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Old 01-26-2015, 10:53 PM   #57
robeeeerob
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HYDE16 Reviews - deAutoKey 1800 Lumen CREE LED Fog Light Kit

Installed these as fogs the other day. All I can say is Wow. Very pleased.

The light is very bright, and crisp white, with a slight hint of blue. These baby's illuminate areas I never knew I could see at night from the driver seat (thing of a half-done, nearly 180 degree viability, extending out wards at least 50ft in all directions). What I like is that the light that shines on these new-found areas isn't direct light; it's like a "peripheral" light (for lack of a better phrase). Which means people aren't blinded by the light, though they're lit up. Does any of this make sense? Lol.

Anyway, yeah these and the license plate LEDs are probably my favorite deautokey products I've purchased so far


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Old 01-29-2015, 10:36 PM   #58
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HYDE16 Reviews - deAutoKey 1800 Lumen CREE LED Fog Light Kit

Was doing some maintenance, when I noticed this on the outside cover inside the wheel well:



Closer....




That's melted plastic. The resistors for these kits get extremely HOT (duh), and the plastics on our cars are NOT safe from the heat:



Prob my own fault for assuming the plastics in the wheel well area were as heat-tolerant as the actual headlight/fog light housing plastics. I didn't keep my resistors "free floating", as there's nothing to secure them to.

Any ideas anyone on what I an do to prevent further melting of plastics??

Exhaust wrap perhaps?


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Old 01-29-2015, 10:52 PM   #59
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that resistor needs fins. an idea may be to use artic silver heat past and a real resistor heat sink something like this (see attached)
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:56 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deAutoKey View Post
Having them simply floating is fine too.



They get up to 200 degrees but your car can handle up to 500 degrees as halogen lights get even hotter than that, so there is no chance of a fire due to the heat given by the resistors.

^Fire, probably not. Melting plastics? Very likely.



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Are you saying every part of the car can handle up to 500 degrees? I could be wrong but I doubt the plastics in the wheel well will withstand that amount of heat. Maybe the metal parts of the fog light housing can withstand that temperature. I'm asking because I don't know.

You are correct about wheel wells. I have learned the hard way.


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that resistor needs fins. an idea may be to use artic silver heat past and a real resistor heat sink something like this (see attached)

Thanks for the idea! Looks like that might be pretty bulky, but may try it



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Old 01-30-2015, 09:31 AM   #61
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You are correct about the temperature impact, I would wrap it with PTP exhaust wrap and SS zip ties
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Old 01-30-2015, 11:28 AM   #62
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robeeeerob - sorry to see that, it is suggested to always have resistors attached to metal and that should have been stated here. We are sorry for the confusion. Headlights/taillights are able to handle 500+ degrees, including plastic bulb holders due to the high temps lights can reach. It should have been more clear that the parts that do not come in contact with lights such as the wheel well will not be able to handle high temperature.

a setup like this would be best - this allows you to attach this in more places such as plastic since the resistor will be on the metal:
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Old 01-30-2015, 01:45 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HYDE16 View Post
You are correct about the temperature impact, I would wrap it with PTP exhaust wrap and SS zip ties
Thanks for the feedback! This is actually what I did: picked up a small roll of some exhaust wrap and did about 2 full wraps (about 8 inches worth of wrap total) around each resistor (snug, but not tight). It was like $15 for the SS zip ties, so in lieu of those, I used very thin copper wire (wrapped it a couple times around the wrapped resistor, then tied a not). Do you think it's okay that I used copper wire? Was a little worried the copper wire could mess with some of the other electrical components or wiring?


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robeeeerob - sorry to see that, it is suggested to always have resistors attached to metal and that should have been stated here. We are sorry for the confusion. Headlights/taillights are able to handle 500+ degrees, including plastic bulb holders due to the high temps lights can reach. It should have been more clear that the parts that do not come in contact with lights such as the wheel well will not be able to handle high temperature.

a setup like this would be best - this allows you to attach this in more places such as plastic since the resistor will be on the metal:
Awesome suggestion! Looks very cost-effective, and not too bulky. I may try this if I feel like the exhaust wrap isn't holding up, or if I just want something more secure. Thanks for the feedback!
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Old 01-31-2015, 04:56 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robeeeerob View Post
Thanks for the feedback! This is actually what I did: picked up a small roll of some exhaust wrap and did about 2 full wraps (about 8 inches worth of wrap total) around each resistor (snug, but not tight). It was like $15 for the SS zip ties, so in lieu of those, I used very thin copper wire (wrapped it a couple times around the wrapped resistor, then tied a not). Do you think it's okay that I used copper wire? Was a little worried the copper wire could mess with some of the other electrical components or wiring?




Awesome suggestion! Looks very cost-effective, and not too bulky. I may try this if I feel like the exhaust wrap isn't holding up, or if I just want something more secure. Thanks for the feedback!

Ok, the exhaust wrap sounds like a good idea, keep us updated.

Thank you
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Old 01-31-2015, 05:05 PM   #65
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My worry would be that a wrapped resistor may eventually overheat and go out. Depending on what solder is used it may overtime cause a break in the circuit. The heat needs to be dissipated effectively.
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Old 01-31-2015, 05:57 PM   #66
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Quote:
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My worry would be that a wrapped resistor may eventually overheat and go out. Depending on what solder is used it may overtime cause a break in the circuit. The heat needs to be dissipated effectively.
I spoke to our lead tech, and yes the resistor should be mounted to metal so it can dissipate the heat.

They come with a lifetime warranty so if the resistors do go out, they will replace them they said, but if you want to try to avoid that, mounting them to metal would be the best idea.
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Old 01-31-2015, 10:04 PM   #67
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HYDE16 Reviews - deAutoKey 1800 Lumen CREE LED Fog Light Kit

Quote:
Originally Posted by jerome99 View Post
My worry would be that a wrapped resistor may eventually overheat and go out. Depending on what solder is used it may overtime cause a break in the circuit. The heat needs to be dissipated effectively.

Thanks for sharing the insight, Jerome!

Quote:
Originally Posted by deAutoKey View Post
I spoke to our lead tech, and yes the resistor should be mounted to metal so it can dissipate the heat.



They come with a lifetime warranty so if the resistors do go out, they will replace them they said, but if you want to try to avoid that, mounting them to metal would be the best idea.

Had the inner wheel well lining off cus I installed turbo outlet pipe and DV+ today, so I figured I'd adjust my resistor setup. It's looking good, and not touching anything else but the metal bracket it's screwed to. I feel much more comfortable with it now:




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Old 02-05-2015, 04:56 PM   #68
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robeeeerob - Great set-up, that should be perfect.

Thank you for sharing
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Old 02-27-2015, 04:47 PM   #69
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Hyde- so color temp they are more of a match to the OEM HID? I haven't picked up my bulbs and ballasts yet for my OEM retrofit. I'll pick up OEM bulbs if it matches these.
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Old 02-27-2015, 06:54 PM   #70
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Hyde- so color temp they are more of a match to the OEM HID? I haven't picked up my bulbs and ballasts yet for my OEM retrofit. I'll pick up OEM bulbs if it matches these.
100% match
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