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UBER-STEALTH Under Floor Sub Install
- Thread starter veedoubleme
- Start date
veedoubleme
Go Kart Champion
Yes, you just have to throw away the Dynaudio setup, tell the head unit it's not Dynaudio anymore, and use the speaker level outs off the back of the head unit as inputs to the new amp. It's a lot of work, but people have done it. If you don't have Dynaudio, then that saves some steps.
If you are going to take the speaker level output and cut it down to re-amplify it more cleanly, you'd probably want to use a signal processor like something from Audio Control, or a Bit One, or a CleanSweep, or whatever else. And you'd need to replace all of your speakers to handle the additional power. And then after all that, why keep the OEM head unit?
You basically take the pill and go down the rabbit hole if that's the plan.
veedoubleme
Go Kart Champion
Then the best way (IMHO) is something like the JL CleanSweep to clean up the signals, and then run it into a good 4 channel amp and replace all of your speakers. I'd think of the sub as separate. In fact, you could get an uberstealth now and install it and see if it makes you happy. If not, you can still use everything, so there is no loss.
FatalSunrise
New member
Hey veedoubleme, I'm wondering why you tapped rear speakers and not the front ones?
FatalSunrise
New member
Is this really the only reason? I mean I don't see the point in this. If you fade the rear speakers then the music is not loud enough on the back seat. It's easier to adjust the amplifier connected to subwoofer or if you have LC2i then you can adjust that or am I missing something here? I'm asking 'cause I tapped the front speakers
veedoubleme
Go Kart Champion
I tapped the rear speakers because the wires were easy to get to and I knew where they were. I don't use the fader feature since I have the JL volume knob handy.
P
plac
Guest
i missed this part earlier. so you dont even need a remote wire for the LC2i. and it also has a remote-out, which goes to your amp i guess.
veedoubleme
Go Kart Champion
Yeah, the main constant amp power feeds the power to the LC2i, which feeds remote turn on back to the amp. Works slick, and cuts down on the amount of wire. I braided the wires for no reason other than it seemed like a fun idea at the time, but you can see the 12v constant, ground, and remote wires all go from the LC2i to the same terminals on the amp.
veedoubleme
Go Kart Champion
If yours is already dialed in, you probably won't need this, but it might help others. I agree, it is tricky to dial it in, especially if you don't have a meter.
Earlier in this thread, I said that the RNS-315 with DynAudio starts cutting the bass from volume 14 onward. It and it was measurable with my SPL meter. The LC2i corrects for the bass defeat above whatever volume level you want, but you do need to tune it by ear if you don't have a meter. I'll tell you exactly how I tuned mine.
First, download this tone: http://realmofexcursion.com/audio/50hz.mp3
Load it in into your iPod/iPhone to play through your stereo. Next, everything needs to be wired up, with the LC2i in place, hooked to your speaker level taps, then feeding into your sub amp out of the "Bass" line out jacks off the LC2i. Set your AccuBASS Threshold to the minimum level on the LC2i (all the way counter clockwise), and all other settings set to the middle.
On your head unit, set bass, mid, and treb all to 0 for tuning. With the test tone playing, start turning up your volume and try to hear when the sub stops gaining much volume. If you have Dynaudio, it'll be at volume level 14. If you don't, I can't guarantee where that point is. It's going to be somewhere past 1/2 volume but lower than full. On my head unit it's about 3/4 before the speakers clip with normal music. For example, my speakers clip around 21, so I consider 20 max, and bass cuts out after 14. Finding where the bass stops increasing in volume is the trickiest part. I used a meter and then graphed it out earlier in this thread. The main thing is, you can't tune the LC2i until you figure that part out.
Once you find that point on your stereo, leave the volume there. With the test tone playing, very slowly turn the threshold up on the LC2i (clockwise) until you hear the sub sort of "pop" in (although it's more of a quick fade). Then start dialing it back until it pops/fades back out. What matters here is the head unit settings get matched to the threshold. Eventually find the magic place on the threshold, just a tiny bit turned up from where it pops in. That is the key setting. It basically tells the LC2i "from here, start boosting bass." The "how much you boost bass" is controlled by the accubass dial. I have the accubass dial set back about 1/2 to 1/4 from middle, but taste will vary here.
After you get the threshold set, it's really just a matter of dialing in accubass and the gain on your amp. The bass boost/gain on the LC2i just increases the output going to the sub amp, so it's actually just another gain setting.
Also, for reference, with mine set up how it is, if I turn it up to volume 14 and stop, about 2-3 seconds later I can hear the accubass kick/fade in smoothly and the sub sounds better. It's a slight delay, which is nice so that it's not sharp or startling.
I hope that helps.
