up. However, is it the balancer shaft gear being driven by the third sprocket on that axis, whose timing is wrong?
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Old 06-27-2013, 05:56 PM   #70
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as you can see in the pic bellow which is of a tsi engine once you remove the bolt and the pulley everything just hangs in place by itself.

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