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Old 04-01-2014, 05:59 PM   #15
2013R
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just what i want at a dealership.. (talked about in another thread also.) no wonder why people are wary taking their cars to the dealer. the mechanics want to beat the job time, so they can get more jobs, and basically make overtime. That means they rush through jobs as quick as they can. I'll take my time at home, thank you very much.
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Old 04-01-2014, 06:15 PM   #16
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just what i want at a dealership.. (talked about in another thread also.) no wonder why people are wary taking their cars to the dealer. the mechanics want to beat the job time, so they can get more jobs, and basically make overtime. That means they rush through jobs as quick as they can. I'll take my time at home, thank you very much.
Rushing a tedious job will most likely end up with something missing or not tightened. That's why I don't like or let other people work on my cars.
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Old 04-01-2014, 09:36 PM   #17
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Yup sometimes the truth hurts and I 100% agree I am the only one to work on my baby. Taking it to the dealer and letting someone else tinker under the hood, that's like letting another guy take your girlfriend out on a date lol
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Old 04-02-2014, 04:53 PM   #18
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I've done this job 20x times on various customer cars, my own car and many, MANY more A4's with the EA888 motor. Few things to clarify;

-You DO NOT need to remove the IM to do this, remove the TB, TB hose and front elbow pipe. I'd suggest tucking some of the wiring up and out of the way.

-The 12mm bolt is a REVERSE thread and really only needs to be loosened 3-4 turns to relieve tension on the belt. I usually cut the old belt off and and break the the 12mm loose with the old pump out. USE a 6-POINT socket. Use a 12 point and you will destroy your knuckles, or strip the head of the bolt.

-The connector piece should be replaced with the updated (black) part.

-Replace the 2 shorter bolts that join the pump near the ECT sensor - they usually get corroded and are hard to re-thread.

-Replace the o-ring to the coolant pipe that goes into the front of the engine. VW also has an updated part the superceeds and replaces the pipe with the thicker version to prevent stress-induced cracks. It's $30-40 and worth the insurance.

A lot of people shit on flat-rate techs and dealer techs for no reason. There are a lot of hacks out there, but there are also plenty of shade-tree mechanics that don't do much better. Not trusting someone to do their job because of how they get paid does not seem fair if you have not had work done before. I'm a flat-rate tech and while there are plenty of short cuts taken to save time - doing the job incorrectly wastes more time than doing it right in my experience. Time is made by knowing what to do, how to do it and where to do it correctly.
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Old 04-02-2014, 06:39 PM   #19
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I hear ya I too am a mechanic hence why I said only I work on my cars. And I also noticed that on all data they didn't say anything about removing the intake. So people that are doing this prob ate up some time doing an unnecessary step. That's also what I meant by a mechanic hustling that they could do it in a shorter amount of time not because they are rushing to make hours but because they have done the job several times and know the tricks and procedure of what they're doing. It always takes me longer doing a job for the first time but once u have done it a few times you know the steps by heart and can do it more quickly because you have done it before
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Old 04-20-2014, 08:35 AM   #20
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cant believe how much i learn on a daily basis.. for all these years, i thought the water pump was under the timing belt cover like most cars... what this makes me think about is maybe you can get a look under the unit to see for any stains or leaking? or is it impossible to get to?
The engine doesn't have a timing belt.....
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Old 04-20-2014, 08:46 AM   #21
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As mentioned there is absolutely no reason whatsoever to remove the intake manifold to replace the water pump and yes the toothed belt bolt is reverse thread, but it doesn't need to be touched unless you're replacing the belt which isn't necessary.

If you're buying parts always replace the entire water pump, the "union" (plastic piece with the o-rings), the o-ring on coolant pipe that goes into the front of the housing, and all the bolts as they have preapplied loctite on them.

And a big very important step that wasn't mentioned is you need a vacuum coolant filler to do the job correctly. Once the pump is bolted in and the lines are on let the filler pull a vacuum in the cooling system for a while. Let the vacuum pull coolant in, then revacuum the system and let it sit filled and under a vacuum for 20 minutes (while you reassemble). Once it's compete and everything is done and ready to run let the engine start and IDLE until the temp gauge is at full operating temp.

Last edited by DBESTGTI; 04-20-2014 at 09:36 AM.
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Old 04-20-2014, 09:45 PM   #22
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i did the same thing i did after my motor build. i bolted everything back together, topped off the coolant, ran the motor up to temp, topped off as necessary. and i would recommend changing the belt if you're in there, i had 90k on the car and would rather spend a few more bucks to change it then rather than waiting for it to start squeaking. information about the union is good to know.
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If you already have an intake, might as well just go big turbo while you're in the engine bay. Just my 2 cents.
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It's only then when I realize, in a moment of clarity, I should have bought Honda.
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Old 04-20-2014, 10:33 PM   #23
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How you did it is irrelevant, there is a right way.


Straight out of VW Tech Tip 19-13-02

"Please note that when replacing the water pump or opening the cooling system, there is a special bleed procedure that has to be performed. Vacuum bleed the cooling system for 10 minutes. Start the engine and let idle until the thermostat opens and the cooling fan runs, before driving vehicle or raising engine RPM."
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Old 04-21-2014, 07:50 AM   #24
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like i said, my procedure worked just fine, twice. that's how i've done it on all of my cars. if i don't need to buy a special tool i'm not going to.
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If you already have an intake, might as well just go big turbo while you're in the engine bay. Just my 2 cents.
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It's only then when I realize, in a moment of clarity, I should have bought Honda.
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Old 04-21-2014, 08:57 AM   #25
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The point is a how to should include the right way not your way
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Old 04-22-2014, 01:16 PM   #26
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like i said, i respect what you're saying but i did it just fine as have others. there's no reason to make the system more complicated than it is.
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If you already have an intake, might as well just go big turbo while you're in the engine bay. Just my 2 cents.
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It's only then when I realize, in a moment of clarity, I should have bought Honda.
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Old 04-22-2014, 03:30 PM   #27
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Great post
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Old 04-22-2014, 10:02 PM   #28
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like i said, i respect what you're saying but i did it just fine as have others. there's no reason to make the system more complicated than it is.
You are exactly right, there's no reason to more it more complicated than it needs to be.... VW doesn't tell you that's the right way to do it just to complicate the process, there is a reason they require that step on the TSI engine and nothing else. Have you seen people post about multiple pump failures and more commonly noise on the new pumps? Thats why you do it the right way, it's the right way for a reason and that reason to avoid repeat pump issues. There is no debate about it, what you did it not "just fine", it's incorrect and commonly leads to repeat water pump issues.

You can do it whoever you want on your own car but there is no good enough gray area, it truly is black and white.
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