Adjusting/modifying the internal bump stops on B8 struts… (please lend help & wisdom)

[tigeo]

P

I appreciate all the info here as I just picked up some B8s.

Picture/info is above in my OP in this thread showing the rubber installed.

 

[walrussss]

After getting the rubbers from advanced auto the bottoming out is greatly reduced

The method that @tigeo has suggested seems to be a success. I have progressive Eibach prokit and B8

Initially I was worried these would increase ride height (as they advertise) and kinda negate the point of lowering springs. I didn’t actually measure but from my eye-ruler I can’t actually tell there’s much of difference if any at all. So if it looks good it’s fine by me.

I started out with one rubber on each side and that gave decent results but I wanted just a little more. Because I couldn’t tell a difference in ride height I decided to just add another to each side. While I was under there I also did a fender screw delete mod.

I drove it street hard to test the setup. The rubbers stayed in place no issue. I also live in a city with terrible roads( thus the bottoming out anywhere that wasn’t decently paved) so they are definitely secure. With the fender screw and no more rubbing, it’s been a good day for suspension overall.

Based on other things mentioned in this thread and my own light research, My overall takeaway is that the b8 shocks are not as firm as I initially thought them to be, and they would be best paired with a lowering spring with more resistance/stiffer/firm. I think hammer sticks mentioned something about having great outcome with firm nuespeeds on the b8

As for me, I just got the springs and still fairly new to me so I’m going to keep them. Eventually I’ll look into the rubbers that wrapt around the coils, but for now I’m going to ride these $13 rubbers untill they fall off

Here’s a pic of my car just cause

 

[tigeo]

After getting the rubbers from advanced auto the bottoming out is greatly reduced

The method that @tigeo has suggested seems to be a success. I have progressive Eibach prokit and B8

Initially I was worried these would increase ride height (as they advertise) and kinda negate the point of lowering springs. I didn’t actually measure but from my eye-ruler I can’t actually tell there’s much of difference if any at all. So if it looks good it’s fine by me.

I started out with one rubber on each side and that gave decent results but I wanted just a little more. Because I couldn’t tell a difference in ride height I decided to just add another to each side. While I was under there I also did a fender screw delete mod.

I drove it street hard to test the setup. The rubbers stayed in place no issue. I also live in a city with terrible roads( thus the bottoming out anywhere that wasn’t decently paved) so they are definitely secure. With the fender screw and no more rubbing, it’s been a good day for suspension overall.

Based on other things mentioned in this thread and my own light research, My overall takeaway is that the b8 shocks are not as firm as I initially thought them to be, and they would be best paired with a lowering spring with more resistance/stiffer/firm. I think hammer sticks mentioned something about having great outcome with firm nuespeeds on the b8

As for me, I just got the springs and still fairly new to me so I’m going to keep them. Eventually I’ll look into the rubbers that wrapt around the coils, but for now I’m going to ride these $13 rubbers untill they fall off

Here’s a pic of my car just cause

Glad it worked out.

 

[GoatAutomotive]

After getting the rubbers from advanced auto the bottoming out is greatly reduced

The method that @tigeo has suggested seems to be a success. I have progressive Eibach prokit and B8

Initially I was worried these would increase ride height (as they advertise) and kinda negate the point of lowering springs. I didn’t actually measure but from my eye-ruler I can’t actually tell there’s much of difference if any at all. So if it looks good it’s fine by me.

I started out with one rubber on each side and that gave decent results but I wanted just a little more. Because I couldn’t tell a difference in ride height I decided to just add another to each side. While I was under there I also did a fender screw delete mod.

I drove it street hard to test the setup. The rubbers stayed in place no issue. I also live in a city with terrible roads( thus the bottoming out anywhere that wasn’t decently paved) so they are definitely secure. With the fender screw and no more rubbing, it’s been a good day for suspension overall.

Based on other things mentioned in this thread and my own light research, My overall takeaway is that the b8 shocks are not as firm as I initially thought them to be, and they would be best paired with a lowering spring with more resistance/stiffer/firm. I think hammer sticks mentioned something about having great outcome with firm nuespeeds on the b8

As for me, I just got the springs and still fairly new to me so I’m going to keep them. Eventually I’ll look into the rubbers that wrapt around the coils, but for now I’m going to ride these $13 rubbers untill they fall off

Here’s a pic of my car just cause

You hit the nail mostly on the head: 90% of the lowering springs designed for our cars have insufficient spring rate, and they lower the struts to the bottom of their travel. Meaning WAY too low to be truly useful on track or on rough roads.

EDD, H&R, APR, VWR, and others.

Neuspeed Sports have excellent rates but are also (still) SUPER low, compared to the ideal ride height and suspension stroke for a street car.

My H&R OE Sports were divine at first, but eventually settled a good 8-10mm lower than I want. Meaning what was a 2-finger gap is now closer to 1, which is purdy low for a 90% street car. They look slick, but I need more room for compression travel.

I am considering the Neuspeed RS3 springs or the 034 Motorsport offerings for the S3 and RS3. They have a MUCH heavier spring rate without being too punishing on the street. This would effectively be the poor man's solution to the $1200 Bilstein B14s, since I scored a screaming deal on my B8s, and can sell off the H&Rs to cover half the cost of the next springs.

The B8s are a brilliant damper when paired with the correct spring and ride height. They handled all the track abuse I threw at them. They control body motions sufficiently to allow the car to put the power down (even in 1st!), which is huge. Just add better springs.

This is the route I'm considering next year:

034 RS3 springs (non-MR): https://www.034motorsport.com/dynam...rs3-quattro-performance-lowering-springs.html

034 S3 springs (non-MR): https://www.034motorsport.com/dynamic-lowering-springs-for-8v-audi-a3-s3-non-magride.html

The last one has the PERFECT ride height for a street and track car that's actually driven hard.

Listed curb weight for the S3 is 3462lbs. My GTI is right at 3100-3150 before I get in it. So those springs on a GTI will sit a bit higher. How much, I can't say. Only one person so far has run these springs and it was on a GSW (wagon) w/4-motion, so the two were much closer in curb weights.

A 3350lb Golf R would be a perfect candidate for the S3 or RS3 springs above, given its heavier curb.

Listing this here not to hijack, but to help others considering the B8s and setting up an optimal suspension for under $1k.

Proper spring selection would negate the original post's need to adjust the internal bumpstops.

Hope this all makes sense in writing for the readers.

-the VW junkie

 

[tigeo]

Yes my buddy is running the RS3 springs with B8s on his 4Mo GSW and really is liking them. That's the move I think.

 

[AzteCypher]

Well... now I know which springs I need to get. I should wait till my bank account is happier though.

 

[tigeo]

You hit the nail mostly on the head: 90% of the lowering springs designed for our cars have insufficient spring rate, and they lower the struts to the bottom of their travel. Meaning WAY too low to be truly useful on track or on rough roads.

EDD, H&R, APR, VWR, and others.

Neuspeed Sports have excellent rates but are also (still) SUPER low, compared to the ideal ride height and suspension stroke for a street car.

My H&R OE Sports were divine at first, but eventually settled a good 8-10mm lower than I want. Meaning what was a 2-finger gap is now closer to 1, which is purdy low for a 90% street car. They look slick, but I need more room for compression travel.

I am considering the Neuspeed RS3 springs or the 034 Motorsport offerings for the S3 and RS3. They have a MUCH heavier spring rate without being too punishing on the street. This would effectively be the poor man's solution to the $1200 Bilstein B14s, since I scored a screaming deal on my B8s, and can sell off the H&Rs to cover half the cost of the next springs.

The B8s are a brilliant damper when paired with the correct spring and ride height. They handled all the track abuse I threw at them. They control body motions sufficiently to allow the car to put the power down (even in 1st!), which is huge. Just add better springs.

This is the route I'm considering next year:

034 RS3 springs (non-MR): https://www.034motorsport.com/dynam...rs3-quattro-performance-lowering-springs.html

034 S3 springs (non-MR): https://www.034motorsport.com/dynamic-lowering-springs-for-8v-audi-a3-s3-non-magride.html

The last one has the PERFECT ride height for a street and track car that's actually driven hard.

Listed curb weight for the S3 is 3462lbs. My GTI is right at 3100-3150 before I get in it. So those springs on a GTI will sit a bit higher. How much, I can't say. Only one person so far has run these springs and it was on a GSW (wagon) w/4-motion, so the two were much closer in curb weights.

A 3350lb Golf R would be a perfect candidate for the S3 or RS3 springs above, given its heavier curb.

Listing this here not to hijack, but to help others considering the B8s and setting up an optimal suspension for under $1k.

Proper spring selection would negate the original post's need to adjust the internal bumpstops.

Hope this all makes sense in writing for the readers.

-the VW junkie

Also keep in mind that modifying the internal B8 stops can also cause your overall combined spring rate to be lower and you will actually have a harsher ride. Another nice option would be a replacement bump stop that is a higher rate to increase the overall rate of the springs especially if you are on them at static ride height (would also raise the f. end a bit). Basically approach this with bump stop tuning vs. changing the springs themselves. Just another idea. Too bad the f. end is such a PITA to much with.

 

[HuntR]

These ‘rubbers’, do you just poke them in with the suspension drooped? I’ve never seen these before.

 

[tigeo]

These ‘rubbers’, do you just poke them in with the suspension drooped? I’ve never seen these before.

Yep...jack it up and stick it in. Two orientations.

 

[scrllock]

Keep in mind that if you're upping rate enough you might want to have the B8s re-valved. The 034 RS3 kit is about twice the rate on the eibach pro-kit rates they presumably had in mind.
More compression, for example, can help prevent bottoming-out on too low-riding/highly sprung cars.
Unfortunately most newer B8 shocks are crimped and can't be serviced, but some older ones, some PSS (if you can find a well-used B14/B16 kit) or other brands (H&R) usually can.

 

[GoatAutomotive]

Yes my buddy is running the RS3 springs with B8s on his 4Mo GSW and really is liking them. That's the move I think.

Is that our boy, Terrence S?

 

[DerHase]

I'll encourage you to take the car on track with stock springs and the upgraded dampers since that's free aside from your time.

Notice how much wheel travel gets used just going down the straights. And this is with F/R sway bars as well (I know you have both bars as well), stock front sway bar is even worse for anyone else looking.

I am curious about the RS3 springs but skeptical they'll still be properly damped.

 

[tigeo]

Watch this video from about 1:10 through about 2:00 compared to DerHases above. Lots of curbs. H&R Sport w/B8s. Mine looks rougher to me than his likely due to less bump travel/more progressive end-of-travel impact of the jounces over the curbs.

Per DerHase's comment - look at the straight at Dominon...BUMPY! You can see it both on-car and in-car.

 

[tigeo]

After getting the rubbers from advanced auto the bottoming out is greatly reduced

The method that @tigeo has suggested seems to be a success. I have progressive Eibach prokit and B8

Initially I was worried these would increase ride height (as they advertise) and kinda negate the point of lowering springs. I didn’t actually measure but from my eye-ruler I can’t actually tell there’s much of difference if any at all. So if it looks good it’s fine by me.

I started out with one rubber on each side and that gave decent results but I wanted just a little more. Because I couldn’t tell a difference in ride height I decided to just add another to each side. While I was under there I also did a fender screw delete mod.

I drove it street hard to test the setup. The rubbers stayed in place no issue. I also live in a city with terrible roads( thus the bottoming out anywhere that wasn’t decently paved) so they are definitely secure. With the fender screw and no more rubbing, it’s been a good day for suspension overall.

Based on other things mentioned in this thread and my own light research, My overall takeaway is that the b8 shocks are not as firm as I initially thought them to be, and they would be best paired with a lowering spring with more resistance/stiffer/firm. I think hammer sticks mentioned something about having great outcome with firm nuespeeds on the b8

As for me, I just got the springs and still fairly new to me so I’m going to keep them. Eventually I’ll look into the rubbers that wrapt around the coils, but for now I’m going to ride these $13 rubbers untill they fall off

Here’s a pic of my car just cause

Note. I just replaced mine. They were pretty smooshed and not staying tight so they do have a finite lifespan. Easy enough with 4 for $13 at the Advance Auto.

 

[tigeo]

Here's the two used one (right) and two new ones (left). Ride quality is better with the new ones for sure.