Official Timing Chain Tensioner failure thread

[A3SBQ]

Wow. Good jobb. Make some picture of the progress and parts been used.
Please post part numbers if possible.
This way we can see if parts are being swapped to another revised unit.

Keep us posted.

 

[Tiguanowner]

I have a VW 2009 Tiguan. I got in to drive it and it was a longer crank. It would barely go. The engine and EFC light came on. It started shaking back and forth extremely bad at stoplights and finally started to let me accelerate but at the stoplights still shaking and acting like it would stall out. It has the codes that are on the bulletin with this issue along with some others like misfire. I took it up to the dealer Saturday and it died in front of service department. It will not crank back up. It is a certified preowned and still in warranty with months but OUT of warrant by 2,000 miles with mileage. It has 62,000 miles. Diagnosis which means tearing down the engine will probably not be done till Monday or Tuesday because they are busy and have only 2 techs for this type of job. I am in a loaner. Contacted VW customer service. They want maintenance records which I will send. I did not keep or cant find everything but will send what I have. Is there any luck of getting this paid for??

From what mechanic states ( i drove up there yesterday ) it does seem to be timing issue and no compression and best case is only damage to top 1/2 of engine about 2K in charges or I could need remanufactured engine or could get new engine which could be in excess of 7K :O

 

[BAM its mitch]

I have a VW 2009 Tiguan. I got in to drive it and it was a longer crank. It would barely go. The engine and EFC light came on. It started shaking back and forth extremely bad at stoplights and finally started to let me accelerate but at the stoplights still shaking and acting like it would stall out. It has the codes that are on the bulletin with this issue along with some others like misfire. I took it up to the dealer Saturday and it died in front of service department. It will not crank back up. It is a certified preowned and still in warranty with months but OUT of warrant by 2,000 miles with mileage. It has 62,000 miles. Diagnosis which means tearing down the engine will probably not be done till Monday or Tuesday because they are busy and have only 2 techs for this type of job. I am in a loaner. Contacted VW customer service. They want maintenance records which I will send. I did not keep or cant find everything but will send what I have. Is there any luck of getting this paid for??

From what mechanic states ( i drove up there yesterday ) it does seem to be timing issue and no compression and best case is only damage to top 1/2 of engine about 2K in charges or I could need remanufactured engine or could get new engine which could be in excess of 7K :O

How many miles did it have when you bought it?

 

[Shinster]

Happened to me today There was some rattle when starting up the engine but it would run fine. Later in the afternoon, car wouldn't start. Or it did but it was definitely struggling. Sounds very weak and there's lots of vibration. Was just like this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUpoky3IT6c

Got it towed to a dealer and am now playing the waiting game. I'll give you guys an update when I get one.

 

[LightningRhod]

Happened to me today There was some rattle when starting up the engine but it would run fine. Later in the afternoon, car wouldn't start. Or it did but it was definitely struggling. Sounds very weak and there's lots of vibration. Was just like this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUpoky3IT6c

Got it towed to a dealer and am now playing the waiting game. I'll give you guys an update when I get one.

How many miles do you have on the car?

 

[Shinster]

How many miles do you have on the car?

I'm at a little over 48,000. I've had APR Stage II for almost 2 years now.

 

[djrobot]

I didn't see it in the thread, correct me if I'm wrong, but does anyone have a part # for the updated tensioner? I'm just going to buy it and have it replaced as a precaution.

Is the tensioner all that needs replacing?


LOL EDIT: Part number is on the photo. I am dumb.

 

[RandomUserName]

I didn't see it in the thread, correct me if I'm wrong, but does anyone have a part # for the updated tensioner? I'm just going to buy it and have it replaced as a precaution.

Is the tensioner all that needs replacing?


LOL EDIT: Part number is on the photo. I am dumb.

Part # for the tensioner is 06K109467K

You will also need some bolts in order to do it properly.
2 X N01950213 - Engine mount bracket bolt (fender side to motor mount)
1 X N90529602 - Crank pulley bolt (I believe)
1 X N91029602 - Motor Mount Body side bolt w/stud on top
15 X N91096702 - Timing cover bolts
1 X 06H109210Q - Timing cover (I bent the hell outta the old one, and if you re-use it, you will need to replace the seal in it anyways.)
2 X I am not sure. These are the bolts that go from the Body side Motor Mount to the Engine side motor mount bracket.
Silicone sealant. Needed for making new gaskets. I noticed that the upper timing chain cover was leaking a little oil on the lower back corner. I little silicone and voila.

I just finished replacing the tensioner and adjusting the timing after I had a failure. There is some info that I learned through taking my time and I will share it with you.

The intake balance shaft has 2 timing marks on it. The first is on the sprocket from the 1st plane of the timing chain. The second is very difficult to see with the motor in the car. The intake shaft uses an idler pulley to rotate opposite of the exhaust shaft. If you look carefully, behind the chain pulley, there is another gear with marks on it. The upper gear has a single dot, and the lower (behind the timing gear) has 2 dots on it. They only align once every 7 rotations, so make sure that they are aligned as well.

Also, if you drop the pan and find anything resembling a very fine screen, remove your bearing bridge. There is a little filter screen in behind that can get plugged with sludge, and thus blowing out with the pressure from the oil pump increasing. I have counted 6 screens besides the one in the oil sump. I was stumped as to why I had around the recommended pressure at 2K, but almost 0 at idle. When I dropped the pan, I found a small screen in the pickup tube.

 

[djrobot]

Part # for the tensioner is 06K109467K

You will also need some bolts in order to do it properly.
2 X N01950213 - Engine mount bracket bolt (fender side to motor mount)
1 X N90529602 - Crank pulley bolt (I believe)
1 X N91029602 - Motor Mount Body side bolt w/stud on top
15 X N91096702 - Timing cover bolts
1 X 06H109210Q - Timing cover (I bent the hell outta the old one, and if you re-use it, you will need to replace the seal in it anyways.)
2 X I am not sure. These are the bolts that go from the Body side Motor Mount to the Engine side motor mount bracket.
Silicone sealant. Needed for making new gaskets. I noticed that the upper timing chain cover was leaking a little oil on the lower back corner. I little silicone and voila.

I just finished replacing the tensioner and adjusting the timing after I had a failure. There is some info that I learned through taking my time and I will share it with you.

The intake balance shaft has 2 timing marks on it. The first is on the sprocket from the 1st plane of the timing chain. The second is very difficult to see with the motor in the car. The intake shaft uses an idler pulley to rotate opposite of the exhaust shaft. If you look carefully, behind the chain pulley, there is another gear with marks on it. The upper gear has a single dot, and the lower (behind the timing gear) has 2 dots on it. They only align once every 7 rotations, so make sure that they are aligned as well.

Also, if you drop the pan and find anything resembling a very fine screen, remove your bearing bridge. There is a little filter screen in behind that can get plugged with sludge, and thus blowing out with the pressure from the oil pump increasing. I have counted 6 screens besides the one in the oil sump. I was stumped as to why I had around the recommended pressure at 2K, but almost 0 at idle. When I dropped the pan, I found a small screen in the pickup tube.

Thanks for all the info! This is great stuff. Much appreciated.

 

[vwgti2.0t]

Lol. You need the tensioner, one crank bolt and the vw sealant (you can get away with using black rtv). I did mine a few thousand miles ago like this with no issues. Why anyone changes all of these bolts is beyond me.

 

[RandomUserName]

Lol. You need the tensioner, one crank bolt and the vw sealant (you can get away with using black rtv). I did mine a few thousand miles ago like this with no issues. Why anyone changes all of these bolts is beyond me.

Technically speaking, they are TTY (Torque to yeild) bolts. Read:stretch bolts. They are torqued to the spec, and then an added X turn to finish them off. Manufactures use them because they are cheaper than graded bolts. You CAN get away without replacing them, but why?

And why did you replace the crank bolt then? It could have been re-used as well....

 

[vwgti2.0t]

Technically speaking, they are TTY (Torque to yeild) bolts. Read:stretch bolts. They are torqued to the spec, and then an added X turn to finish them off. Manufactures use them because they are cheaper than graded bolts. You CAN get away without replacing them, but why?

And why did you replace the crank bolt then? It could have been re-used as well....

The crank pulley bolt is TTY and is holding on an integral piece to the engine spinning at 1000's of rpm's. the bolts holding on the lower timing cover, although they are TTY, are not nearly as stressed as the crank bolt. The bolts for the motor mount are just regular bolts (from the BFI mounts) and are not TTY. But either way, I wouldn't have changed these either. I removed and reinstalled tons of TTY bolts in many cars with no issues.

The why part? I did the whole job for 90 bucks (tensioner, sealant and bolt). Paying an extra $160 for some bolts and a cover than can be reused if you aren't an idiot is ridiculous.

 

[dave80]

Timing cover bolts are like 30 cents each.

 

[Bimmersmith]

Happened to me today There was some rattle when starting up the engine but it would run fine. Later in the afternoon, car wouldn't start. Or it did but it was definitely struggling. Sounds very weak and there's lots of vibration. Was just like this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUpoky3IT6c

Got it towed to a dealer and am now playing the waiting game. I'll give you guys an update when I get one.

Yup, this is almost the exact same sound mine was making, only with less of the gurgly bearing like noise. But that "CLACK CLACK CLACK CLACK CLACK" is right on point.. :yikes:

 

[djrobot]

Yup, this is almost the exact same sound mine was making, only with less of the gurgly bearing like noise. But that "CLACK CLACK CLACK CLACK CLACK" is right on point.. :yikes:

This video is alarming. My engine sounds just like this. I'm making an appointment.