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Old 04-12-2013, 07:54 AM   #1
Bruh Man
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CTS K04 Coolant Return Line Issue?

EDIT: The CTS K04 kit does not include all of the necessary hardware to install as advertised. You will need to purchase a 15.3 Oetiker clamp and one thicker coolant line washer p/n N0138144.

I'm in the process of installing a CTS K04 kit. I was told the kit included everything needed for install, but had to buy a 15.3 Oetiker clamp for the vacuum line and now I'm thinking I should have bought one of the thicker washers as outlined in Grambles' APR DIY. The coolant return line is hitting in a few spots that can't be right. Even though Clay confirmed I received the right washers included in my kit it seems I need the thicker washer to clear the plug underneath...



Also, the line would not bolt back up without the rounded head between the washers resting against whatever you call that clamp...



Can any other CTS K04 users confirm if they had the same issue?

Last edited by Bruh Man; 04-23-2013 at 07:23 AM. Reason: Heads Up
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:01 AM   #2
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correct on both counts. The thick washer fixes the exact issue in your first pic. don't even install it until you have that, the coolant will drip. hmm your 2nd pic is showing contact on the side? no way to really fix that if its the banjo circle itself. i wouldnt want to loosen that clamp and tap it away, pretty risky.
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:05 AM   #3
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is it hitting the clamp that holds the compressor housing together?
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:17 AM   #4
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Quote:
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correct on both counts. The thick washer fixes the exact issue in your first pic. don't even install it until you have that, the coolant will drip. hmm your 2nd pic is showing contact on the side? no way to really fix that if its the banjo circle itself. i wouldnt want to loosen that clamp and tap it away, pretty risky.
Thanks, need to stop by the dealer for a few other things, will pick up the thicker washer.

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is it hitting the clamp that holds the compressor housing together?
Yes, I even had to dremel a tiny bit of the edge of the clamp off to thread the banjo bolt. Now that it's in, they're touching.
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:27 AM   #5
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dont think its a real problem. both pieces should not be moving independently of each other anyway. The banjo bolt is so tight that it will be locked together forever.
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:44 AM   #6
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You could have used the bottom port and been fine or spun the clamp an little bit or bend the line ever so slightly.

The return line is better on top so I would spin the hotside vband clamp a little bit and the when you tighten the line backup bend it so the it doesn't touch the lower plug you only need a 1/16th gap. The line could vibrate so you don't want it to actually touch.
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:03 AM   #7
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Getting the thicker washer (Or even just stacking two OEM Washers) will do the trick. Essentially, you are CRUSHING the coolant line against that plug. NVH over time will crack the line and cause leaks.

Stacking will cause more concerns for leaks, but shouldnt be an issue initially. By accident, I ran almost 35K miles with two washers stacked against each other on the front position coolant line with no leaks. Just FYI. Found out about it when I was uninstalling
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:06 AM   #8
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sorry to hear this.

I installed the same kit a few months ago w/o this issue.
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:10 AM   #9
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When you say leak, you mean a boost leak or something else? This issue doesnt affect performance right?
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:11 AM   #10
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Coolant leak.
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:09 AM   #11
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Thanks for the input everyone!

Quote:
Originally Posted by U-20T View Post
You could have used the bottom port and been fine or spun the clamp an little bit or bend the line ever so slightly.

The return line is better on top so I would spin the hotside vband clamp a little bit and the when you tighten the line backup bend it so the it doesn't touch the lower plug you only need a 1/16th gap. The line could vibrate so you don't want it to actually touch.
Can I spin the hot side clamp with the turbo bolted down to the manifold? Will anything shift once that clamp is loosened? Just want to make sure I don't damage anything.
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:11 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grambles423 View Post
Getting the thicker washer (Or even just stacking two OEM Washers) will do the trick. Essentially, you are CRUSHING the coolant line against that plug. NVH over time will crack the line and cause leaks.
How about where the round part is hitting the hot side clamp?
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:13 AM   #13
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Quote:
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How about where the round part is hitting the hot side clamp?
It should place the apex of the banjo bolt within the GAP between the end of the compression clamp. I never had an issue and my clamp was within the same area.
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:15 AM   #14
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Quote:
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Thanks for the input everyone!



Can I spin the hot side clamp with the turbo bolted down to the manifold? Will anything shift once that clamp is loosened? Just want to make sure I don't damage anything.
If you can get to it to losen you should be good, you would only loosen enough to tap with a screwdriver to spin it, if you are careful no problem.

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How about where the round part is hitting the hot side clamp?
That should not be as much as an issue and the line on the plug, you can try the method above if you are comfortable doing it, like I said you have it bend the line just a tad since its installed already.
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